Assuming the 15amp regulator fits in the same hole on the cooling shroud, I assume you could just bolt on the 15amp stator in place of the 10amp, bolt on the 15amp regulator and go. Probably the same flywheel.
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I’ve been spending any spare time I get continuing to sand blast, clean, prime and paint parts. Here’s a couple parts that are finished. Sandblasting the parts is totally worth it and makes a great surface for painting. The black Rustoleum looks awesome, but only time will tell how it holds up.
As you can see, I’ve already blasted the air filter cover. I’ve been waiting to prime and paint that until it warms up a bit outside. It gets painted with Deere green paint and I want to make sure the temps outside are good before I start playing with that.
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As you can see, I’ve already blasted the air filter cover. I’ve been waiting to prime and paint that until it warms up a bit outside. It gets painted with Deere green paint and I want to make sure the temps outside are good before I start playing with that.
I’ve been pretty busy lately with other commitments so I haven’t had as much time to work on the tractor, but I’ve still got things cooking. One item I’ve been working on is this heat shield for the top of the engine. It had quite a bit of pitting on it after sandblasting the rust away. I know this is a little over-the-top, but I’m a perfectionist and know it’ll bother me if I don’t fix it. I’ve been priming, wet sanding, then re-priming to fill in the pits. Hopefully they’ll hold up over time with normal use.
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We’ve also started fiberglassing the hood. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the original owner may have busted up the leading edge of the hood at some point and used body filler to rebuild it. In the one photo below, that is body filler that is cracking and there’s very little fiberglass underneath it. They did a good job blending the paint, but they would’ve been much better off redoing the fiberglass. So overall the hood will take more work than originally anticipated. I will hand sand everything after building up the fiberglass to get the contours right.
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After honing the cylinder for a while, measuring and re-measuring, we decided it was time to take the block to a machine shop. The cylinder was too far out of round and it seemed like the best thing to do. The valve seats needed ground anyway and the head needed flattened, neither of which did we have the tools to accomplish. We got the block back and it looks fantastic. The cylinder is already honed, the valves seats were ground and the valves were ground to match. On top of all that, the block is way cleaner than it was when we gave it to them. All in it cost $233, which may be a little steep, but it was well worth the time saved and the tools I would’ve had to buy to do it myself. My goal this week is to get the block painted and primed and ready to start some of the reassembly.
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Today was a productive day. Did a lot of sandblasting, got some painting done, set the valve tappet clearance, and put the rings on the piston. One surprising find of the day was in the pic below. When looking at the old piston, I noticed a very dirty and difficult to see marking on the face of it that said .010. It seems that this motor was rebuilt at some point in the first 10 years of its life. This was a huge surprise to us as we assumed it was all still stock.
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This week I received a 15amp stator in the mail. Based off some reading online and advice on this forum, I had assumed it would be a pretty straightforward swap since the 10amp stator is no longer manufactured. Unfortunately this is not the case. The 15 amp stator is approximately 1” larger in diameter. The 10 amp stator that was in it sat inside the flywheel pretty snugly and the 15 amp, due to being much larger, will not fit inside of it. Pictures below for reference. The old stator did still work so we will just move forward with the old one and I’ll have to return the new one I got.
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Finally sprayed my first green part today! Turned out pretty good, we’ll see how it looks in a couple days. I did this first photo to compare the original color that was on the tractor with modern JD Ag & Turf Green. Keep in mind that the factory paint is extremely old and this thing sat in the sun for a long time. There’s no gloss to it anymore so it’s a little harder to compare. Overall, I’d say it’s pretty darn close to the original and I’ll plan on continuing to use the Ag & Turf paint for the rest of the project!
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Very productive day today again. Got the crankshaft put in, bearing plate with bearing, oil seal, piston assembly, stator, and a few other things. Also painted the oil pan and part of the clutch assembly. The bearing plate didn’t appear to have been painted from the factory, so I polished it up using White Diamond polish/sealant to make it shine a bit more.
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