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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently picked up this 48" Ariens blower for $200 Canadian. The sheet metal is rough but it runs very smooth & quiet considering it's age. I'll have to replace the bottom half of the blower, which is pretty much the same thickness as oil tank sheet metal and I have a ton of it here. It will just be time and little bit of material and of course making it fit the front of the 1655.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Have the blower setting in front and hooked up the PTO shaft. Runs really smooth considering the age of the blower. I’m thinking of going with a mount similar to this but only heavier and reversed with the flat in front and the angle towards the rear. Probably with the snap over latch. Just have to figure out a lift mechanism. Ignore the rusted mount leaning forward in the picture it was from a previous install they’ll be coming off. Where it sits here it is pretty level and the driveshaft is at a very slight angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Finally had a chance to get back at the blower mounts. Got them notched out for 3/4” pins. I’m going to knock out the 58” pins and switch them out for 3/4”. Probably should’ve tried to bring them back a little bit further as far as fulcrum point is concerned but I’d have to shorten the driveshaft as well, we’ll see how it lifts it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not much to report lately, I did manage to get a new set of shoes fabbed up. I have the measurements just have to make up the pieces for the blower mods then I’ll do the lift arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Got the blower converted over. Bolts are temporary pins for now. Will probably end up cutting the channels shorter at the bottom I just left them 6 inches for now. Obviously the longer they are the easier the push but I don’t think it’ll matter much as it’s a hydraulic cylinder not a hand lever. Want the maximum ground clearance. With the cylinder being a 4 inch stroke I may have to put a little bit of float in the lift linkage because 4 inches advanced might be too much lift causing PTO bind. In the picture I have it lifted 4 inches at the front but that’s only about 1-1/2” of travel on the channel irons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Playing around with the lift are a little today. Added rod end bearings to the 1-1/4" square tubing & now have to get the cylinder mount figured out (the flat bar mount will be moved down an inch more than the pic for better clearance) The issue I'm facing is the cylinder moves about 4" & I only need an inch or so to lift 7" high at the blower. I'll have to make with a float built in maybe instead of on the cylinder.
 

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The Pronovost blower for my 1655 pivots from the rear hitch plate and lifts from a half scissors bell crank attached to the sides of the frame near the front. It takes two bell cranks, one to redirect the force (solid link from the cylinder) to the second (chain to allow float) which does the lifting. Much better leverage that lifts a much heavier blower with that same cylinder. The best part is that the blower stays almost parallel with the ground from low to high positions and doesn't strain the U-joints or change the length of the drive shaft excessively. (The blower works fine in the transport position to help knock down deep drifts.)

Old school was to push front implements from the back of the tractor to save wear and tear on the chassis and possible buckling due to the force of pushing. There's not much concern about buckling the frame of a 1655, but newer tractors don't have as much chassis strength and a 1655 can deliver a lot of torque, even on snow when properly ballasted.

There was a pic on here several years ago of the effects of a front mounted blade on a Craftsman tractor when the blade hit an immovable object at speed. It wasn't pretty.
 
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