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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on a 1971 montgomery ward's that was sitting for 10 years. The machine seems to be in decent shape but mice were living in the blower housing. They chewed the coil wires but thats easy to find . The bottom of the blower housing has rusted away and im having a problem finding one. I dont want to spend the 150-200 that they want for a new one. Can anyone help me find an inexpensive option? Im thinking used would be the way to go.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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1976 Sears SS18, 2008 JD 2320
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Mice can make an incredible mess of power equipment, especially when they take up a long term lease in your engine. That’s about the worst I’ve seen. The acid from their urine seems to promote rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was a machine sitting for 10 years. Surprisingly the cooling fins have no damage. The machine had a little rust on the flywheel and coil. The rodents chewed on a wire from the coil and of course the shround is toast. All in all it was in in better shape than I thought for a machine thats been sitting outside or in a barn for 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Today I'll order a carb kit and a coil for electronic ignition for the machine. The wire that hooks up to the old coil has 12+ when ignition is on but need to figure out how to get the new coil to work. Can I just switch the coil to change this to electronic ignition or do I need to add anything else? I was told that I only need to add a modern coil and do not connect to points. Is this correct?
 

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Has the ignition switch been replaced? It sounds like somebody may have swapped in a battery ignition-style switch. There should be no tractor voltage going to any part of the ignition system as it's a self-powered magneto. The only wire coming from the ignition switch should be a kill (ground) wire at the points box.

What you were told is correct, however you need to connect the above mentioned kill wire to the new coil if you want it to shut off with the key. Regardless, the ignition still shouldn't have any voltage going to it. Personally, I would not go with a Magnetron coil on one of these tractors. It's a lot easier to service the points/condenser than to remove the engine in order to gain access the all-in-wonder coil. It also kills the originality.
 

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1976 Sears SS18, 2008 JD 2320
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I’ll second what Turnlos said. If you are familiar with a points system it’s pretty easy to troubleshoot and keep running once you get a good set of components in the tractor - points, condenser, coil and wiring. There are no mystery boxes to confound you when troubleshooting, it’s all there in the wiring diagram. You should inspect and consider replacing all the wiring in the circuit because often on a 60yr old tractor there can be issues with bad connections or insulation breakdown / abrasion that can short out to the chassis. Those issues will show up and bite you when you start putting the tractor to work. Any electrical component, including wire, that has done it’s duty for 60 years is going beyond it’s normal service life so should be suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Has the ignition switch been replaced? It sounds like somebody may have swapped in a battery ignition-style switch. There should be no tractor voltage going to any part of the ignition system as it's a self-powered magneto. The only wire coming from the ignition switch should be a kill (ground) wire at the points box.

What you were told is correct, however you need to connect the above mentioned kill wire to the new coil if you want it to shut off with the key. Regardless, the ignition still shouldn't have any voltage going to it. Personally, I would not go with a Magnetron coil on one of these tractors. It's a lot easier to service the points/condenser than to remove the engine in order to gain access the all-in-wonder coil. It also kills the originality.
I agree. I would keep it a points system. It would seem like a better system on this application. However, I am fixing it for my boss and even though points and condenser are working, he wants magnetron coil to bypass what I believe is the better ignition system. Ok, he's paying for parts and labor
 

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Down at the points you should have 2 wires. 1 runs up to your old coil and the other one runs up to your switch. The one that goes up to your switch is the kill wire. It basically grounds out the points when you turn the key to the Off position and shuts the engine off.

You can either pull both wires off of the points and hook the 1 to your new coil or disconnect them from your points and wire them together. Leave the points on the engine so that the points plunger doesn't push out and cause an oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Down at the points you should have 2 wires. 1 runs up to your old coil and the other one runs up to your switch. The one that goes up to your switch is the kill wire. It basically grounds out the points when you turn the key to the Off position and shuts the engine off.

You can either pull both wires off of the points and hook the 1 to your new coil or disconnect them from your points and wire them together. Leave the points on the engine so that the points plunger doesn't push out and cause an oil leak.
Thank you for this si.ple expkanation. I tend to forget some things if im not using them often
 

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Today I'll order a carb kit and a coil for electronic ignition for the machine. The wire that hooks up to the old coil has 12+ when ignition is on but need to figure out how to get the new coil to work. Can I just switch the coil to change this to electronic ignition or do I need to add anything else? I was told that I only need to add a modern coil and do not connect to points. Is this correct?
Buy the electronic coil and a new carb. Look at tartlet fixes all on utube for his converting B&S points ignition to electric module. He turns the module to face backwards. It’s works great I use this on my MW/ Gilson tractors
 
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