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tinkerer
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2,329 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When you finish one project it's time to get to work on another one. .....

A little while ago Jim knutson and I traded steering systems for the Bean Cutler tractors.
He had a cable steering system that I wanted and I had a chain steering system that he wanted so we swapped.

These are the parts that I got from him.

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These parts are all painted and ready for mounting.

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Jerome Wilber just bought a Bean Cutler also and I'm waiting for it to be delivered to him so he can give me photos and measurements for the cable before I can finish the steering on my tractor.

In the mean time, there is a problem that I need to correct.
This Bean Cutler has the flat belt drive and I completely understand why the factory changed that drive system over to the three V-belt drive system.

The flat belt will slip on the engine drive pulley about 1/3ed up a hill that the Ridemaster with the V-belt drive will run right up and over without any effort.

So the first thing to do was to remove the engine from the tractor.

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I'm going to put this section of 4 inch rubber on the drive pulley for the flat belt to ride on instead of riding on the metal.
The rubber hose is for connecting the air tubes on larger turbo charged engines.

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I took the pulley off the engine and removed the reversing disc from both sides.

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The drive pulley is chucked up in the lathe.

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The outside diameter is turned down so the rubber hose can be pressed over it.
This leaves the surface flat across pulley.

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With the lathe tool set at 5 degrees, I turn down both sides of the pulley so it now has a center crown.

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With the reversing disc slipped back on, you can see how much was removed from the diameter of the pulley.

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I'm using automotive weatherstrip adhesive to glue the rubber onto the pulley.

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You can see that I got plenty of glue on as it is pressed out both ends.

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The excess glue is cleaned off with thinner before the glue dries.

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I cut most of the extra rubber off with a tin snips.
The pulley is set on the wood heater for a while so the glue will dry faster.

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Then the rest of the rubber easily trimmed off with a razor knife.

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I need to put in two holes in the rubber so I can get to the set screws.
Trying to drill a clearance hole in rubber really doesn't work very well because the hole just closes back up when you pull the drill bit out.
I use a sharpened piece of steel rod and heat it up until it is read hot.
Then I push the rod thru the rubber and it leaves a nice clean hole.

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Even with the rubber is glued on I still want to lock it in place to be sure it doesn't slip on the pulley.
Four holes are drilled and tapped at even spaces around the pulley.

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A dab of glue is pressed into each hole.

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Then a screw is threaded into each hole.

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Each screw is threaded in until the head is countersunk below the surface of the rubber.

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The reversing discs are re-installed on the pulley and the pulley is mounted back on the engine.

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Then the engine is put back on the tractor.
I don't think I'll have any more problem with the belt slipping so easily now.

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Squeaky Wheel
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7,446 Posts
Wow Ray, that is a lot of work towards reworking it. I am guessing you were really struggling with it trying to load it up on the trailer for shows?
 

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tinkerer
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2,329 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow Ray, that is a lot of work towards reworking it. I am guessing you were really struggling with it trying to load it up on the trailer for shows?
It went up on the trailer with no problem.

The problem was it wouldn't take some of the dirt hills at the Buckley shows with a passenger being pulled on the cart.

The Ridemasters have no problem going anywhere I want to go.
 

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Super Moderator
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54,022 Posts
That sounds like a good fix for the drive belt. I guess you will find out soon enough how much it helped. Thanks for taking us along on this.

I see you answered while I was typing! Glad it helped.
 
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Squeaky Wheel
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7,446 Posts
I see. So you won't get to really test it until you get the steering switched around will you. Great remedy though, should work out well.
 

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Premium Member
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136 Posts
looking good Ray, i hope that the steering cable on Jerome's new machine is in tact, as that will be better than measuring the broken one i have. that tractor is real sharp, and great job on the drive belt work.
 

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Old Tractor Addict
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1,846 Posts
Nice fix Ray, I would expect that to be a big improvement.
 
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Registered
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10,070 Posts
You do beautiful work and excellant documentation. I'd like to know more about the lathe. I also want to share an experience. The conveyor belt on my screening plant broke. I had the same trouble drilling it for the splice. I then realized that an Irwin wood bit would do the job. It works very well as long as you drill though into wood.
 

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tinkerer
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2,329 Posts
When I traded steering parts with Jim there was a question as to whether or not the shaft for the steering wheel was the same between a tractor with the cable steering and a tractor with the chain steering.
It turns out that they are the same.
The cable steering wheel assembly fit right on to my tractor's steering post.

The steering wheel and steering pulley are mounted up and the throttle and engine lift cables are fastened back in place.
All that's left to do is make up the steering cable.

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Elf guardian
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7,712 Posts
Great fix on that pulley Ray. Very ingenious.

I'd think that rubber will be on there a looooong time.

One thing I noticed, is in the 21st picture.

All your wrenches lined up on the bench in order.

You're too darned organized. :D

Just kidding. I'm about the same. I like to find what I need, when

I want it.
 

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Super Moderator
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54,022 Posts
It's good you could change it back to factory steering. Looking good!
 
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tinkerer
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2,329 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's good you could change it back to factory steering. Looking good!
Yes it is. ... I'm very glad that Jim wanted to trade parts with me.

Parts for these Bean Cutlers aren't that hard to find out on the west coast but they are extremely scarce in the areas around Michigan.
 
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