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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was moving CloudBurst IV around today, and noticed that the steering isn't all that great.

Now, it's the one with the widened stance, so I guess that is part of the problem.

However, it just seemed to be "unresponsive' at first, and then starts to turn.

I'm wondering if there is a toe in/toe out spec for it?

I checked the Tube Frame Service Manual, and there doesn't seen to be anything in there that addresses it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I know that the adjustment is there...

I just wonder if there are any specs on what they should be.
 

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I'm wondering if there is a toe in/toe out spec for it?

I checked the Tube Frame Service Manual, and there doesn't seen to be anything in there that addresses it.
I have never seen a spec for toe from Bolens. ....I would say zero toe-out. ...Straight ahead (zero out-zero in), or up to 1/8" toe-in should be satisfactory.

Is there play in the steering linkage? ....There should be minimal free-play in the steering wheel before the front wheels move.

Worn wheel bearings, loose spindles, loose steering arms, worn ball joints, worn steering gears, and even broken roll pins can all add to free play in the steering, and lose steering response.
 

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I was moving CloudBurst IV around today, and noticed that the steering isn't all that great.

Now, it's the one with the widened stance, so I guess that is part of the problem.

However, it just seemed to be "unresponsive' at first, and then starts to turn.

I'm wondering if there is a toe in/toe out spec for it?

I checked the Tube Frame Service Manual, and there doesn't seen to be anything in there that addresses it.
i know there is adjustment on the thing on the steering Coulomb thats like the rack and pinion also the roll pins if they get worn drill them out and put 3/8 roll pin or a grd 8 bolt also sonnys sells a front end bushing kit but i would say its worn linkages and the steering arms wear out i get them cut off and turn them on a lathe then tap then with a 1/2 nf die then screw on new ball joints that have GREASE fittings also it there is alot of play in the front axle they will drive all over the place and the toe in and out i use 2 2x6 planks and lay them flush beside the wheels then take measurements on each end of the plank and adjust if necessary
cheers
8tyman8
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There isn't that much 'slop' in the steering.

It just seems like there is some 'lag' in response from the time the wheels move until it starts turning.

I may still have the controlled diff knob cranked in, and that might have something to do with it.

I'll have to check that once I get it running again.
 

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There isn't that much 'slop' in the steering.

It just seems like there is some 'lag' in response from the time the wheels move until it starts turning.

I may still have the controlled diff knob cranked in, and that might have something to do with it.

I'll have to check that once I get it running again.
yeh some times the cone thats a tapper fit gets stuck in it happens on my 1456 quite abit the best way i have found to get it unstuck in drive backwards and swerve all over the place it works pretty good also it may be worth taking the cone out and applying some grease the the bore and that shaft to stop it from getting stuck
cheers
8tyman8
 
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