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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the Massy World - I'm a Cub guy from way back.
I was very fortunate to inherit a couple Massey tractors a few years ago and I'm looking to turn the parts tractor into a loader tractor. I have a D662 Kubota engine from a G1700 to put into the frame of the 1450. Plan is to extend it to give me the room I need for the engine and battery and possibly the fuel tank as well.
My question is - what direction should/does the hydro turn on the 1450? The D662 is a CCW rotation. It currently sits in the G1700 with the rad facing back of tractor/flywheel is to the front. However, I'd like to turn it around and have the rad facing the front as it should.
I noticed in another post someone putting a loader on one of the 50 series tractors was encouraged to have a seperate pump to run the loader with an aux oil tank for it. That was my intention as well as I don't need a mower deck on this tractor.
Any help would be appreciated!
 

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The 1450 came with a Kohler 14 HP. Drive line was attached to the flywheel end and the Kohler turns CW so that makes the hydro a CCW unit from what I can find.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The 1450 came with a Kohler 14 HP. Drive line was attached to the flywheel end and the Kohler turns CW so that makes the hydro a CCW unit from what I can find.
Morning KennyP
Thank you for the answer - however I'm confused though. If the flywheel end is towards the back of tractor (assuming it is the same as the Kohler that is in my 782 Cub), were does it transform the hydro into a CCW rotation? I didn't think there were any change over of shafts. Was it not a direct drive line from the engine to the hydro? I'm not complaining about your answer at all - just making sure I understand and I don't mess up the hydro.
o_O
 

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With the Kohler being in with the flywheel toward the rear, looking from the front of the tractor direction will be CCW. From the rear of the tractor it is CW.
 
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That sounds right to me, not into MF tractors.
 

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The bottom line is ----- that Sundstrand will have to turn CCW. I just went and ckd my Wheel horse hyd and my MF 1650 hydro and both turn CCW at the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The bottom line is ----- that Sundstrand will have to turn CCW. I just went and ckd my Wheel horse hyd and my MF 1650 hydro and both turn CCW at the input.
Just found the transmission manuals section of this site.... what model should be in the Massey 1450 model? I can't seem to find the picture I thought I had taken with the numbers off it. DUH!
Might be lucky enough that there is a manual posted here for my hydro unit.
 

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Sundstrand is the hydro in your 1450
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sundstrand is the hydro in your 1450
Do you happen to know what model they should have/did put in the 1450's? Anything funky about them? I have that Sunstrand in my 982 if I remember correctly, knock on wood I haven't had any issue with it other than needing to replace the two relief valves on the top when I bought it. I'm getting the feeling they are kind of bullet proof?
 

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Don't know the model.
 

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If you look closely at the face plate at the input shaft it will have LH & RH stamped on it; whichever is facing up is the direction it turns, Should be be CCW when you're facing the shaft. (looking towards the rear end.)
 

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Yeah, I dont "Know?" what hyd supposed to be in it but most likely that Sundstrand was original. changing the hyd drive would be a pretty good challenge. I Know the WH used Eatons in some of their models.....

The Sundstrand is pretty tough, but with anything getting into 40+ yrs of service they can and will give some problems. Generally they will 'slip' under load -- A common phrase used when a person is looking at a tractor with hyd is to "butt the tractor against a tree and if it wont spin the tires then its got problems" They can usually be 'rebuilt' --- maybe "restored" is better, there are some parts out there. but are limited.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, I dont "Know?" what hyd supposed to be in it but most likely that Sundstrand was original. changing the hyd drive would be a pretty good challenge. I Know the WH used Eatons in some of their models.....

The Sundstrand is pretty tough, but with anything getting into 40+ yrs of service they can and will give some problems. Generally they will 'slip' under load -- A common phrase used when a person is looking at a tractor with hyd is to "butt the tractor against a tree and if it wont spin the tires then its got problems" They can usually be 'rebuilt' --- maybe "restored" is better, there are some parts out there. but are limited.
I guess that would be a test for it! Never really thought of doing it that way. Guess I'm one of these guys who likes to keep my tractors away from trees. :LOL:

I'm hoping it is still good and that I don't have to do anything to it except change the oil out and filter? I did notice there is a little pit of play in the input shaft, I can move it about 1/8" front to back - hoping this is normal???
I need to find a new end for my hyd leaver assembly on the Massey though. Noticed yesterday when I moved the hyd leaver, the spring at the back end moved which made me notice there wasn't a back cover bolted on it anymore. Hopefully the local hyd shop can find me a cover at a decent price? Will need to see if anything else was robbed off the hyd system too.

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If you look closely at the face plate at the input shaft it will have LH & RH stamped on it; whichever is facing up is the direction it turns, Should be be CCW when you're facing the shaft. (looking towards the rear end.)
Ignore this, this is true for the bigger transaxle in the 1655-1855 the Sunstrand 15 yours should be the HT90. Sorry
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got looking at the hydro on the 1650 I have - it has the LH & RH stamped in the input shaft cover. Think it was LH that was facing up on it. Didn't pay that much attention to it - was out there robbing the coupler off it to find out the proper size for the input shaft spine. I'm guessing Hub City is the place to get these couplers from?
 

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Thats the 3/4" 11 tooth spline?? Surplus Center has them for $12.65. If you gonna need a shaft ..... well, that is almost a certain -- 'unobtanium!' When I got mine 2-3yrs ago the shafts were seriously loose. and I pretty quickly found the coupler, but he shaft, uh uh, not happening. I ordered up the couplings and since the replacements were a good bit larger than original I added 3 set screws on each end which got ... most? of the slop out. I now check them regularly and snug to make sure they are always tight.

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3/4"-11 Tooth Splined Coupling G & G Mfg 99920000
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