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1050 parts tractor no more

671 Views 20 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Dave in NY
Because I’ve decided it’s going to live again. The 10D engine had been replaced with an S8D at some point and the PTO is gone, but it rolls, the engine spins freely, and it “ran when parked.” I’ll put the plow or box grader on it perpetually and make it work. I used the G9-turned-1050 to drag it out.









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Another tube frame tractor going to brought back to life and put back to work. I like it! Tractor looks like it's worth the effort. I would do it for sure. I've got a TRA-10D motor out here you probably could convince me to part with. Got an S8D sitting that I have no immediate use for too. Just sayin'. Hopefully your motor is good though. Looking forward to following your project!
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Gonna need 4 tires and a battery for sure. Maybe could find some decent used tires for it? They can be found for a reasonable price if you look long enough.
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Gonna need 4 tires and a battery for sure. Maybe could find some decent used tires for it? They can be found for a reasonable price if you look long enough.
I’m definitely not planning on sinking much money at all into this thing. I’d already pulled the S/G a while ago to keep inside, so I’ll take it apart for R&R. I have a set of turf tires that originally came on my G9 that will go on this, and I think my dad still has the original front tires from his ‘61 Cub that I’ll be able to “borrow” for this one (it has the 6” wide front tires). I think the air filter off one of my spare Briggs with an updraft carb should fit instead of this vintage model. I can spin the motor by hand which is promising (perhaps too promising).



Both throttle and choke cables are completely frozen, but I have spares for both.


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TRA10D and S8D are the same other than the carb, Crankshaft and Connecting rod. Piston and rings are the same. Camshaft and valves are the same as well.

TRA10-D Crankshaft is Winsonsin part # CA-84 and connecting rod is Wisconsin Part # DA-77-S1.

S8D Crankshaft is Wisconsin part # CA-82 and connecting rod is Wisconsin part # DA-83A-S1.

All you need is a good used TRA-10D crank and a new rod. Do not accidentally get a TR-10D crank, they are different.

Occasionally a NOS connecting rod will pop up forsale on Ebay. I bought 1 for $25 when I refreshed the engine in my old Bolens 1053.
Here is a CA-84 crank that might be usable? Bolens 1054 Tube Frame Tractor Wisconsin TRA-10D Engine Crankshaft | eBay

I have a used DA-77 connecting rod but it has some light to moderate scoring on the big end journal. It would clean up with a little emery cloth but it would probably be out of spec. IMO It's a wall hanger unless I get really desperate lol.
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TRA10D and S8D are the same other than the carb, Crankshaft and Connecting rod. Piston and rings are the same. Camshaft and valves are the same as well.
They use different pistons. The TRA-10D uses a DB-230-1, while the S-8D (and TR-10D) uses a DB-230 (no -1). The latest connecting rod for the TRA-10D is a DA-83 (no A).
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They use different pistons. The TRA-10D uses a DB-230-1, while the S-8D (and TR-10D) uses a DB-230 (no -1). The latest connecting rod for the TRA-10D is a DA-83 (no A).
Must have slightly different wrist pin location?

There are a BUNCH of DA-83A 10,20,30 rods on ebay very cheap but not a single DA-83. Be careful and look at the pictures of the actual connecting rods. Every one of them that I looked at has the A.

The connecting rod that I pulled out of my TRA-10D is a DA-77. I think that the replacement rod that I got off of ebay for my TRA10D was a DA-83. I kept the original box for it but I think it's up in the shop. I got it for $20 plus shipping.

The blocks are identical. If you can get a CA-84 crank and DA-77 or DA-83 connecting rod and a DB-230-1 Piston you can convert an S8D to a TRA-10D.

Wish that I had a chart with the newest part numbers. Trying to find NOS parts with the older part numbers leads to dead end searches quite often.


Wisconsin engines are my favorite. I picked up these from an auction 16 or 17 years ago. Can't remember exactly when. They are dated September 1980 and they show technical specs of all Wisconsin engines up until 81. These came from an old Wisconsin engine dealer that had closed down many years ago. They would have been under a piece of glass on the counter. I plan on having them professionally cleaned and framed as soon as I get ahead of my bills some time this year hopefully. They will look awesome Framed and hanging up in my shop. They are made of Vinyl. They are still ply-able but are getting a bit brittle. They were folded up in one of the old Binders that I bought.

I know a fella that is really good at cleaning and restoring old Vinyl prints but he is a bit pricey. Actually it might be cheaper to have him scan them and print out new ones but they are only Original once. I've seen some some amazing stuff come out of his Vinyl printing/cutting shop over the years. He's really good.












I have parts and service manuals for quite a few small engines, Including a fairly rare Kohler K7-2 and K12-2 shop/service/parts manual printed in September of 1956. That thing is really really neat. The illustrations in it are IMO works of art that any small engine nut would enjoy looking at. Most of my parts and service manuals are quite old.



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I can't remember the part numbers as I sit here, but I remember there being a difference in the piston skirt between some of pistons. The shorter stroke motors had a full skirt piston and the longer stroke motors had the skirt scalloped to allow clearance for the crankshaft counterweights. I believe 29 Chev had some experience with that when he rebuilt a motor for his 1053 tractor back some time ago. At least that's what I remember from following his thread about the project. If you watch eBay you will notice at times there is an abundant supply of used and/or NOS Wisconsin parts and at times there is hardly anything.
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Thanks for all the details on the differences between the Wisconsin engines. However, if the S8D doesn't first make spark, then make noise with ether, it's most likely going into the corner of my barn to collect dust, as I don't want to throw good money after bad. A 16hp Honda clone is only $500, and would probably serve better. The S8D spins freely, perhaps too freely. Don't get me wrong, I prefer old flathead engines vs. today's OHV engines, but things like air filter assembly, exhaust, carb rebuild kit/rebuilt carb, breaker points cover, engine gaskets, points/condenser quickly add up to a good portion of a new engine, and that's before even getting in to the internals. I'd need to read through @29 Chev 's thread on his honda repower to see what how much I'd be nickel-dimed on that; the hood on this one is in surprisingly great condition [with the exception of the hinge area due to the scissoring support rod never having been hooked up to the hood (but is bolted to the cylinder head)], so don't worry, I won't be cutting in to it.

But, that's down the road. I have to power-wash the machine, pull it inside and see where the engine is at before deciding on a plan.
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Dave is correct. Here's a picture of a DB230-1 that I have.


There are quite a few part numbers for connecting rods. For the TRA-10D & TRA-12D, there's DA-77, DA-80, DA-81 & DA-83. For the S-7D, S-8D & TR-10D, there's DA-73C-4, DA-77A, DA-80A, DA-81A & DA-83A. I'm not sure what the difference is between them, they look the same to my untrained eyes. However all of the DA-83s I've seen appear to have been modified from DA-83As. The A is always ground off.
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Not to tell you what to do here, and you quite possibly know this already. Put some ATF or motor oil , snake oil, whale oil, etc. down the spark plug hole and get the rings lubed up again before you try to start it. I had an S8D that wanted to blow blue smoke when I first started using it. I poured some Marvel Mystery Oil ( snake oil ) in the crankcase and gas tank too, and worked it fairly hard. The more I ran it and the harder I worked it the better it ran. The blue smoke disappeared too. I figured the rings were stuck or sticky. Probably from taking a long nap ( several years maybe ) before I put it back to work. Just my 3 cents.
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Not to tell you what to do here, and you quite possibly know this already. Put some ATF or motor oil , snake oil, whale oil, etc. down the spark plug hole and get the rings lubed up again before you try to start it. I had an S8D that wanted to blow blue smoke when I first started using it. I poured some Marvel Mystery Oil ( snake oil ) in the crankcase and gas tank too, and worked it fairly hard. The more I ran it and the harder I worked it the better it ran. The blue smoke disappeared too. I figured the rings were stuck or sticky. Probably from taking a long nap ( several years maybe ) before I put it back to work. Just my 3 cents.
Thanks! MMO is much more than snake oil, it freed up the locked up M10 engine in this E21 BMW that I dragged home a few years ago. The car had been sitting outside, hood open, for 17 years. I couldn't turn the engine with a breaker bar, but a week's soak in MMO had her spinning easily!


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The debate over various additives ( snake oil in some people's opinion ) has been going on for years and likely will for many years going forward. I have a can of MMO on a shelf and occasionally will put some in a crankcase or fuel tank, depending on the situation. It sure doesn't seem to make anything worse. Based on what I have experienced it seemed to help. Possibly the same amount of ATF would accomplish the same thing? Not sure. My 3 cents worth was, just get something down the spark plug hole to lube up the piston and rings. It sure won't hurt anything.
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Food for thought. If you decide to do a repower look for a tractor for sale cheap on the classifieds that has bad tires, or rusted out mowing deck, or a bad transaxle, etc. etc. that has a suitable donor motor. A single cylinder Kohler Command and the V-twin B&S Vanguards will fit under a tube frame hood nicely. People often will sell the "junk" tractor for cheap or even give them away free just to be rid of it. Would be a low cost source for a transplant motor. Just try to not get one with mega hours on it. I currently have my eyes and ears open for just such a deal as I am considering another tractor project. That's a maybe though.
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Food for thought. If you decide to do a repower look for a tractor for sale cheap on the classifieds that has bad tires, or rusted out mowing deck, or a bad transaxle, etc. etc. that has a suitable donor motor. A single cylinder Kohler Command and the V-twin B&S Vanguards will fit under a tube frame hood nicely. People often will sell the "junk" tractor for cheap or even give them away free just to be rid of it. Would be a low cost source for a transplant motor. Just try to not get one with mega hours on it. I currently have my eyes and ears open for just such a deal as I am considering another tractor project. That's a maybe though.
Yessir, I'm open to options. I peruse CL for machines or stand-alone engines, but in my area, I'm seeing old Wisconsins that don't run for >$200, and not even that close to where I live. No thanks.

But again, I don't even know where I'm at with this machine. It's still sitting where I left it until I can get spare tires under it to easily roll it. I'd never intended this thing to move on its own, but yet here we are. :)
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Here in my area I typically watch for 2000/3000 series Cub Cadets as we have 2 dealerships within about 20 miles and Cubs are very popular.They are somewhere in the ballpark of 20 years old or more now and many of them are still in use, and naturally a fair amount have developed issues because of age, rough treatment, poor maintenance, etc. I scored a 18hp. Kohler V-twin motor with a bit over 600 hours on it from a tractor that had a bad transaxle, bad tires and some electrical gremlins. The owner had decided to part it out and I just happened to be the person that got there first. Got the motor, heat shield, exhaust system and majority of the wiring harness with the key switch. The motor now has a happy home under the hood of my H14. Did quite a bit of modification to parts of the exhaust, heat shield and wiring harness but it was nice to have donor material to adapt to fit my needs. At lot less expensive than having to source those items individually new or used. Hey, I'm frugal ( cheap ) just how it is. LOL
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Dave, I love your area. I lived several years in Geneseo. Where I am now suffers from downstate markup. My local power supply shop stocks NOS parts for many of my old machines, from inventory they've had collecting dust since tube frames were new, but can be pricey. He’s got a field of dead machines taken on trade; I was looking at an old Snapper RER that may run but missing a front spindle but he wants $250.

This old Economy really caught my eye and I really want it, but check out the price….





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That seems a bit steep for the Economy.
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I like this quieter rural area myself too. I’m old enough now where the slower paced small town life is A-ok with me. I have enough projects that I am seldom bored. Life is good!
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That seems a bit steep for the Economy.
Just a tad, like an entire order of magnitude in my book. Don’t even know of it runs.


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