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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I got the remains of the H16 up on the "operating" table to start the tear down. The hood, engine, seat & fender pan were off so had a start. Started at the front and worked towards the back. The pieces I wanted to keep went to the parts washer and were cleaned up as I went. Laid them out in the sun and wind to dry. Then on to the next piece. The complete hydraulic lift system with the filter block is all in good condition. Steering sector is junk but it does have a good steering wheel. Would not go under my 20T press so will have to find a larger press and I know right where there is one. The hydro fan is steel, not like a lot of the newer plastic ones. It is good also. After I got it all striped down I noticed the left tube is off set. Also the left side of the front axle is longer to compensate and make the front wheel track with the rear. Some of the pieces are spoken for already. The rest is up for grabs if anybody has use for them, price will be reasonable. With some luck and time I plan to build a dump box on the frame.

H16 frame-1.JPG H16 Frame-2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Be a good idea to put some grease in there and blank plate that rear end. With a little protection and a little lube, it will last a long, long time.
That red ring you see around the back end opening is gasket maker under 1/4" lexan. Bolted on as a cover plate. Filled with 80 - 90 Gear oil. Kind of neat to move it around and watch the gears do their work.

got some work ahead of you to build the dump trailer but your well on the way now.
Need to get the tongue figured out first. Then work on the box. Plan to use a 1-1/2" pipe for a hinge pin. Just want to keep it as low as possible.
 

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Looks like it should be an interesting project - could pull the pin out of the bolster and rotate the axle 180 degrees so that the tie rods are ahead of the axle - then you could bolt a plate to the hood hinge bolts or if you want a stronger connection weld a bracket to the top plate that the four bolts go through the tubes to mount the front drawbar to - just a suggestion.
 

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Did you say it will be a four wheel trailer? If so, how will you treat the front axle? will it become the rear axle so to speak and pivot on the steer axle sort of like rear wheel steering on a ladder truck? Will you fix the draw bar to the front axle so when it's pulled it will turn like a little red wagon? Or do you have some other plan for it? Or is it just going to be a two wheel trailer? Sorry if I'm making you repeat yourself but I forget now and I'm not sure how to find the other post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like it should be an interesting project - could pull the pin out of the bolster and rotate the axle 180 degrees so that the tie rods are ahead of the axle - then you could bolt a plate to the hood hinge bolts or if you want a stronger connection weld a bracket to the top plate that the four bolts go through the tubes to mount the front drawbar to - just a suggestion.
Kind of what I had in mind, reversing the front axle. That would make the steering part a lot easier. The original plate for the steering link would have to be extended at a right angle to work any way you go. Will get it figured out one way or another. Will keep taking photos and up dating as we go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you say it will be a four wheel trailer? If so, how will you treat the front axle? will it become the rear axle so to speak and pivot on the steer axle sort of like rear wheel steering on a ladder truck? Will you fix the draw bar to the front axle so when it's pulled it will turn like a little red wagon? Or do you have some other plan for it? Or is it just going to be a two wheel trailer? Sorry if I'm making you repeat yourself but I forget now and I'm not sure how to find the other post.
Yep, a 4 wheel trailer. Reverse the front axle end for end to get the tie rod in front. Mount the tongue under the center of the axle with a rod to the steering arm off the spindle. It will stay like an auto steer wagon, not a 5th wheel type. I have done this with a couple other riding mower frames and it works out good. The first flat bed wagon is about ready for a new bed. It is 28" wide and 54" long with removable ends.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Kenny made his from scratch and used the front spindles off a tractor. I am using the entire frame work, wheels, axle, etc. Adding a tongue and box on top.
 

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That red ring you see around the back end opening is gasket maker under 1/4" lexan. Bolted on as a cover plate. Filled with 80 - 90 Gear oil.
Lexan (polycarbonate plastic) is attacked by most petroleum-based products. .....It will craze and eventually crack.

Acrylic plastic (such as Plexiglass), although more brittle, will withstand the petroleum products.
 

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Lexan (polycarbonate plastic) is attacked by most petroleum-based products. .....It will craze and eventually crack.

Acrylic plastic (such as Plexiglass), although more brittle, will withstand the petroleum products.
I agree with your comment. I work with plastics every day. Polycarbinate will craze and crack with oil or loctite, especially were it is put under pressure like under and around bolts. I would use acrylic with a scratch resistant coating. Put the coated side out so you can clean it easier without it getting cloudy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I stand corrected. It is not Lexan. It is Plexiglas, left over piece form some window covers I built for a project. don' know why I said Lexan. It is more expensive and usually more flexible, though not much in 1/4" thickness. Thanks for the heads up on that.
 
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