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Well, here's a shot of the now-running and somewhat useful 1220. It's a bit ratty, but it runs nicely and is proving to be quite useful around our little farm. I've removed the hydraulics as most of the linkages are missing. Besides, this is a runabout for the wife so the hydraulics aren't really needed anyhow.

Now a question about the drive pin: this one keeps working its way out when traveling over rough ground, causing the tractor to stop moving and requiring the driver to push it back in. I looked at the 1220 parts manual and it doesn't show any ball detent or other retention mechanism. How is the drive pin latched into the drive position so it won't work its way loose?
 

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Old, but not dead -- yet!
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Here's a good close up of the freewheeling pin and the clip.
In OB's pic, the roll pin (just to the left of the head of the free-wheeling pin) has been sheared off or driven in too far.

The roll pin extends approx. 1/2" out from the hub casting, and retains the free-wheeling pin so that it can not fall out of the casting.

There are two holes in the free-wheeling pin to accept the hairpin clip. .....The hairpin clip can lock the free-wheeling pin in the engaged, or dis-engaged, positions.
 

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Now if you have a trac which the pin is missing along with a broken casting. What can you do??

Sure I have a couple which need looking at in this dept

Thanks
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Now if you have a trac which the pin is missing along with a broken casting. What can you do??

Sure I have a couple which need looking at in this dept

Thanks
Make or buy a new pin the correct diameter and drill it for the clip in the proper two locations is one way to fix the missing pin problem. If the problem with the hub casting is that the ear is broke a new ear can be welded on - I did one on a 1050 about three years using the mig welder - put a copper pipe bushing in the location the hole went and built up the tab with the mig and then shaped the slit and tab using a die grinder. I have also seen people use a hose clamp around the hub to hold the pin in the drive position.
 

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Tractorholic
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Wow, Stew, I never thought of that! Nice repair!
 
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A Little Off Plumb
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Wow, Stew, I never thought of that! Nice repair!
Thanks. When I got the tractor the collar was broke as you can see in the first picture and worked fine for several years and the pin stayed engaged since there was still a little bit of the ear left to hold the clip. Was blowing snow one winters day and got in a bit of a hurry and was going a bit too fast and bounced off a frozen snow bank. Shifted into reverse and tried to back up but the tractor would not move. Figured I broke a key somewhere or damaged something inside the transaxle so I pushed the tractor back to the shop as it would move a little bit without me on it - acted like something was slipping badly. I got it into the shop, removed the snow blower and jacked the rear end up to start removing the tire chains in anticipation of having to tear into the rear end. Just happened to look at the drive pin and saw that it had become disengaged from the jolt of hitting the snow bank. Engaged the pin and the tractor moved under its own power without any slipping. I used a hose clamp to hold it in place for the rest of the winter and fixed the tab in the spring. That day I learned at least two things - Bolens are very tough and hard to break and sometimes I am stupid!
 
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