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2,344 Posts
Hooking up the lines from the engine to the remote oil filter and also the lines coming from the transmission and running up along the outside of the frame.

The transmission lines fasten to fittings on the outside of the frame.


There are steel tubes welded into the frame rail and these fittings are screwed into them on the inside of the frame.

The lines from the transmission cooler in the radiator will connect to these two fittings.


I have a chrome steel cover that fits over the oil filter.

Whereas it makes the filter look nicer, it is actually to protect the filter from being punctured from a rock being thrown up by the front tire.


This has a power rack & pinion steering unit fastened under the frame rail on the left side.

The tie-rod arm on the front side pushes out and pulls back in to turn the front wheels left and right.

The tie-rod arm on the back side has been removed from the steering unit.


This steering system works really well but it is awfully close to the exhaust header coming off the engine.

I have made up two heat shields to block the direct heat from the exhaust.

The one shield is flat and it is fastened to the oil pan so the pressure line coming from the power steering pump can run behind it.

The other shield is formed into a " C " shape and it wraps around the main body of the steering unit with about 1/2 inch air space between the two.


There is a large cooler unit fastened to the underside of the frame.

The return line coming out of the steering unit runs into the front port on the cooler.

The line attached to the rear port runs under the back of the engine and is connected to the the return line on the back of the power steering pump.


I made up a shield to cover the underside of the cooler and protect it from debris.

It is also a scoop to direct air into the cooler.

Right now it just has an aluminum mesh screen on the front of it but I'm going to replace that with a stronger steel mesh.


The pressure fuel line is hooked up to the fuel manifold on the carburetors and it runs down to an aluminum block that is mounted on the front of the engine.

There is a fitting on the carburetor fuel manifold ( to the left of the pressure line ) for attaching another line.

The electric fuel pump is motor driven and designed to run constant so it requires a return line going back to the fuel tank.


A rubber fuel line is attached to this aluminum block and it connects to a fitting that is screwed into the inside of the frame rail.


As with the lines on the other frame rail, this is a steel tube going thru the frame and the fuel line from the electric fuel pump connects to it.



2,344 Posts
I do not remember what the grille section came from that I used on this air scoop but the aluminum mesh screen was already in it.

Looking at the inside of the air scoop, the outer edges of the grille are rolled over to form a slot for the mesh to fit into and the edges are squeezed down to hold it in place.


I spread the edges apart and took the aluminum screen out of the grille.


Then I cut out pieces of galvanized steel wire screen and fit them into the grille.


They fit into the slots along the edge of the grille.


This makes a stronger screen for the grille but not as strong as I would like it to be.

I found this piece of expanded metal that is just a little less then 1/8 inch thick.


I made another screen out of it.


This fastens into the air scoop, up tight behind the galvanized wire screen to give it more support.


Here is how it looks from the outside.


And how it looks mounted back under the car.



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54,142 Posts
Looks like a good fix! Most folks will never see it anyway!
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2,344 Posts
What's the story with the Spaulding flamethrower? It appears to be grafted onto the base of another distributor to use the vacuum and mechanical advance ?
.... I had a question about the distributor on another forum so I thought I would share this with you also. ....

Rebuild parts for those old flamethrower distributors haven't been available since the 70's and if you find one that is still in good working condition, it would cost you a fortune ( even back in the 90's when I got this one ).
There are two of them for sale on ebay right now that are in good condition.
One is for a Chevy and he is asking $850 for it.
The other is for a 383 / 440 Chrysler and he wants $999.95

I picked this one up for a few bucks at a swap meet back in the 90's and it was completely worn out.
I wanted to build this car in the style of rods in the late 50's and early 60's and the flamethrower was just the look that I needed for the ignition.


The flamethrower body is actually just a fancy cap and when you lift it off, there is a regular distributor cap under it.


I machined a brass sleeve to fit over a stock electronic distributor from a late 70's Chrysler 383 / 440.


I drilled out the side plates on the flamethrower so the plug wires will go thru them and plug into the blue cap inside.
This way I have the more modern electronic ignition with a vacuum advance with the looks of the 50's flamethrower distributor.
I'm going to go ahead and mount a coil for each side of the flamethrower but one of them will just be a dummy.



2,344 Posts
Working with the fuel system.

Both the feed and return lines are hooked up to the fuel manifold on the carburetors and the aluminum block mounted on the front of the engine.

There is a chrome fuel pressure regulator mounted to the inlet port in the side of the frame and the rubber feed line is hooked to it.

There is a black metal return line fastened to the bottom of the aluminum block and it is running down alongside the lower part of the oil pan ( behind the heat shield ).


The electric fuel pump is mounted under the right rear of the car.

The pressure line comes off the right side of the pump and runs up and over to a Fram fuel filter mounted on the left side ( the red can ).

The line coming out of the left side of the pump, and is hanging out in space just now, is the fuel pickup line.


The finned aluminum fuel diverter can is now mounted in place.

The fuel inlet will be connected to the top pipe on the can for filling the two fuel tanks.

The pickup hose from the fuel pump is fastened to the bottom of this can and this is the lowest point in the fuel system.


These are my two home made aluminum fuel tanks.

I think each of them will hold 10 or 11 gallons of fuel.

The larger pipe on the inside bottom of each tank are the fuel fill tubes.

The smaller tube coming out of the top corner on each tank are to let the air flow out of them as they are filled and back in as the fuel level drops.

DSC02469.JPG DSC02468.JPG

Turning the tanks over, you can see a heat shield fastened to the bottom of the tank on the right.

The heat shield for the other tank still needs to have the holes drilled into it to mount it to the tank.


One tank fits on each side of the car.


Here you can see how the bump-outs on the tank fit into the usable space under the vehicle for maxim fuel capacity for the tanks.


Here you can see the large pipe coming out of the diverter can to connect to each tank.

This allows both tanks to fill and empty equally.


Both tanks will be covered by the running board splash shields.



2,344 Posts
The ignition timing mark on the hemi was on the outside diameter of the harmonic balancer with the pointer sticking out from the front of the timing chain cover.

I replaced the timing chain cover with an after market chrome cover and it doesn't have the pointer on the front of it so that timing reference point is gone.

The rubber on the original harmonic balancer rotted out years ago so that timing reference point is also gone.

The original harmonic balancer is no longer available but you can adapt one from the newer 340 Chrysler engine to the old hemi but there are two problems.

First ... the hemi crankshaft has a 1/4 inch key and the 340 balancer has a 3/16 inch key.

You can widen the keyway in the 340 balancer out to 1/4 inch or you can make a step key that is 1/4 inch on the bottom and 3/16 inch on the top.

The second problem ... is that the timing marks on the 340 balancer are in a different location then the hemi balancer in relation to the keyway.

So you have to make new timing marks on the balancer or relocate the pointer.

I have ordered a 340 balancer and it should be here in a couple of days.

Meanwhile I need to find top dead center on the compression stroke in preparation for mounting the new balancer.

Before I go turning this engine over a lot, I want to spin the oil pump and get the oil pumped thru the engine.

First I need to pull the oil pump drive gear up out of the engine.


I cut a notch into the end of a steel rod and slid it down onto the oil pump shaft.

Then I put a drill on the other end so I can spin the oil pump.


This pumped the oil up thru the engine and you can see where the oil has been flowing back into the area where the drive gear goes.


Now we're ready to time the engine.

My son came out help me and brought his degree wheel to mount on the crankshaft.


We put a rod in the spark plug hole so we could see the movement of the piston.

The piston was brought up and over center a little ways on the compression stroke.

Then the rod was taken out of the hole and a piston stop tool was screwed into the spark plug hole.

At this point, the crank was rotated back ( counter clockwise ) until the piston came up against the stop and the pointer was at 45 on the degree wheel.

The crank was then rotated forward ( clockwise ) all the way around until the piston came up against the stop again and the pointer was at 113 on the wheel.

Adding 45 and 113 together gave us 158.

158 was divided by 2 to give us 79.

The piston stop was removed from the engine and the crank was rotated until the pointer was at 79 ... this is exact top dead center of the compression stroke.


Now to make sure that the crankshaft doesn't turn while I'm installing the new harmonic balancer, I made up a bracket that fits into the flywheel teeth and is bolted and clamped to the transmission housing.


With the engine a TDC, I can now put the oil pump drive gear back in place.

This gear also drives the distributor so it has to go in at a specific rotation.

I have a mark on the end of that rod that lines up with the notch on the other end so I can rotate the oil pump shaft to line up with the drive gear.


The drive gear is in place with the distributor slot angled at about ten o'clock position.


I'm using a newer Chrysler electronic distributor instead of the original duel point distributor.

They rotate clockwise and you can see on this one that the rotor is just a few degrees ahead of the spline on the shaft.

With the slot in the drive gear at about ten o'clock, this should point the rotor at about halfway between 10 and 11.

I have already painted the lower part of the engine block and before I put the distributor in, I'm going to mask off and paint the rest of the engine.



2,344 Posts
For the transmission fluid, I have an air cooler along with the unit that is in the radiator.


The cooler is located behind the front axle but I think it will still get plenty of air flow thru it.


There was a tremendous amount of aluminum welding done to make up the two fuel tanks.

I am confident of my welding but I still want to use a fuel tank sealer, if for no other reason then the fact that little hairline cracks can form in the welds over time just from the vibration of driving the car.

I coated them up today and they are fastened to the back of the truck so the excess sealer can drain out.


I looked both of the tanks over really good after I had put the sealer in them and I was very pleased to only find this one tiny little red bubble where the sealer seeped thru a pinhole in the corner of the weld on the left side.


The 340 harmonic balancer came today and I painted it red.

Chrysler harmonic balancers from the 70's and 80's have the groove for TDC and the degrees marked on the outside of balancer.

The degrees on this one were only printed on and not etched into the metal so they disappeared when I painted it.

You can see the TDC groove inline with the keyway in the hub.

Here it is sitting next to the original crank hub from the Hemi.

The original Hemi harmonic balancer bolted onto the hub behind the pulleys.



With my engine set a TDC, you can see that the keyway on the crank is at about 5 o'clock position so using the existing keyway on the balancer will put that TDC mark on the underside of the crank.

As you can see, the power steering pump and the inlet hose for the water pump are on the passengers side and the alternator is on the drivers side so there is no really open area on either side.

The timing mark on the balancer needs to be in the position of the black line on the piece of blue tape.

Even there, I will have to remove the alternator to gain access to the timing mark.


Because there are no timing degrees etched into the balancer, the simplest way to mount it is to go ahead and use the existing keyway and just make a new timing mark on it in the correct position.

I do not have a broach hub big enough to fit this bore for widening the keyway so I'm just going to mill part of the key down to 3/16 to fit the 340 hub.


Here is the new step key in the hub.


And here is the finished harmonic balancer mounted on the engine.

I pressed the side of the balancer against the bandsaw blade to make about a .010 deep cut in the metal.

You can see the timing mark just under the mounting bracket for the alternator.

I'm going to use a Chevy timing tab to line up with the mark on the balancer because they have the TDC mark and the degrees marked on the tab.



Mark J.
2,217 Posts
Just out of curiosity, why a 340 balancer and not one from any of the other engines from Chrysler? I'm assuming because of internal vs. external balance of the engine.

Fun looking project. Lover the look of the hemi. Thanks for sharing.
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2,344 Posts
Just out of curiosity, why a 340 balancer and not one from any of the other engines from Chrysler? I'm assuming because of internal vs. external balance of the engine.
From what I have been able to find on the internet, the 340 balancer is the only one that the hub is the same length as the early Hemi.

It also has the cup style dust shield on the inside of the hub, just like the Hemi hub has.

The other Chrysler balancers do not have this dust shield.



Old, but not dead -- yet!
3,263 Posts
If the 340 balancer and the Chevy balancer were not the same diameter, the Chevy timing tab will only be accurate at the TDC mark. ...You may be better off making a tab for TDC and making degree marks on the 340 balancer.

2,344 Posts
If the 340 balancer and the Chevy balancer were not the same diameter, the Chevy timing tab will only be accurate at the TDC mark. ...You may be better off making a tab for TDC and making degree marks on the 340 balancer.
They are both 7-1/4 inch diameter.
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2,344 Posts
........ A little information for those of you that like this sort of thing .................

The early Chrysler, Dodge and DeSoto Hemi engines were popular for hot rodders and drag racers back in the 50's - 60's and into the 70's.

The stock Hemi had more horsepower then the other V-8 engines with equivalent cubic inches and their huge valve covers just makes them look massive.

Because of their design, it was also easier to get more horsepower out of them then the normal overhead valve design engines.

Because they were so popular, you could get most anything to hop them up and to dress them up.

A couple of drawbacks with the engines was that their starters were on the left side of the block, as shone in this photo of a stock Hemi from a Chrysler 300.

In this location, the starter would be in the way of the steering box when putting these engines into an older car.


And the oil filter stuck way out from the block on the right side.


You could get ( and still can get ) adapters to mount the oil filter along side the block or pointing straight down.

013.PNG 014.jpg

Most hot rodders and drag racers did not use the stock Chrysler automatic transmission so adapters were available to use just about any other transmission with them.

This was a very popular adapter to bolt the Hemi up to the 32 to 48 Ford standard transmission.

This adapter moved the original Chrysler starter over to the right side.


Here is an adapter to bolt a Chevy automatic transmission to the Hemi and it also mounts the original Chrysler starter over on the right side.


When I first thought of building this car, I wanted it to look like the rods that were built back in the 50's and 60's.

So, naturally, I wanted an early Hemi.

......... ( I'm glad I bought mine when I did because I sure couldn't afford to buy one now at today's prices. ... actually, I bought three of them. ) ...........

As you can see on my car, there is no room for a starter on the left side of the engine.


I had already made my own transmission adapter to bolt a Chevy automatic transmission on my engine.

Instead of using the old original Chrysler starter, I wanted to use a more modern Chevy starter that I would still be able to get parts for it 20 years later.

So I built my own starter adapter to put the Chevy starter on the right side of the block.


Back in the 50's and 60's, power steering wasn't even a consideration when those guys were building their rods so ( as far as I know ) no one sold an adapter to move the location of the power steering pump.

If you look back at the photo of the stock Chrysler 300 hemi, you will see that the power steering pump was mounted up on the left side next to the water pump.

I wanted power steering on my car but I didn't want the pump in such a visible location.

So, I made a adapter to mount the power steering pump down low on the right side and put the alternator up where the pump use to be.



Mark J.
2,217 Posts
Lots of interesting information about the early hemi's. You and my younger brother would have a lot to talk about. He has a lot of the old hemi's piled up in his shop. He's big into rat rods. He has a 32 Chevy coup with a 292 straight six. He's modified it a lot. He's currently at Bonneville Speed Week in Utah. He drives the 32 down there every year (1200 miles round trip) . He doesn't run it at Bonneville but he enjoys seeing all of the cars and friends that he's made.

Keep up the good work!

Here is a picture of him with his car.


2,344 Posts
.... Continuing for your entertainment with information of adapting parts from other engines to fit the early Hemi engines. ....

It's common for parts from one size engine to bolt right on another size engine that is made by the same manufacture.

A good example is all the different parts that will interchange between the Chevy 265 - 283 - 327 - 350 and 400 engines all thru the many years of production.

However, you would not expect to be able to use parts from one manufacture on another manufactures engine ... especially the water pump.

A water pump is a unique part that is manufactured for a particular manufacture and sometimes for only one particular engine.

Over the years of production, Chrysler had manufactured different styles of water pump housings for their Hemi engines.

Starting with the 331 with a cast iron combination of water pump housing and timing chain cover.


This early Hemi did not have water outlet ports in the cylinder heads.


Then they put water outlet ports in the heads and made a cast iron water pump with a crossover pipe cast into the top of it to bolt to the heads.

Engines with this style pump housing used a stamped steel timing chain cover behind it.


They also cast the pump housing and crossover housing as individual units ( as shone on this engine )


They also manufactured different sizes of water pumps for the two piece housings over the years.


These original style water pumps are still available but no parts store is likely to have one in stock and most places aren't even able to order one.

You can order them from places like Summit and Jegs but they are really expensive.

Back when these Hemis were still a commonly used engine, someone figured out that a Chevy water pump could easily be adapted to them by making a pair of adapter blocks.


With the Chevy pump, you could use the Chrysler crossover thermostat housing.

The crossover housings came with the thermostat housing on the top center ( as shown in the photo ) .. or on the top left side of the engine .. or on the front, a little off center to the left.


Or make up your own crossover pipe and thermostat housing.


Instead of buying a water pump adapter kit, I went ahead and made up my own blocks out of aluminum.

I also made up my own crossover tube and thermostat housing.


That chrome tube in the photo with the cap on it that is sticking out at angle on the left side is my oil fill tube.

The oil fill tube on the original engine was in the front of the valley cover pan and stuck up in front of the carburetor.

My oil fill tube is bolted to the side of the timing chain cover where the fuel pump fit.

The cap is lifted off to add oil to the engine.



2,344 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The Chrysler originally had a duel point distributor.

It worked well but I would prefer to have electronic ignition.

Of coarse several types of distributors and even magnetos were, and still are available.

Or .. you could adapt a stock electronic distributor from a newer Chrysler engine to it.

The base of the distributor from a 383 / 440 engine fits perfectly into the Hemi block but the shaft on the newer distributor is about 5/16 inch short.

Here you can see that the tab on the distributor shaft doesn't quite fit down into the slot in the drive gear.


There is a guy that makes an adapter to extend the shaft on the newer Chrysler distributors.

Here he shows the original early Hemi on the left and a stock newer distributor in the center with his extension kit on the distributor on the right.


With his extension, you have to cut about an inch off the shaft of the newer distributor.

Then slide his extension up on the shaft until it is at the correct length and then drill and pin it in place,

Naturally, I decided to just make my own shaft extension.

Instead of cutting the locating tab off the end of the newer distributor shaft, I decided to keep it and just make a short piece to fit on the end of the shaft.

I have a junk Chrysler distributor so I cut about 5/8 inch off the end of it.

Then I clamped the tab of that piece in my mill and machined a slot about .100 deep into the end of it that is inline with the tab.


The tab on the newer distributor is almost 5/16 long so if I had milled that slot the full depth so it fit onto the end of the distributor, then there wouldn't be hardly any metal holding the tab onto that piece.

Once the slot was milled into the extension piece, then I cut some off the distributor tab so it fit into the slot in the extension.


A piece of steel rod is bored out so one end slides onto the newer distributor shaft.

The other end is bored out to where it is a press fit for the extension piece.


The extension piece is pressed into the sleeve.


Even though the sleeve and the extension piece are pressed together, I still drilled and put a small pin thru them to guarantee that they never come apart.


The extension is slid up over the distributor and it is drilled and pinned to the the distributor shaft.


Here is the finished distributor ready to go back into my engine.



Mark J.
2,217 Posts
Nice fix!

Looks like you're using a stock electronic distributor. What is the gold part that you have attached where the cap would go?
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2,344 Posts
Nice fix!

Looks like you're using a stock electronic distributor. What is the gold part that you have attached where the cap would go?
That is a brass sleeve that holds the top part of an old Grant Flamethrower distributor.

The regular Chrysler distributor cap is inside that brass sleeve and the plug wires will go up thru the holes in the side plates on the Flamethrower cap.

DSC02460.JPG DSC02458.JPG


2,344 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
For the timing tab, I made up a bracket that will bolt to the lower part of the engine and then fastened a Chevy degree tab to it.


Here it is mounted on the Hemi.



2,344 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
OOPS .......

I made a mistake on the extension that I made for my distributor.

As you can see here, there is a counter bore in the top of the drive gear above the slot for the distributor shaft.

The counter bore doesn't look very deep in the photo but it is actually about 5/16 deep.


This is the the first extension that I made for the distributor and, as you can see, the bottom end of the steel sleeve goes right down to the milled drive tab.


I have had to make a new extension that has some of the shaft sticking out of the end of the steel sleeve so it can fit down into the counter bore in the gear.


The distributor now fits onto the engine block with the rotor pointing at about ten o'clock position.


With the distributor housing at this position, the rotor roughly lines with the number one spark plug terminal at the ten o'clock position on the cap.


This is the position of about where the vacuum advance chamber will be.

The original distributor only used a mechanical advance so they didn't not have this vacuum chamber mounted on the side.

The port for the oil pressure is under the vacuum chamber so I may have to put a 45 or 90 degree fitting on it so the oil sender will clear the vacuum chamber ( it will depend on how tall the sender is ).



2,344 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The back of the engine is getting a little tight as I assemble more parts there.

The distributor is mounted and the holding clamp for it is bolted in under the vacuum advance.

The oil sending unit is also mounted beside the distributor and the water temperature sending unit is screwed in place on the intake manifold.

The last thing to hook up was the rubber hose for the vacuum advance.


The vacuum line runs up the back of the blower and is connected to the right rear carburetor.


There are four, Ford model-94 carburetors on top of this 471 blower and each one is rated at 162 CFM.

These are 2-barrel carbs and this model was manufactured between 1938 and 1957.

The two carbs on the right side of the manifold are linked together so they open and close at the same time and the two carbs on the left side are linked together so they open and close at the same time.

This engine has 280 HP stock and for the most part, driving it on the street, just using the two carbs on the right side will be plenty of power to move it down the road with out any assistance from the blower.

The carb linkage is adjustable for the two carbs on the left side. There is a little chrome clip that goes thru a hole in the red linkage rod. With it in the hole at the end of the rod like this ....


The throttle can be pulled all the way back and it will not open these two carbs.


With the clip in the second hole in the red rod like this ....


Then when the throttle is pulled back, these two carbs open so that all four carbs are all the way open at full throttle.

When this happens, I would strongly suggest that make sure your seat belt is fastened securely and hang on tight .... cause we be going for a ride !



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