Garden Tractor Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Member
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I spend a ton of time researching this has anyone ever replaced their two piece drive shaft p/n1758196? Mine is worn out on both universals requiring a complete replacement. I was going to scrap the tractor and put that 600 hour Vanguard V twin into a tube frame tractor. I'm thinking if I can fix it relatively cheap I will do that instead. The tractor is like new other than this drive shaft any ideas? Thank you once again for your help.
 

Attachments

·
Getting Out!
Joined
·
8,205 Posts
Think I saw one like that on epay not long ago, might look there? Maybe some sellers here have new joints if replaceable? OR, the shaft or used one. You don't show where you live, but how about a pix of tractor, maybe you should just sell it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
911 Posts
I have zero knowledge on these but a buddy of mine used a steering shaft from a heavy truck to build a driveshaft for one of his John Deere's. He cut it down for the right length. Find a heavy truck junkyard(highway tractor size). The shafts go from the steering gear to the steering column. I can pull a picture off my laptop later if you are interested.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi guys thanks for the ideas. I can work with what you have told me. I need to get it out of the shed in the Spring and pull the drive shaft out and go from there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blackjackjakexxix

·
Member
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Think I saw one like that on epay not long ago, might look there? Maybe some sellers here have new joints if replaceable? OR, the shaft or used one. You don't show where you live, but how about a pix of tractor, maybe you should just sell it?
Hi, I'm in NH, That tractor is actually a beautiful machine. It was nice when I bought it but I put a lot of time into it to bring it up to where I wanted it to be. It's just not set up the way I like it for the blower. I'd like to build up a nice tube frame using that motor but feel a little guilty making that tractor a donor. If I can fix it within reason I may do so. This post shows some pictures of it from when I restored it.

http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/35468-the-twins/?hl=%2B1669l
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Yes, replaced the driveshaft TWO times. The original, one Bolens replacement and one custom made shaft from a driveshaft builder about 8-9 yrs ago. Still okay, but it is a much larger diameter and is heavier than original. I was worried that the additional weight would cause problems . So far, so good. However, I only use this machine (1991 model) to cut grass. It has about 800 hrs on it now. It does look as clean as your buffed out unit. The smallest available automotive joints from NEAPCO were used . I have recently tried to get info from a 4-wheeler u-joint manufacturer, but they never answered me. It still needs to be a two piece unit as you have to slide it rearward . Otherwise you would have to remove the entire battery/steering/assemblies/support areas. The rear end of the shaft does have to be machined to specs to fit the hydro stub shaft. It cost me about $300 at the time. The shield that sits above the front joint had to be raised with a spacer I machined (3/4" high X 1" diameter) and longer bolts.

Another sore point I have found is the PTO coil. The second replacement was installed last year after "babying" it for several years. ie: Once the deck was engaged COLD, it stayed engaged until ALL cutting was done. If I had shut it down, it would not re-engage hot.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
Mine came out great. I used 1000 series ujoints. I had one of the ends machined to fit on the engine stub shaft and another one machined to accept the hydro fan. This works well, is a lot heavier duty than the original cheap greaseless bolens one. I keep this one greased and expect it to last as long as I own the tractor. It is about the size and quality of the old tube frame pto universals. Here are some pictures.

DSC09704.JPG

DSC09707.JPG

DSC09708.JPG

DSC09732.JPG

DSC09733.JPG

DSC09734.JPG

DSC09735.JPG

DSC09736.JPG

DSC09737.JPG

DSC09753.JPG

DSC09755.JPG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi guys,

I've got an QT17 1666. and I snapped the Ujoint on the engine side, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the hydro side off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
On my 1669 I had to use a torch and heat up the end of the shaft. It was tough because I did not want to overheat the hydro seal. Between heating and tapping with a ball peen hammer it finally let go. I don’t know of any easy sure fired method. Maybe someone will chime in with better ideas. Best of luck on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
After making sure ALL the set screws are out, I'd first spray some sort of penetrant into where the set screws were, then spray into the shaft the best you can & let it sit awhile, then do it again & have an air hammer ready and hammer at the opposite side of the joint that slides into the shaft, because you won't have enough room to get in there. It's a process, but they come loose that way. The vibration helps the penetrant work its way into the areas that are dry & holding that pto shaft on there. Good luck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I reached out on this as a last resort. it's a 4 year old post. I was certain that no one would reply. I got 3 with in 2 days. Thanks guys. I was afraid to use force because I didn't want to break anything - Looks like (Aside from the driveshafts) these things are made pretty well. I'll keep you all posted!!!
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top