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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been working on my 1655 in hopes of taking it to plow day this year. It's starting and running from the key now. Hydraulics work great and it moves although haven't actually been on it to drive. Just small forward and back in the shop.

Main question is about the pedal and linkage. My pedal is pretty much loose. Doesn't center itself. If I want this thing to stay in one place without having a foot holding it in neutral, I have to switch the range selector to neutral. I'm guessing I'm missing some kind of spring or something? Any thoughts?

Eric
 

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Nut Case
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1,940 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After looking at the agco parts books online, I see there is a neutral return spring and an adjusting setup. I'm gonna head back out to the shop and see what I have. Although I see it on the diagram, can someone post a pic of the real deal. May be easier to tell what's missing or hopefully just misadjusted.

Eric
 

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Hope this helps. None in the shop to take a pic for ya. Remove the tunnel cover and it's right there on the left hand side. Might be easier from the underside. Good luck.
 

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It is probably the weird spring that's at the top left corner of the picture. I've had one fail through the years.
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is this something that can be obtained through an agco dealer? I haven't made it to the shop. Been reading through a couple more threads on here about the drive systems.

Eric
 

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I have no idea, luckily I had a spare off a parts tractor. If it is this spring, 1450 up uses the same spring.
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well here are some pics I just took. There's nothing connecting the pedal to the speed control system on the other side. Not real sure what I'm missing here. I took some pics but they're pretty terrible.

uploadfromtaptalk1459043934628.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1459043951819.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1459044043669.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1459044051531.jpg
 

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Nut Case
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1,940 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
uploadfromtaptalk1459044707242.jpg

Think I just found my charging issue haha!!
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's another pic from the top. I see all the springs intact and essentially functioning. Seems the pedal operates the direction lever on one side of the pump. The brake/neutral pedal on the opposite side also attaches into the side of the pump but does not seem to affect the travel pedal. These springs and neutral linkage are doing nothing. Could something be broke internally or is there some external linkage I'm missing here?

Eric
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
uploadfromtaptalk1459051061155.jpg

Forgot the pic.

Eric
 

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Nut Case
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So, been reading some more. I'm guessing I have a busted internal roll pin. So, looks as if I'm getting into this pump. I've never worked on one of these internally. Hoping this won't be too tough of a repair. Now I'm wondering if I'll be able to take to plow day Friday. May have to concentrate on other things first to make sure the others are 100%. Any advice from the experienced here would be appreciated.

Eric
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Yes, your internal roll pin has definitely sheared or moved out of place.
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
uploadfromtaptalk1460337445261.jpg

Well, as you can see the pump is out a disassembled. Need to upgrade my punches before I go any further. I don't want to booger anything up here. I know I've read people made their gasket but does anyone have a source for a set? I've done some googling, but haven't had much luck.

Eric

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, new pin is installed. Since I haven't really come up with much on the gasket end, I plan to just make some. Does anyone know of thickness will matter? Seems the factory ones were pretty thin.

Eric

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Lime, one last thought when you do tear down the hydro and replace the roll pins do NOT be tempted to use one one each side. Use 2 per side so they can be removed at a later date. The article I wrote is long and it will take longer to read it than actually overhaul a unit. But its from the lessons i learned going through one
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does anyone have any measurements or a source for the roller and spacer (#27 and #28 on agco diagram) for the neutral return. It rides in the slot on the brake side of the setup. Mine never had one. Looks like something I can make. I just don't know what size i need.

Eric
 

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Nut Case
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well after looking at the linkage setup, I was able to figure out the diameter I needed for the roller. Came up with this.

uploadfromtaptalk1464829686460.jpg

Cut from an old crank stub cutting. Just grinded it down a little to fit nicely in the slots. Finished assembling the linkage and now waiting on some replacement isolator mounts from a fellow member.

Eric

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Nut Case
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Little update....

While assembling the engine side I noticed a major issue. The front tab on the engine cradle was broke. Explains a noise I heard before while it was running. Had to reweld that and went ahead and welded the other side some considering they were only welded on one side. Here's a pic.
uploadfromtaptalk1465096851792.jpg
Pic of the linkage together and pump in.
uploadfromtaptalk1465096870405.jpg

I had pulled the oil pan thinking the sound was a rod letting loose. They feel great. Tore the gasket in the process. Went ahead and cut another since I want to mount this tonight.
uploadfromtaptalk1465096887739.jpg
Also, someone had used some rtv on some top gaskets along with the filter adapter. For anyone reading that likes that stuff, the oil pump pickup screen had a decent amount on it that was floating around. Stay away from it.

I was able to set and mount the cradle. Then planned don bolting the engine in. Makes it easier setting the drive shaft since it pivots on the cradle. Getting closer to running and mounting the Johnson loader I have. Let's hope I don't find anymore suprises.

Eric

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Nut Case
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Engine is back in and runs. Still need to sort the choke cable. There's no bracket on the carb for me to attach it too. As you can see in the pic,
uploadfromtaptalk1465173883194.jpg
The pump bracket is also attached. This is a pump and mount from a Case tractor. Came off an onan powered machine show other than having to notch for the massey muffler support, was bolt on. Basically I'm adding the Case system to power the loader. I never got a PTO with this machine so it was a no brainner and quite simple, so far.

I ran it without the driveshaft hooked up. So, haven't had the chance to drive it. I just realized I failed to pick up a new hydro filter so driving will wait till tomorrow. Given I get off work in decent time.

Oh, and a little on the engine itself. When I worked on the engine and did the valve lash and decarbon. I went ahead and added some newer p220 heads. That raises the compression a tad and moves the spark plug to the center. What I forgot and realized what my pinging noise was, timing. The b43m calls for
.021 points gap where as the larger b48g calls for less. Somewhere around .017. Given this and the plug being closer to center of the combustion chamber, I adjusted my points to .016. That retards the timing some and made my pinging, aka detonation, go away.

Eric

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
 

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