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I'll see what I can find for you.

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Here are the two different types for the Bolens Large Frames.

This is for the early ones, and there really isn't a lift link as such. It is welded to the arm and each arm is connected to a lift rod from the rockshaft.

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These are pics on the one for the HT series large frames. It's a more 'traditional' type 3-pt hitch.

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I've made them for my PK"s. Just get 1/2" or thicker flat stock metal, and order the balls seperately from tractor catalogs to weld on ends. You can bend them some if you wanted dog-leg or at least at the tractor mount end slightly. I used 5/8" balls on mine. Need a bolt or pivot on tractor somewhere to mount one end. The lift links can be made and mounted by a pin and hole in the arm where it seems best. There is a place on web that has 3pt hitch kits and parts to buy, might google search that or maybe someone here has the link? Biggest issue is making the rockshaft to lift it all and connect to lever or linkage on tractor. Don't know what brand you have, but if hitch was made for it, can you find pictures or diagrams in manuals and kinda copy what it originally had? I'ld look at that first.
 

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i am building a GT atm & are looking for suggestions & pic's for better options & thank you for the tips on the lift arms

as for the eyes ( uni balls ) about 5/8 11/16 hole ,i have 3 already from kerbside just got to buy 1 more from Machinery sales local town to me

chassis rails are 12" from the ground & 20 "s total width 4x2"

still 11"s from the diff at rear as i have not cut them off yet for options

Camera dead sorry

so the lift arms are just below & rear to the diff for lift & safe traction ,

can they be mounted rear but same height as the diff center ??

as i was thinking of using the chassis box section to mount the lift arms in the end of, or will it be to high for tools & unpractical ?

P.S. good butt photos so far (ty= thank you )all

Shane
 

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now for the moment i have done this , as i never had 1/2 " stock i only had 7/16th x 2 "so thats what i am using for the moment

but the eyes ( uniballs ) were 3/4" holes so i drilled to 5/8 & sleeved them for the tractor mount's as i never had another pin to suit both eyes

but am using holes for the attachments other wise i have to change all the attachment pins to longer 1's, that's 8 pins to change .......................... not happening yet

OldBuzzard i like the drop arms as they are both adjustable for more variation

Rusty , with that Sears manual lift kit does it have various height settings plz ?

Shane
 

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The Sears lift (Rusty) is either all the way up or down. Nothing in between!
 
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Rusty , with that Sears manual lift kit does it have various height settings plz ?
As kenny said it doesn't have any "hold" positions but I have found this lift makes it very easy to micro manage for things such as grading because pushing down on the handle puts more down pressure or lifting slightly reduces pressure or you can slightly lift it if needed.My father in law observed that the Sears done a better job grading his long drive than his 8N Ford because I could so nicely micro manage the blade by hand more precisely than he could with his hydraulic lift.
 

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Here is a picture of the ones I built for a Massey 10HP.
Dan, can you get a better pic of that RH one with the crank on top? I'd like to see how you made that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ty every 1 for the photos & the help , much appreciated , so i have went Sears in principal but adding a side drift multi height adjust for it which i can hold out to micro adjust for fine tuning work ( same principle as a rider deck height adjust idea )

but still have to make a top linkage for it as i'm using a regular turn buckle while setting it up for the moment , just to hold it in place
 
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