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Connoisseur of Rusty Junk
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1978 Bolens G11XL. The engine is an 11 HP Briggs and the charging system isn't working. When I first started troubleshooting the circuit, I found that the diode was a pile of black powder. Assuming (Dumb, Dumb, Dumb) that this was the problem, I replaced the diode (and, yes, the diode is in the proper polarity. I checked it three times because I don't trust myself) The circuit still isn't working. I did some tracking with my multimeter and found that the stator is pretty much shorted to ground (ringing 2.2 ohms, but it's a Harbor Freight meter). I also found that I'm getting 12 volts checking from the stator side of the diode to the + side of the battery whether the engine is running or not. Shouldn't there be 12 volts to the - side of the battery when the engine is running? Instead I read 0 volts to there. In my mind, this all means that the stator is at ground potential or shorted to ground. IMO there should be more resistance than 2 ohms in the windings of the stator but I don't know what should be there, and in any case, I'm not generating any power. Am I right about any or all of this? Any suggestions?
 

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Tractorholic
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Look under the B&S section in manuals and download the L-Head service manual. Should be a troubleshooting section on alternators there if you haven't already done so.
 
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Connoisseur of Rusty Junk
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I finally got around to checking into the problem. The stator was fried! Most of the magnet wire shellac was charred and black and about half of the plastic insulators were melted. I found one at a local parts shop for $58. Seemed a little high to me, but he had it on hand. I guess I should mention that we had to pull the engine out to even check the stator, but we took the opportunity to make some improvements and repairs while we were in there, so I guess it was worth the effort. I will post again after the stator is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No. No regulator, just the stator and a single diode.
 

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Electric Tractors
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Reason I ask is that I think you have a 2 wire charging system, you say you changed the diode so I'm pretty sure you do not have a regulator, I might be wrong here???
2 wire circuit has 2 wires coming from the engine together, 1 has a diode in it the other does not.

The wire with the diode is for charging the battery, 2 amp trickle charge no regulator and not for anything else. You will only get 2 amps with the motor running fast.

The other wire is for lights, 2 head lights and a tail light, this is 12volts AC and was designed for the load that 2 head lights and a tail light use. Lights only work when the engine is running and are not connected to the battery.

The 2 wires should never be connected together!

After saying all that I hope you tell me you do not have a regulator cause if you do non of what I just said matters.
 

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Connoisseur of Rusty Junk
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have seen the 2 wire systems, but mine isn't one of them. It's a "charge only" one wire system, 3 amps max. But thanks for the effort. I think that the PO might have tried something like running the lights off of it and smoked everything. The wiring was pretty well cobbled up when I got it. I gutted half of it and put it back to the way the wiring diagram said it was supposed to be. Thats when I discovered that it wasn't charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One last post for this thread! I got the alternator installed yesterday. I got the engine installed today. I fired it up and it's running OK, surging a little, but the important part is that IT IS CHARGING! Running at about 13.8 Volts and looks like full capacity at 3 amps. Now I just have to put all the sheet metal back on and figure out why it's surging. Probably just the carb is dirty after all the screwin' around. Thanks to all who helped! -Steve
 
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