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1253 6 speed Replacing clutch and driveshaft bearings

425 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  29 Chev, 
G
Operation was very noisy so I decided to replace the bearings.
1 The front driveshaft bearing is straight forward, although what I took out had only one bearing flange (1185588) and the replacement I ordered has two. It’s held in by regular bolts and nuts but the original appears to be designed for carriage bolts.
2 The driveshaft bearing retainer (1714639) appears to be held in place under spring pressure on one end and the clutch assembly screws on to the threaded driveshaft at the other end. I‘m hoping that taking an accurate measure of the current length of the threaded end will assure me of returning the assembly to the existing state? It’s working well now as adjusted.
3 I am assuming the needle bearings in the clutch/pulley assembly are a simple press out/press in?
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B
Two # 1185588 bearing flanges are used on your tractor.

Yes, the needle bearings in the clutch pulley press in. ....One side of the needle bearing shell is usually radiused to aid installation.

The driveshaft bearing retainer is held in place by the clutch yokes.

I assume you already have the Parts Manual? Bolens 1253 Parts List
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Bruce Dorsi said:
Two # 1185588 bearing flanges are used on your tractor.

Yes, the needle bearings in the clutch pulley press in. ....One side of the needle bearing shell is usually radiused to aid installation.

The driveshaft bearing retainer is held in place by the clutch yokes.

I assume you already have the Parts Manual? Bolens 1253 Parts List
Click to expand...
I do thanks. I also have a repair manual but when it comes to the #179 (1717240) it just says “remove” from the drive shaft. Since I’ve taken off the large nut, washer and lock washer, support bearing and flanges, and bearing support I’m assuming that the clutch flange #201 (1716598) and everything forward of it up to the big spring and pin should just come off the shaft? It’s probably stuck from time, corrosion etc?
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29 Chev
This thread may be of interest to you - Bolens Tube Frame 1050, 1053, etc. Driveshaft And Clutch...

If you have removed the forward clutch plate that is threaded onto the end of the driveshaft be careful as the belt pulley and rear clutch plate which is splined may be under spring pressure that could release at any moment if something is binding. This could result in the pulley moving quickly forward off the end of the shaft and ending up on the floor possibly getting damaged or fingers getting smacked by the pulley if it releases and moves suddenly.
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29 Chev said:
This thread may be of interest to you - Bolens Tube Frame 1050, 1053, etc. Driveshaft And Clutch...

If you have removed the forward clutch plate that is threaded onto the end of the driveshaft be careful as the belt pulley and rear clutch plate which is splined may be under spring pressure that could release at any moment if something is binding. This could result in the pulley moving quickly forward off the end of the shaft and ending up on the floor possibly getting damaged or fingers getting smacked by the pulley if it releases and moves suddenly.
Click to expand...
Thanks. You and the 1053 article with pics answered my question if the clutch plate was threaded. Indeed it is and I’ll proceed. When removing it I’ll try to make sure the other components are releasing also. Thank you.
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G
Nearly ready to reassemble. Just painting parts now. I’ll post more details later. Parts were supplied by Bolens Parts and some were sourced online. I am overhauling a PTO at the same time. I’ll mention those parts as well.
I did some work (undid some creative addition) to the battery tray as removal made it easier to get at a bolt.
Had to buy a new bearing puller and a new set of snap ring pliers.

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G
Just about ready to put parts back in the tractor. I guess I don’t understand the basic mechanics of the clutch activation. All put together everything is very tight and the clutch spring is nearly collapsed. Guess I’ll find out when I put it in. Any input?
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29 Chev
Greenyonline said:
I guess I don’t understand the basic mechanics of the clutch activation. All put together everything is very tight and the clutch spring is nearly collapsed. Guess I’ll find out when I put it in. Any input?
Click to expand...
Looks about right - the clutch is fairly basic other than the release bearing runs continuously whenever the drive shaft is turning which is whenever the engine is turning if the clutch pedal is not depressed. Make sure you adjust the brake plate and the brake arm contact as described in the service manual and leave the front bearing bolts loose until the shaft is installed so the two halves can self align on the bearing. When the clutch pedal begins to depress the release bearing will move the rear part of the clutch plate backwards compressing the spring on the shaft enough so that the pulley friction surfaces are no longer engaged wit the clutch plates allowing the driveshaft to begin to slow down. The backside of the rear clutch plate then engages with the brake plate which is spring tensioned on two pins. As the clutch pedal travel continues to be pressed the driveshaft stops rotating due to the brake plate and the brake plate moves rearward as the brake arm engages with the brake drum on the transmission output shaft stopping the tractor and the shafts inside the transmission. This allows for the gears to be shifted without gear grinding as the engine rotates the driveshaft pulley which is turning on the two roller bearings and the sleeve between the two clutch plates while the clutch is disengaged. Then when the clutch pedal is released the pulley friction discs engage with the two clutch plate surfaces and the driveshaft turns moving the tractor if the gear shift is not in neutral. I assume the spring, washer and bowed washer were in good shape as well as the sleeve the needle bearings run on. Check for any wear at the clutch fork pin and where any of the linkages and bushings pivot as any wear will result in excess travel of the clutch pedal to engage and disengage the clutch making adjusting things a challenge. Hope this makes sense to you.
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