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Recently finished up a pretty extensive refurb on my 1650 with one thing eluding me - the looseness in the couplings/splined drive shaft. The one at the flywheel was OK but the two on the back shaft were sloppy, especially at the pump. Have read many of the posts re this and the scarcity of parts I was getting worried, but kept digging and found out about the couplings that Surplus Center had and ordered me up 3 of them (reasonable price too, $13!)

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shaft-Couplers/1-Piece-Solid-Couplers/3-4--11-Tooth-Splined-Coupling-1-2985.axd

They helped but with the wear on the shaft splines I still had a fair amount of looseness. The new coupler was quite a bit 'beefier' than the originals so I decided to add 3 set screws at the contact points, and it helped -- for about an hour. Two had worked out and lost, and 3-4 more were loose. I rigged up a hex head adapter to a 3/8 ratchet to get them tighter, and it did that -- this time for about 2-3 hrs and were again loose. This time I screwed them with loctite (I was hesitant to do that in case I needed to remove them) but with the loctite and really bearing down tightening them they are apparently holding this time. I believe it would be better to use a bolt, maybe Grade 8 so you could get a socket/wrench on them to really get them tight.

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Tractorholic
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672 Posts
Can see why it fails. There is no way to get the two units each end of the shaft whatever they are perfectly aligned. A flex joint or u-joint at each end of the shaft would overcome that shortfall.

Garry
 

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nice looking tractor. I had a MF 1655 for years and it also had the sloppy coupler next to the pump. I did what you did and bought the beefier couplers as well.

To get rid of the sloppyness I did something like you did with the 3 extra set screws. I also did something else. I used some JB weld on the splines on the pump and also on the inside of the coupler. I first wrapped saran wrap on the pumps slpines then put some of the mixed up JB weld over top of the saran wrap. I also put some JB weld inside the coupler and slowly put them together.Tightened up the 3 set screws and left it set for 24 hrs. It stayed tight untill I had to remove the shaft. I did the same thing again when I reinstalled it. Off course I made sure that when I tightened up the set screws I spun the shaft to make sure it was as true as I could get it.

It worked fine this way for many years.Hope this gives you another idea what you can do with yours.
 

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Tractorholic
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As far as keeping the set screws tight , either get shorter ones and use 2 in each hole 2nd as a jam nut , other way go longer that the treads stick out and use a regular nut as a jam nut
 

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I had the same issue with my Bolens. I used the same spline to repair the coupling to the hydrostatic unit on my 1256. I made the flange and welded the spline coupling to it. Works perfect.
 
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