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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First thanks to all who made suggestions and their patience while I looked for the problem with my hydro transmission problems.

From the previous posts you all have gleaned I narrowed down the problem to the hydro itself, and the one I swapped into the 1655 will work for the short term but its input shaft splines are worn and its not a long term solution.

I have the original hydro at home and now I need some answers to questions. I am attaching 2 photos, the first proves the shaft that controls the brake portion is missing a pin that may or may not go into the swashplate. The second photo is from the parts manual showing what I can conclude is bad .

Here go the questions

Is the #30 pin a spring roll pin or hardened pin?
Is it better to disassemble the unit from the input end or differential end to replace the pin?
Is there a supplier for gaskets and any other parts?
If the unit is disassembled from the differential end are there special precautions or warnings that I should take notice of?
Do I need to tear the entire unit down to inspect for damage or just tear down to the pin and replace?

Any idea why this pin would have sheared off?

And for the $ 2.00 question how lucky am I going to be (not knowing how long this tractor was operated in this condition) to find no damage internally from this sheared pin?

Ok bang away at me its early and I would like to think I am strong enough to handle the brutality of the candid answers. Nope not selling it yet :smile1:
 

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I wish I could help you out but I haven't had a Sundstrand hydro apart yet. I have had the Eaton 11 apart that was in my old Snapper I sold. I know there are a few guys on here that have had them apart and can help you out.
 

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NUTNDUN said:
I wish I could help you out but I haven't had a Sundstrand hydro apart yet.
Same here,but someone will be along.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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I'm chopping silage today, so stops in here are short. A reply to this will take time & thought, so I'll be replying tonight....hang tight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was pretty certain your would be the keeper of knowledge and one to point me in the correct direction. I may regret tearing into it but short of finding someone who is close and cheap I am going to the guinea pig
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Doubtful the wayward pins did any damage at all, but we'll all find out soon enough. Gotta run out the door now, but will be back this evening. I have most of a pump in parts now, so I'll refresh my memory by looking at it before posting more.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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You will need to completely remove the hydro as a unit from the tractor, which you look to have already. No need to remove the charge pump if it was not leaking & working the lift good. Remove the 4 bolts from the rear mounting plate. This holds the entire unit together, so have a good working spot. The front pump section is all you have to pull off, but the piston cylinder is spring loaded, so all sections may spread apart. Because of this, all gaskets will likely need replaced. As I said, I make my own from Mr Gasket bulk rolls, but the gaskets are available. The o-rings are a special size, so either get them from Agco, or match them at a hydraulic shop.
The roll pins are std type roll pins with the split down one side. Likely you will find them unharmed inside the pump case. They MUST be the right length, or getting them out in the future will be a nightmare! When you must remove them, each one drops into a slot in the back side of things, so if you put one long pin into this, there isn't room on the back side for it to fall out. You can cut a longer roll pin to the correct length though.
If nothing else needs any attention, then all you will need to do is re-install new pins. They are the length to where you drive one in, then drive the 2nd on top of the first. This puts each roll pin on each side of the shaft, pinning it to the swash plate.

Do Not use plain silicon sealer at all. The squeezings can clog the system. Use a very very thin layer of a quality sealer if you feel you need it due to any scratches, or if able to re-use the original gaskets (not likely). I use Permatex "Ultra Grey" or Yamabond 4 from a Yamaha motorcycle dealer. The Yamabond is the best & goes on thinner & doesn't squeeze in like std silicons, and even if it does, it hardly ever will drop off & get into anything.

Just be very careful keeping everything in it's correct place. As the manuals say, pistons can go into any hole, so if the cylinder & pistons fall out, don't worry, they interchange in the holes.

Once you get things apart, post plenty of component pics so we can get a good look. Most important is the back side of the cylinder & the brass looking plates they run against. Then of course the piston wobble faces.

This is something you CAN do, so don't worry, just take your time. VERY important to take reference pics at every stage of work you do.
 

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GO, Daniel, GO! Chop that silage, give help to newby, chop that silage.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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KennyP said:
GO, Daniel, GO! Chop that silage, give help to newby, chop that silage.
LOL @ Kenny! Chopping done for the day. Takes 3 to keep chopping smooth, and one has to milk the cows now, so I'm off duty! Hot out, so not tinkering with my tractors tonight. A guy's gotta rest!
 

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I know what you mean. I have been outside getting that blasted remodel ready to paint. Airport is showing 107 right now. Very little wind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Daniel, Thank you very much. You have offered me the insight I need. On Monday evening I will start the tear down and yes I will take some photos not only to document what I am doing but also so I can put the darn thing back together. Why not this weekend? I have a nephews wedding to go to. Lucky me!

My biggest fear is mis-aligning one of the pistons into the wrong hole upon reassembly but I guess I will live learn and maybe gain some additional knowledge. Again thanks a lot.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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You can't get the pistons in the wrong hole....they can interchange freely, so don't worry about that. You can handle it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The advice given has proven fruitfull. Between work calls today I have the Pump Apart. No applause all credit goes to Daniel.

I will post photos later, and while Daniel says the pistons are interchangeable, I have kept them exactly in the cylinders as they came out.

Closer inspection is needed but here is the damage I have found, one roll pin is missing about a 1/3 of its length. I have found some small metal fibers in the swash plate atea. The needle and roller bearings appear good condition and the pistons dont look damaged and the 2 brass plates dont have any gouges or burned areas.

I could almost write a short essay on taking it apart.

Danie again thanks, and by the way driving the pins out was the answer. I was concerned someone had been in here before and the pins were going to be too long. But they drove out easily and now to see if I can get a new roll pin to go in where the damaged one failed. And maybe a new grease seal for that side.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Good deal! See, I told you that you could handle it! Just get everything good & cleaned up before re-assembly & sounds like you'll be hydro'ing around with a big smile on your face! And applause DOES go to YOU! Entertainment Font Building Event Fictional character More applause when she'd pulling you around!
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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If you decide to give that tractor away, I drive through Independence every March for a dairy meeting in KC. I can bring my trailer! LOL Watch me not get elected as a delegate this Fall now! Heck though, if you wanted to give it away, I'd make a special trip!:bigrofl:
 

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Glad to hear of the success thus far. Daniel has you covered real well, all I might add is to use a small magnet to get to any fine steel particles that might be hiding inside there, before you put it all back together. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Daniel without support I wouldnt have tried

Here are the photos tell me what you see and yes one big A.. magnet will be on the bottom
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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A couple pics were blurry, but from what I can see, you have a good unit there! I think it'll be fine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
try to make this my last question on this topic

When buying gasket material to make my own what thickness material and what type of material?

I see lots of cork, and the original gaskets did not look like cork.

Or better yet since you are using Mr Gasket materail may I have the model number of the materail you are using

Again thank you
 
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