What color of wire goes on the small screw stud on the solenoid? Also, what is correct procedure to check if solenoid is bad? I know there is a way to jump it with screwdriver to tell but not sure of procedure. Should key be on or off when jumping with screwdriver?
What color of wire goes on the small screw stud on the solenoid?
BEFORE we get to that have you checked and verified the battery ground and positive connections are tight/ clean?? If not, clean them & retry..
A: The big wires are usually Red. One to the Battery Pos terminal and the other goes to the Starter. The small wires vary in color by model/ manufacturer. The Safety Interlocks on a JD 214 are the tranny in N and the PTO Switch off. Hook a test lite up to a good ground (test on the batt + terminal) and with the switches in the correct position turn the key to Start. If there is one small wire to the Sol it should light the light (12 V+ present) and your wiring /interlocks are good. If not the start circuit has a problem. Fire back if it is..
*Now if the solenoid clicks but no start the solenoid could be bad or the starter.
To rule out the solenoid take a big screwdriver or old pair of pliers and place it directly between the large wire lugs. The starter should turn and **beware the sparks that will fly.. If the starter turns the solenoid is your problem. Replace it.
Also, what is correct procedure to check if solenoid is bad? I know there is a way to jump it with screwdriver to tell but not sure of procedure. Should key be on or off when jumping with screwdriver? It should be off as you don't want the thing to start while you are near the engine messing around IMO. Jumping the solenoid will crank the starter as it bypasses both the solenoid and the key switch & start circuit.
Thank u sir. It's a new wiring harness, new ignition switch, I bypassed all the safety switches. Tractor ran, but here lately sometimes it would turn over and run and sometimes nothing when I turned the key.Im gonna try the jumping solenoid trick and I will let u know. Thanks
Update: So with key in off position I jumped solenoid with screwdriver and it turned over. I then tried it with the key 3 or 4 times with success. Then on about the 5th time with the key, nothing at all. No crank. I didn't try the solenoid jump but I assume it probably would have worked. So does this mean the solenoid is going bad?
No, I think the key switch is going bad or a bad connection on the back of the key switch, you can confirm by doing the screw driver a couple of times more than just once. Then do it by the key switch a few more times.
No, I think the key switch is going bad or a bad connection on the back of the key switch, you can confirm by doing the screw driver a couple of times more than just once. Then do it by the key switch a few more times.
It's a brand new ignition switch? And yes I did the screwdriver thing on the solenoid about 10 times and every time it cranked over with key being in off position. Brand new wiring harness too and like I said tractor was working fine and this issue came up.
I've bought bad parts off the shelf before.. It happens..
Hook your test lite up to a good ground and place it on the Start wire connector on your new switch and make sure the light lights up every time you turn it to start. If it doesn't your switch is bad..
I'd figure an ignition switch would either work or not? I have a test light but not real familiar with how they work. Has the light bulb in the handle part and at the other end is an alligator clamp. I may have another ignition switch I can try. Thanks for the suggestions.
Tractor cranked over with key about 8 times straight then nothing. Turned key to on position and jumped solenoid and it tried to start so I guess that means solenoid is bad?
I'd figure an ignition switch would either work or not? I have a test light but not real familiar with how they work. Has the light bulb in the handle part and at the other end is an alligator clamp. I may have another ignition switch I can try. Thanks for the suggestions.
If the problem is so frequent it should be easy to trace out with the test light.. Follow the start circuit from the key to the interlocks all the way to the solenoid and you will find your problem without just randomly replacing parts and hoping it will work.. Just sayin..
If the problem is so frequent it should be easy to trace out with the test light.. Follow the start circuit from the key to the interlocks all the way to the solenoid and you will find your problem without just randomly replacing parts and hoping it will work.. Just sayin..
Took everyone's advice and traced the problem down with test light. Lyall (Glen) suggested to check circuit breaker too and that was the culprit. Tractor would crank several times and then nothing. Apperntly fuse was getting hot and would trip and then when it cooled down it would reset, letting it crank again. Pesky lil bugger!
Thanks all!
PS: bought a new 20 amp breaker at Napa for $3.99 and tractor runs fine now.
Thats good in my book, plastic ages and then cracks, I like replacements parts of good quality! John Deere I believe the replacements are now plastic. Have to go check my spares, yep plastic!
Listen to these guys, I was frustrated as heck doing the same thing as you. Turned out the brand new ignition switch I bought was bad...
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