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2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the years I have had many projects and 99 percent of those projects I have taken all the way to completion.
In the 1 percent of those projects that were never completed are things like the Ford Model-T and the 47 Plymouth convertible.

Back in the late 1960's I had gotten a motorbike frame that was complete except for missing the engine.
The frame was a Simplex Servi Cycle from the mid to late 1950's.
I put a 2-cycle chainsaw engine and a 2-speed Cushman scooter transmission in it and rode it around for several years.
Top speed on it was only about 25 MPH.
Sometime in the early 80's I picked up a motor and transmission from a mid to late 1950's Lambretta motor scooter and I started modifying that Servi Cycle frame to fit the Lambreta into it.
That project was never completed.

When we lived up in Buckley, Michigan in the early 2000's, I had gotten the parts for another Servi Cycle that was built somewhere in the 1940's.
This bike was all original but was missing the seat, headlight and handlebars.
I took those parts from that old Servi Cycle that I had gotten way back in the late 1960's to use on this bike.
I put it all together and sold it.
These are some photos of that bike. ( Some of you may remember that project )

Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Crankset Fuel tank

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive lighting Automotive tire

During that time I had also built a motorcycle that looked like a 1930's BSA and it had a mid 1960's Yamaha 650 engine in it.
In the process of building the BSA, I had cut the rear frame section and the front crash bars off that old Servi Cycle frame that I had gotten in the late 60's and put them on the BSA frame.

Blue Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Gas

Again .. some of you may remember this project also.
This is what the BSA looked like before I sold it too.

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Automotive fuel system

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire

So .... that brings me to today .....
I still have most of the parts for the Servi Cycle that I had gotten back in the 60's and I'm thinking of finally finishing that project.

Tableware Wood Gas Metal Fish

Well the frame is in rough shape now, what with having parts missing from it.
Also .. in the early 80's I could still easily find parts for that 1950's Lambertta scooter engine but that engine is now 60 to 65 years old and parts are extremely hard to find now.

Here is what is left of that frame that I had gotten in the 60's.

Hand tool Wood Tool Hardwood Flooring

When I had built the BSA motorcycle and had used parts from the old Servi Cycle frame, I knew that someday I would want to finish the Servi Cycle and I knew then that I wouldn't want to use the Lambretta engine because it was already hard to find parts for it.
So I bought another Servi Cycle frame off ebay while they were still reasonably priced.
This is a 1940's frame and I think I paid $50 for it and around $25 to ship it.
These frames are listed for around $600 now and it can cost up to around $100 to ship it.

Bicycle tire Wheel Tire Wood Motor vehicle

Wheel Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle frame Motor vehicle

This is the engine that I will be putting in the bike.
It is a new motor that are currently available to retrofit into the 70's and 80's Honda motorbikes and other brand bikes like them.
They are 125cc, 4-cycle engines with 4-speed transmission and electronic ignition.
as you can see, the package includes everything needed to put this in my frame and get it running.
They sell a kit with the exhaust pipe included for a little more money but the exhaust won't even come close to fitting my frame so I bought the kit without the exhaust.

Font Machine Technology Automotive tire Auto part

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The original gas tank on the Servi Cycle would have looked like this.
The tank isn't very wide and it fit up under the frame with the upper frame tubes running in between the two gas caps.
Rectangle Gas Automotive exterior Composite material Auto part

The Lambreta engine that I was going to use back then was taller then the original Servi Cycle engine.
So I cut the tank in half to make two separate tanks.
Sports equipment Wood Machine Plastic Fashion accessory

I added some metal to the inside of the right half to make the tank wider and allow room for the head of the Lambretta engine to fit up inside it.
this is how the two halves fit together now with only the one fill cap on the right half of the tank.
Wood Gas Electric blue Plastic Fashion accessory

This is the underside of the tank.
The two halves are connected by rubber hoses running between them.
Sports equipment Skateboard Skateboarding Equipment Skateboarding Wood

The left half has a regular motorcycle fuel valve attached to the bottom of it to shut the fuel off.
This valve also has a main tank selection and a reserve selection.
Gas Electric blue Bird Fashion accessory Plastic

On the top of the left half of the tank, where the second gas cap was, there is now a hole where the ignition and headlight switch will go.
Gas Metal Handle Fashion accessory Bronze

I have removed the bar running along under where the original tank went.
I also removed the brake pedal from the right foot pad and cleaned up some of the rough welds.
Wood Motor vehicle Asphalt Gas Road surface

The right side of the tank is held in place with elastic cords.
Land vehicle Motor vehicle Vehicle Wheel Bicycle accessory

And the tank mounts are tack welded in place for that side.
Bicycle part Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Vehicle Bicycle accessory Bicycle tire

The right side of the tank is now mounted in place.
Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Motor vehicle

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay .. back to square one.
I really didn't think much about it when I mounted up the gas tank yesterday.
The tank was already split into two halves and it was just a matter of cutting the mounting brackets off the old frame section and welding them onto the new frame.
Today I got to thinking about it though. ...

The two halves were necessary because of the height of the vertical cylinder head on the Lambretta engine.
The new engine that I'm going to be using has a horizontal cylinder head so having the tank split in two isn't needed anymore.
It is awkward mounting the left half of the gas tank because the top bolt can only be reached by using a 1/4 inch ratchet and long 5/16 socket down thru the hole for the ignition switch.
Also, the two halves are connected by two rubber hoses with one of then being way up inside the cavity where the ignition switch goes.
So I have decided to join the two halves of the tank together into one tank and do away with the two rubber connecting hoses.

The threaded fittings for mounting the tanks and the hose fittings have been removed from both halves.
Saw Helmet Wood Tool Metal

Plugs are soldered into the holes that will no longer be used.
I also drilled extra holes along the bottom of both halves to allow better flow of the gas through the tank.
Hood Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior

I soldered a piece of metal onto the open side of the cavity in the left side of the tank.
Then I soldered the two halves together to form one tank.
Blue Wood Gas Composite material Auto part

The original gas tank was held up under the frame by two tension bolts threaded up thru a strap that ran along underside of the tank.
This new tank will be mounted the same way so that strap will be welded back in place on the frame.
Here I'm marking where the tension bolts will push up on the bottom of the tank.
Bumper Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Vehicle door Gas

A piece of 1/8 inch thick angle iron is welded in place where the back tension bolt will be and a piece of square tube is welded in at the front.
This gives a solid surface inside the sheet metal of the tank for the two tension bolts to push up against.
Wood Gas Paint Machine Auto part

Here I'm forming the sheet metal wrapper that will fit around the center of the tank.
Table Wood Flooring Automotive exterior Tool

The wrapper is soldered onto the tank.
Bumper Automotive lighting Wood Electric blue Tool

Helmet Motor vehicle Bumper Gas Tints and shades

The soldering flux is cleaned off and center of the tank is primed.
This new center section of the tank will be filled in with fiberglass cloth and resin.
This makes the tank much easier to mount on the bike and increases the capacity substantially.
Automotive tire Wood Bumper Table Rectangle

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
While I was working the other day on fitting the two halves of the gas tank onto the frame, I noticed that the crash bar is bent on one side.
You can see here that the bar on the right side of the photo is bent back a little.
Orange Tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Aircraft

I clamped the frame to the front of the forklift.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Plant Wood Terrestrial plant

Then I clamped a piece of angle iron to that side of the crash bar.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Plant Wood

The long piece of angle iron gave me the leverage needed to straighten the crash bar back out.
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Tread

Referencing the old photo of the frame.
The flat tank support bar with the two bolts in it that runs under the gas tank is what held the original tank in place.
Bicycle tire Wheel Tire Wood Motor vehicle

I had cut that tank support bar out to mount the two halves of the tank.
With the tank now returned to a single unit, I need to put that tank support bar back in.
The original support bar had flat pieces of strap steel welded to each end where it attached to the frame.
I cut those flat mounts off and made up round mounts instead.
Also, I'm using rubber cushions to press up against the bottom of the tank instead of just plain bolts.
Tool Metalworking hand tool Road surface Bumper Gas

With the tank setting in the frame, I locate where the tank support bar needs to go and tack weld it in place.
Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive tire Bicycle part

Here is the finished tank support.
Motor vehicle Wood Triangle Automotive exterior Bumper

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The new engine has arrived and I have it sitting in the frame to see how it fits.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Gas Automotive exterior

The idea of using one of these after market engines to re-power a Simplex Servi-Cycle isn't anything new.
Several of these bikes have already had this done to them. This is a photo of one that is on YouTube that has the same size engine that I am using. You can see in this photo that it is sitting in the frame in the same position that my engine is at right now.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire

The problem with using this type of engine in this frame is that there is a lot of open space between the bottom of the engine and the old motor mount in the frame.
Tire Wheel Crankset Bicycle tire Bicycle frame

I would like to lower the engine so it is closer to the old motor mount so it would sit more like this in the frame.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Engineering Gas Vehicle

As you can see, in order to do that, I'm going to have to modify the part of the frame tubes that are under the back of the motor.
I still have this upper section of the older frame that the gas tank fit up under.
Wood Door Tool Bumper Composite material

I separated those two frame tubes and, after cleaning the old welds up, I'm marking where to cut them to fit them in as new rear frame tubes.
Automotive tire Bicycle tire Wheel Wood Bicycle fork

I have to add a piece of tubing to the bottom and I have made up a sleeve the fits inside the two tubes to strengthen the welded joint.
Hand tool Tool Composite material Auto part Metal

With one side welded up, I clamp the other side to it to make sure that both sides are the same length and have the same curve.
Bicycle part Nickel Gas Tool Metalworking hand tool

The bottom frame tubes and the rear axle mounting plates are cut off of the frame.
Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Gas Automotive wheel system

Test fitting the new rear frame tube on this side.
Automotive tire Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Bicycle frame

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The two rear down tubes are tack welded onto the frame.
Wheel Crankset Bicycle tire Bicycle Bicycle frame

This is one of the rear axle mounting brackets that I cut off the bike frame.
They aren't very thick and the frame ends are left with just a hole in the end.
Tool Bicycle part Red Wood Hand tool

Back when I was working on this before, I had made up this pair of rear axle mounting brackets with rounded off frame ends attached to them.
Hand tool Stonemason's hammer Tool Wood Metalworking hand tool

These little bikes were often used by Western Union and other companies that operated a delivery service.
So I have decided that I'm going to put a sidecar frame with a box on it for holding packages and the outside fender on the sidecar will have a light on top of it.

I want to run the wire for that light down thru the inside of the right side of the bike frame.
I preparation for doing that, I'm drilling an angled hole into the upper frame end for that side.
Machine tool Metalworking Tool Gas Wood

This is the copper tube that will fit inside the frame tube. The chrome has been sandblasted off both ends so they can be soldered to the bike frame.
Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Rim Composite material

The rear end piece is set up into the frame. You can see the one end of the copper tube sticking down from under the end piece. The other end of the copper tube is sticking out of the frame just ahead of the cross bar for the rear of the tank mount.
Once the ends of the copper tube are soldered to the frame, they will be ground down flush with the frame tube.
Automotive tire Bicycle tire Wood Composite material Gas

The other end piece is set into the frame and the two rear axle mounting brackets are bolted to them.
Gas Vehicle Bicycle part Automotive tire Composite material

I use a degree gauge to make sure that everything is lined up right.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Asphalt Gas

The lower rear frame tubes are fit onto the frame and tack welded in place.
Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Wheel

Bicycle fork Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Wood

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I never liked having to do this part of a restoration ...
Plant Leaf Wood Terrestrial plant Grass

Bicycle frame Tire Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle fork

Plant Leaf Motor vehicle Wood Grass

Here is how it looks with the paint stripped off.
Bicycle tire Bicycle handlebar Bicycle frame Bicycle fork Bicycle part

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Gas

I brazed the ends of the copper tube that is running down the inside of the right rear frame tube.
Then I ground them flush with the frame tube and rounded out the inside of the holes so there are no sharp edges.

This is the end up by the gas tank mount.
Bicycle tire Wood Tire Automotive tire Bicycle frame

Bicycle part Rim Wood Composite material Auto part

And back by the rear axle mounting bracket.
Bicycle part Bicycle fork Bicycle frame Rim Tool

Hand tool Bicycle part Metalworking hand tool Wood Tool

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The left front down tube on the frame is fine as it is but I need just a little more space between it and the right down tube for clearance for the cylinder head.
Both of the front down tubes on the old frame that I was building were bent out for clearance around the Lambretta engine.
So I cut the right tube off to use on this frame.
Wood Gas Metal Scaled reptile Hand tool

The right down tube is cut out of this frame.
Automotive tire Line Synthetic rubber Chair Gas

I ended up needing to turn the lower part of this down tube in so I cut it in half so I could rotate the lower half.
Wood Bumper Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior

This down tube is welded in place.
Automotive tire Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle frame Bumper

The engine is set in place so I can start making motor mounts.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tire Wheel Motor vehicle

Front view showing clearance between the engine and the left down tube.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Tire Bicycle tire

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Before I can make the mounts for the motor, I need to have the real wheel mounted in place so that the drive chain can be lined up between the engine and the rear sprocket.

These are the two wheels for the bike. The one standing up is the rear wheel and it has newer motorcycle hub that has larger brake shoes then the original hub.
The other wheel is for the front and it originally did not have any brake on it. I have switched the hub on it so it now has a front brake.
Both of thees wheels were powder coated back when I was first working on the bike.
Wheel Automotive tire Wood Tire Rim

The original bike had a large pulley that fit onto the outside of the rear wheel and was driven by a "V" belt. The hub that I had used for the rear wheel came off the front wheel of a newer motorcycle so the other side of the hub has a smooth surface.

This engine uses a chain drive so I now need to add a sprocket to the rear wheel.
I machined out this aluminum adapter piece for the sprocket to fit onto.
Wood Tool Bicycle part Rim Composite material

This adapter has a boss on the left side that fits into the bearing hole in the rear wheel and a boss on the right side for the sprocket to fit onto.
Wood Automotive tire Gas Hardwood Rim

This is the smooth side of the rear wheel hub and it has the holes drilled into it for mounting the adapter piece.
.... The darker blemish on the hub is residue from the JB-weld that I used to form a mating surface between the curved surface of the hub and the inside surface of the adapter. I had put Vaseline on the hub to keep the JB-weld from sticking to it but it still left a stain on the surface.
Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim

The adapter fits snugly onto the outside of the hub and it has a bearing in it.
Wheel Tire Bicycle hub Bicycle tire Bicycle

Then the sprocket fits onto the adapter.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Bicycle tire Tread

Automotive tire Tableware Rim Gas Wood

This adapter will be fastened on with bolts from the inside of the hub.
However, because this hub came off a front wheel, the metal on the smooth side is only about 1/4 inch thick.
So I filled the inside of the hub with fiberglass cloth and resin so that it is now about 1 inch thick.
Food Automotive tire Water Fluid Tableware

This is the brake for the rear wheel.
Automotive tire Rim Gas Electric blue Wheel

And it fits onto the wheel to complete the wheel assembly.
Bicycle hub Wheel Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Tire

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay .. back to work on the bike......
On my last post, I had gotten the sprocket mounted onto the rear wheel.
The rear wheel is now mounted onto the frame.
Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim Crankset Bicycle frame

Tire Wheel Bicycle Bicycle tire Bicycle hub

Automotive tire Wood Gas Electrical wiring Auto part

For clearance for the new engine, about 1-1/2 inch had to be cut off the back of the flat plate that was the original engine mount on the bottom of the frame.
Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire

I started lining up the new engine in the frame and found that the oil drain plug is located right over the right frame tube.
So I cut a notch in the tube so I could get a socket up onto the drain plug.
A piece of flat steel is bent into shape and welded into the notch to close off the open ends of the frame tube.
Gas Wire fencing Wood Mesh Bicycle tire

Obviously this leaves only a very thin part of the frame tube left.
I bent a piece of steel tube and then cut the top portion of it off.
Hand Natural material Fish Animal product Quill

This piece is welded onto the side of the frame to add the needed strength back into the frame tube.
Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas Automotive tire

Tire Automotive tire Wood Plant Trunk

The engine is set in place and the bottom engine mount is tack welded in place.
Wheel Bicycle tire Crankset Tire Motor vehicle

Here you can see how the drain plug lines up with the notch in the frame.
Automotive tire Automotive exhaust Bumper Rim Automotive exterior

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The upper left engine mount is made up and welded to the frame.
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior

In order to be able to get the engine in and out of the frame, the right engine mounting bracket is going to have to be removable.
First I drilled two holes thru the right rear upright frame tube.
Then I put two pieces of small pipe into the holes and brazed them on both sides.
These are for the bolts to go thru for attaching the right engine mount to the frame.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Steering wheel Machine

The right engine mounting bracket is cut out and an extra strip of metal is added along the back edge to make it thicker.
Two holes are drilled and tapped into this thicker area that match the two bolt holes in the frame tube.
Tool Household hardware Composite material Nickel Metal

This mounting bracket is then bolted in place on the frame and the engine.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Bumper Automotive exterior

Automotive tire Wood Rim Automotive exterior Bicycle part

The engine is now bolted to the frame at the bottom and at the top.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Rim Fender

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The port for the exhaust pipe is kind of goofy on this engine.
It has a 1 inch diameter machined hole in the head with a larger counterbore that is about 1-1/8 inch deep from the surface for the mounting flange.
About 1/3 of that counterbore is machined off on one side for about 7/8 inch deep leaving a full round counterbore about 1/4 inch deep at the bottom.
I have already cut out an exhaust gasket and fit it into the bottom of the counterbore.
Automotive tire Wood Bumper Audio equipment Rim

This is the adapter piece that I've made up to fit into the counterbore.
The smaller turned down area on the right fits into the 1 inch exhaust hole and seals up against the exhaust gasket.
The larger machined area on the left is turned down to fit into the exhaust pipe that I'm using.
The rough area in the center is the depth of the counterbore.
Automotive tire Asphalt Gas Cylinder Household hardware

Here is how it looks on the engine.
I need to make a mounting flange that will fit over the turned down end for the pipe.
As you can see, there is only about a 1/16 inch step between the machined area and the un-machined area so the hole in the flange needs to be real close in size in order to hold this piece in place.
Motor vehicle Fixture Gas Trigger Wood

The easiest way for me to machine that hole in the mounting flange is to do it on the lathe.
Motor vehicle Machine tool Wood Rim Metalworking

The hole is bored out until the piece just slips into it freely with no slop.
Wood Gas Machine tool Engineering Machine

The two bolt holes are drilled into the flange plate and it is marked where to cut it out.
Wood Tool Gas Road surface Bumper

Here are the two pieces fastened in place.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior

A short piece of the exhaust pipe is fit onto the adapter piece and welded to it on the inside.
Clearance is left for the mounting flange to be able to rotate around for lining up the exhaust.
Finger Gas Thumb Nickel Auto part

The engine is set back in the frame and I'm starting to make up the exhaust pipe.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Bumper

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I want the exhaust pipe to look similar the the original straight pipe exhaust on the Servi-Cycles.
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Plant Bicycle tire

I'm going to use this aluminum tube from an old vacuum cleaner for the exhaust tailpipe.
Fish Wood Tail

It is 1-1/2 inch diameter on the outside and the exhaust header pipe that is already on the engine is 1-1/4 inch diameter so I need to make an adapter.
The original bikes had a large round, can type muffler mounted in front of the engine with the straight pipe running back from that.

I turned down one end of a piece of steel pipe so the aluminum pipe will fit onto it.
Then I turned the end down so a motorcycle exhaust snuffer fits onto it.
This will be the muffler.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Gas

The other end is bored out so it will fit over the 1-1/4 diameter exhaust pipe.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Gas Bumper

The adapter is welded onto the exhaust pipe and the snuffer is welded to the end of the adapter to make up the header pipe. This is then painted.
Plant Wood Automotive exterior Grass Bumper

The header pipe is bolted onto the engine and the aluminum tailpipe is fit onto it.
I still have to make the support strap that will fasten to the tailpipe and bolt to the frame.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Asphalt Rim

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Before I make the rear exhaust pipe hanger, I need to mount the rear kickstand so I can make sure that the stand and the exhaust do not interfere with each other.
Saw Automotive tire Bicycle tire Tool Crankset

Tire Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Road surface

The pipe hanger is being made out of a piece of steel strap and it is heated up to form it into its round shape.
Automotive tire Wood Hand tool Metalworking hand tool Tool

Because this will be a tight fit around the exhaust pipe, I have to cut the strap at the bottom and weld a small hinge to it in order to be able to fit it around the pipe.
Wood Gas Flooring Composite material Auto part

Here is the finished hanger fastened in place.
Bicycle part Bumper Rim Tool Composite material

Checking everything with the kickstand in the down position.
Bicycle tire Bicycle fork Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle frame

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Fender

There is about 3/16 inch clearance between the spring on the kickstand and the hanger strap.
Automotive tire Light Bicycle fork Bicycle tire Bicycle frame

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Everything is a little bit of a problem today. .......

The seat is mounted on a flat steel spring that comes back over the top of the gas tank.
There is also a coil spring with the top of it bolted to the underside of the flat spring and the bottom bolted to a crossbar between the two rear frame tubes.

The rear frame tubes are at an angle and the crossbar mount for the spring needs to be level.
So I cut a piece of steel channel and bent both ends at an angle to the center of the channel.
Hand Hand tool Kitchen utensil Tool Tableware

This piece is then welded in between the two frame tubes and this gives a flat level surface to bolt the bottom of the coil spring to.
Automotive tire Coil Motor vehicle Coil spring Gas

Here is how it looks with the seat fastened on.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire

Next to work on is the rear fender.
This has 26 inch wheels and bicycle tires will fit on the rims.
The old 26 inch bicycles used 26x1.75 or 26x2.125 tires.
The Servi-cycle uses 26x2.5 tires and that is what I have on it.

I do not have the original Servi-cycle fenders but I do have a set of fenders off a 26 inch bicycle from back in the 50's or 60's.
As you can see though, they will not fit over the larger tires on the bike.
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle

So I used my stretcher/shrinker to stretch the metal out a little all along both sides of the fenders.
Plumbing fixture Wood Valve Plumbing valve Plumbing

Now there is plenty of clearance between the fender and the tire.
Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle

The last problem is my own fault.
However, this gives me an opportunity to give a little shop tip here.

Normally, I don't brake taps very often because I have learned to rotate the tap about one turn and then reverse it to brake the thread chip before I continue tapping the hole.
When a tap starts getting hard to turn, it is time to throw it away. So take it out and get a new tap.

I'm drilling and tapping 5/16 holes for the fender mounting brackets and this tap started getting stiff just as it was about to brake thru.
There was only one or two turns and the tap would be thru so instead of taking it out and getting a new tap, I just kept on turning.
So now I have a tap that is broken off flush with the surface and I can't turn it out with a pliers or a hammer and punch.

Place an old nut over the broken tap.
Then center the welding tip over the nut and pull the trigger.
Bicycle Crankset Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle tire Bicycle frame

Keep pulling the trigger until the nut is full of weld.
Let it cool off before you try to turn it.
Crankset Bicycle Vehicle brake Automotive tire Gear

Start with carefully rocking the nut back and forth until it will turn out.
Wood Bedrock Grey Flooring Floor

Run a new tap thru and this leaves a nice clean threaded hole.
Crankset Gear Bicycle chain Bicycle part Rim

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I made up fender mounting brackets out of 1/2x1/8 strap steel.
Wheel Tire Bicycle Bicycle tire Bicycle frame

This is a heavy duty rear luggage rack from a 20 inch bicycle.
The front of it is fastened to a piece of flat steel that I made up and is bolted to the fender.
Because this rack was on a 20 inch bike, the rear mounting brackets are not long enough to reach all the way down to the frame.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle tire Motor vehicle

I have added front mounting brackets to the luggage rack.
Metal Composite material Electric blue Fashion accessory Aluminium

The front brackets bolt to the frame and the rear brackets bolt to the side of the fender mounting brackets.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire

The fender brackets are double thickness where the luggage rack fastens to them.
Bicycle tire Automotive tire Crankset Vehicle Bicycle wheel

Here is how it looks with the seat on.
Bicycle Wheel Tire Crankset Bicycle frame

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Like most hard-tail motorcycles, the rear fender has to be removed in order to remove the rear wheel.
With the luggage rack bolted to the fender, it and the fender are removed together as a unit.
Bicycle tire Bicycle fork Bicycle part Tool Bumper

I have taken one of those chrome - copper sink water lines that I have and formed it to fit along the inside of the fender.
It sticks out thru a hole in the fender at each end to run the electrical wires thru for the tail light.
This tube is brazed to the inside of the fender.
Bicycle Bicycle wheel rim Wheel Tire Bicycle tire

The fender is sand blasted and primed.
Shoe Bicycle tire Wood Automotive tire Bicycle part

The fender is remounted on the bike and the tail light it bolted on.
Tire Wheel Crankset Bicycle frame Bicycle tire

The tube for the wires to go into comes out of the front of the fender a few inches below the fender mount.
Automotive tire Wood Fender Automotive exterior Bumper

Here is the aftermarket tail light and license plate mount.
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive tail & brake light Tire Wheel

This is the tail light and license plate light.
Automotive lighting Automotive tail & brake light Fluid Automotive parking light Amber

The stop light.
Automotive lighting Gas Fire Heat Headlamp

And both lights.
Automotive lighting Amber Headlamp Gas Glass

2,386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How about a little history on these bikes.
Here are a couple of old adds for them when they were being built back in the 30's, 40's and 50's.
Tire Wheel Bicycle Bicycle wheel Bicycle tire

This one shows them being used as delivery and utility vehicles.
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting

This is a photo from inside the factory.
Motor vehicle Art Wheel Machine Vehicle

I seam to remember seeing a photo of a Western Union office with a few of these bikes lined up at the curb in front of it but I haven't been able to come across that photo again.

I did find some photos of these bikes being used my the military during the war.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Because these bikes were used a lot by businesses for making delivery's, I wanted to do that with this bike.
Some time ago I had picked up this aluminum chest. It is 30 inch long, 17 inch wide and 20 inch tall.
This has a tray that fits into the top of the chest that is sectioned off for holding smaller items.
Underneath the tray is a big open space for larger items.
I thought that this would be just the thing to add onto the bike as a sidecar box for holding packages to be delivered.
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Over the years, I have had four motorcycles with a sidecar on them and I know that adding a sidecar to a bike puts a lot of extra strain on the front forks so this is my main reason for not wanting to use the original forks.

I have two front forks. The blue one on the left is the fork that I've had on the bike.
It looks to be in better condition than the silver fork but they both need work.
The silver fork is missing the headlight bracket and the center steering post.
The springs on these forks are only 5/8 diameter on the outside and I don't think they are strong enough to handle the extra weight of the larger engine and a sidecar.
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My intention is to use parts from these to build my own forks and restore one of them to sell.
They are both taken apart to see just what I have to work with.
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The pins on the front fork tubes that the springs ride on, slide up and down thru a hole in the metal plate and do not have a guide bushing on them.
You can see that the pins on the blue fork are worn a lot more then the pins on the silver fork.

So .. I'll use the blue front tubes for my fork because I won't be using the stock pins and I'll put the silver front tubes with the blue fork.
I'll also put the sliver springs with the blue fork because the blue springs are rusted badly.
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The right upper tube is rusted on the blue fork so I'll have to repair that and I'll also have to repair the worn out holes in the upper plate that the pins slide up and down thru.

The lower crossbar bracket on the silver fork that the center steering tube was fastened to is bent but it can easily be straightened and another steering tube welded to it so I can use that for my fork.
You can see that the fork down tubes on the silver fork are both bent off the the right so the only thing I can use off them is about 4 inches of the bottom of the tubes that is pressed together to form the mount for the rocker arms.
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Originally, these bikes had a flat metal plate that bolted onto the top of the forks and the handlebar bolted onto that plate.
The handlebar was painted and not chrome like they are on most motorcycles .
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I'm using a regular chrome handlebar and you can see that the knurled area on the handlebar for the mounting clamps is closer together then the tubes on the Servi-cycle fork.
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I'm making my own down tubes for the fork and the upper part is being bent to curve them in to fit the spacing of the mounts for the chrome handlebar.
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Here are my two down tubes.
They will be welded into the lower crossbar bracket from the silver fork and have the bottom ends of the silver fork tubes welded onto them.
This will give me the correct width between the forks at the bottom for the front wheel and the correct width at the top for the handlebar mounts.
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