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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to pull the engine (K482) on this. Issue is getting the driveshaft undone. Do I have to pull the dash to lift the engine and move it forward the 3" I need to pull it off the crank? Anyone got the 'secret recipe' for this? It needs a new starter and rear main seal. Can't see any other way at the moment. HELP PLEASE!
 
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I took the front bolt out of the driveshaft and pulled the back of the driveshaft off of the hydrostat unit and slid it forward til it cleared the pump shaft (you don't need to move it as far). Then you can side it out the back. You are still going to have to pull the steering tower to replace the rear seal but it can be done. I even replaced the starter without pulling the engine out!
 

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Mark J.
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Sorry Kenny, wish I could help you out.
 

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Attached is the large frame service manual that Bolens published in case you do not have it. Section 7 mentions the procedure for engine removal - have not had to do the task myself so not much other information I can provide.

This thread may be helpful -
HT20 needs a new starter
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Attached is the large frame service manual that Bolens published in case you do not have it. Section 7 mentions the procedure for engine removal - have not had to do the task myself so not much other information I can provide.

This thread may be helpful -
HT20 needs a new starter
Got that and says nothing about dash removal, but the reinstall procedure mentions the dash. :sick:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I removed the dash. Hooked up the hoist.
Wheel Tire Plant Automotive tire Motor vehicle
Had to get creative with the driveshaft removal.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Gas
It's out.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Road surface
Think this is where the leak was coming from, not the rear seal.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Wood Rim
Created quite a mess.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Wood Automotive exterior
Here's the back of the engine, seal looks dry.
Automotive tire Gear Motor vehicle Wheel Bicycle part
Debris screen is torn.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Grille Automotive tail & brake light

One of the starter bolts is behind the flywheel and shrouds.
 

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Good job! You got it. Any local auto parts or repair places that can make up new hoses? I had hoses made for my H14 at NAPA. I missed out on one of those 1886 tractors at an estate sale by an hour or so. Would make a nice upgrade from my 1477.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Dave. Never worked on one of these before so it's a learning experience. Luckily I have the manuals saved to look through. They are a big machine!
 

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Mark J.
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Kenny is this for a customer or is this a new one for you?
They are a big tractor!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I took the front bolt out of the driveshaft and pulled the back of the driveshaft off of the hydrostat unit and slid it forward til it cleared the pump shaft (you don't need to move it as far). Then you can side it out the back. You are still going to have to pull the steering tower to replace the rear seal but it can be done. I even replaced the starter without pulling the engine out!
I havent's a clue how you could get the starter out without pulling the engine. It's trapped between the engine and frame! I'll have to remove the flywheel to get the top bolt out of the starter
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The front PTO bearings need replaced on this. The rear snap ring and pulley are off along with the front snap ring. Which way does the shaft come out? Front side or back? Press-fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got the frame cleaned up yesterday.
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Light

Pulled the flywheel for starter removal and found why it wasn't charging.
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Mark J.
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Wow! Never seen a stator do that before. Any damage to the hole that will retain the stator?
 

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I havent's a clue how you could get the starter out without pulling the engine. It's trapped between the engine and frame! I'll have to remove the flywheel to get the top bolt out of the starter
I took the engine mount bolts out and was able to pull the blower housing off then moves the engine around enough to get the starter out!
 

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Wow! Never seen a stator do that before. Any damage to the hole that will retain the stator?
I've had two like that. I thought the first one got tight, so I replaced it. After a year or so, I was pulling the flywheel off and found that the magnets inside the flywheel cane loose and were holding the flywheel so it wouldn't turn over. I replaced the flywheel with a newer one and changed the stator and it works great. By the way, I have a newer stator and rectifier/regulator that I would let go but you would need a flywheel. The second one, I replaced the flywheel and used a 15 amp stator from a newer engine and that also works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
We are going with the JD 15 amp system & flywheel.
 
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Did the small bolts the hold the stator shear off? Or did they loosen and fall out? The stator is stuck inside the flywheel? Did any of this hurt the snout where the crankshaft comes out? Sorry for so many questions, I'm just tryin' to understand what the heck happened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Did the small bolts the hold the stator shear off? Or did they loosen and fall out? The stator is stuck inside the flywheel? Did any of this hurt the snout where the crankshaft comes out? Sorry for so many questions, I'm just tryin' to understand what the heck happened.
Bolts backed out, found the remnants in the magnets, which held the stator in place. And different gear case cover is on the way. You can see where the snout had wear on it, don't know how much, thus a different part. And it ripped the wires out of the stator. Here's a close up.
Automotive tire Gas Rim Nut Auto part
 
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