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1618 gravel driveway maintenance

459 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  MNGB
One of the growing tasks for my little king is to maintain the gravel driveway. It's a couple hundred feet and a parking area. I'm wanting to be able to dragged up the gravel as it gets hard packed so it lasts longer between having to add material.

Drag harrow: seems like a good option, but will it be aggressive enough?

Land plane: maybe more tough to keep it from creating ripples or edges, but scarifiers should be plenty aggressive I'd think.

Box blade: like a land plane, but would work for moving material... If I catch too much material, am I going to run out of traction.

This is my dilemma. None of these I consider cheap (I'd want a chain drag harrow with the 3pt attachment). I've never used any of these so I'm needing some guidance.
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I have tried a blade, cultivator, landscape rake, and several homemades. The landscape rake works best to break up the gravel. The blade works best to move the gravel and shape the road. And all will work to do the final smooth. You need to add weight to the landscape rake to get it to dig in. Expect to make several passes to break up the gravel to a sufficient depth. Switch to the blade to move the gravel to the middle of the driveway and crown if desired. To smooth out the gravel, reverse the blade, or landscape rake, even drag a section of chain-link fence. Many things will work. When grading the parking area, you will cut deeper on the inside of the turn, or maybe it is the other way around. I forget. Anyway, the set of your instrument will change in a turn from the set you had when pulling straight.

Don Hayes
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I have a driveway that had some really deep ruts in it

two years ago I used a cheap rototiller to chew up some of the high spots until I blew the engine (previous owner did NOT torque the con-rod bolts properly during the rebuild)

I was unmotivated last year and did nothing

this year (last weekend) I went to do more work, and the driveway was covered with weeds, I still used a walk behind tractor with a quacker point cultivator to tear up the first 3-5 inches until I was overcome with sunburn/dehydration.

i think it worked well, it looked and felt a lot flatter, but I was not able to do more. I also have a snowplow blade I was going to use to grade the surface, and then I was going to use the combo to flatten out some root balls on the edge of my lawn

next time I am up I am taking the weed sprayer and other tools to see how it looks, might have to wait for a few rainstorms to see how well it washes the dirt away from the gravel

my current investment is about half of what it would cost for a truckload of washed gravel, which I might buy anyway as I have to raise the roadbed about 6 inches, unless I find gravel in the raised shoulder (which i think I might)
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I'll start looking into the rakes. Seems like a pretty good option, especially considering the traction concern. Granted, I do have the turf tires. They're dry rotted so eventually I may try fitting some wider rims/tires. The front skinnies sink into the ground terribly so I'll be on the lookout for wider there too. Looks like I'll need to be creative with the rim offset or they'll hit the tie rod piece.
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If you choose a rake, think about the width you want. With a longer rake, you can angle the rake and reach out beyond your tires and pull some material to the middle. Rakes do not pull material in as well as blades. A lot of material filters between the tines. Also, with more tines, you need more extra weight to get the tines to dig in. You can over power your tractor and/or hydraulics with a rake too large. MNGB made his own rake and can give you some pointers. I keep my rake square and use a long blade to pull the edges in. Seems to work better for me. If you add gauge wheels for final smoothing, you will need to use a floating top link.

Don
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I know I want at least a 5' so I can angle it while keeping the shadow wider than the wheels, but I'm interested how you utilize the long blade... Might be something I want to look into as well.

I just saw MNGBs rake and it doesn't look too bad to make. @MNGB did you buy the tines and use a little angle iron and flat stock? All I'm seeing online these days are $900+ for quality or super cheap ATV versions for $400, give or take. I'm surprised by the price vs other attachments I've seen.
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I know I want at least a 5' so I can angle it while keeping the shadow wider than the wheels, but I'm interested how you utilize the long blade... Might be something I want to look into as well.

I just saw MNGBs rake and it doesn't look too bad to make. @MNGB did you buy the tines and use a little angle iron and flat stock? All I'm seeing online these days are $900+ for quality or super cheap ATV versions for $400, give or take. I'm surprised by the price vs other attachments I've seen.
Yes I bought the tines from Agri Supply 2-Hole Landscape Rake Tine
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Really great info..thanks guys!
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If you choose a rake, think about the width you want. With a longer rake, you can angle the rake and reach out beyond your tires and pull some material to the middle. Rakes do not pull material in as well as blades. A lot of material filters between the tines. Also, with more tines, you need more extra weight to get the tines to dig in. You can over power your tractor and/or hydraulics with a rake too large. MNGB made his own rake and can give you some pointers. I keep my rake square and use a long blade to pull the edges in. Seems to work better for me. If you add gauge wheels for final smoothing, you will need to use a floating top link.

Don
sounds like you just made a cultivator from scratch

or maybe a ground scarifier
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Curlymurt,

I don't have a grader blade for the Power King, so I use the big tractor for that after I break up the gravel. The grader blade only turns to 30 degrees so gravel was flowing off the toe and the blade was not long enough to reach beyond the tires. I fixed that by replacing the 6 foot blade with an 8 foot blade and rigging a latch that would hold the blade approximately 45 degrees. The blade protrudes 1.5 feet beyond the frame and is far enough out I can grab material and bring it to the center of the road. The pitch is near vertical and the toe is slightly lower than the rear which helps develop a crown. To smooth the gravel, I reverse the blade, set the angle to 30 degrees, set the pitch so the edge is pointing to the rear and the blade is either level or the toe slightly lower still. It smooths better than the reversed landscape rake. I don't use the 8 foot blade for anything heavy.

For your job, if you bought or made a landscape rake, you could bolt a grader blade to the tines. And use that to move and smooth the gravel. Or you could get a grader blade and figure out how to add the scarifiers. I have seen old hand made graders using parallel 8 X 8s framed about 2 feet apart with cutter and rebar scarifiers on one side and flip it over for smoothing. It was pulled by rope or chain so you could set the angle. You could make a land-plane, but it is probably too much for the Power King.

Just some thoughts.

Don Hayes
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I come across some concrete form stakes every now and again, and I just took out a welded metal railing... The type you'd see leading up to a municipal building. I've been debating trying to weld those things together to come up with a sort of scarifier/rake. I've got a 3 point triangle that I could rig it to in order to raise and lower it. My engineering/design mind isn't really functioning, nor is having time to do it.
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I have seen old hand made graders using parallel 8 X 8s framed about 2 feet apart with cutter and rebar scarifiers on one side and flip it over for smoothing. It was pulled by rope or chain so you could set the angle.
my dad had one of those, made with 12" logs I didn't know they were so common
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Curlymurt,

I found a link to the drag I was thinking about. This might give you some ideas when you make yours. The drag does not have scarifiers, but they are easy enough to add. Obviously the man added weight, but where he moved on the drag made it cut and scrape differently. This type drag may work better being dragged rather than hooked to a 3-point. Either way, adding chains or a length of chain-linked fence to the rear may smooth the gravel out better so everything is done in one pass.


Don Hayes
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A DR power grader also works good for maintaining gravel roads, I built my own a few years ago and it worked good and it will work behind my PK's which I didn't have when I built the power grader
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