[mike912e]

Here are three pics of the new I.D. plate with the engraving done . It might be hard to read as the plate is new and there's no dirt in the letter/number grooves . The engraver replicated the size and font quite well . Added two more pics of the plate on the Cub's engine shroud .

 

[LTD]

That looks great! Why did you curl the copper gas line like that?

 

[UncleWillie]

That looks great! Why did you curl the copper gas line like that?

Bad habit from his moonshining days?

 

[DougT]

That looks great! Why did you curl the copper gas line like that?

That allows the line to flex and be less likely to crack.

 

[mike912e]

Actually DougT is correct . We all know that these single cylinder Kohlers vibrate alot when they run and since the tank is mounted above the shaking engine any vibrating motion is amplified . So there can be vibrations thru the fuel line which could eventually lead to work-hardening of the copper line and finally failure . An analogy would be to bend a piece of sheet metal over and over again and eventually it breaks along the bend line . That's why most fuel lines in our cars are made from rubber ; it won't fail after repeated flexing . The rubber material absorbs the vibrations .

This configuation of the copper fuel line in the picture is original to the Cub . That's the way they usually did things back in the day .

I hope this answers your question .

 

[83MALIBU]

Wow, very nice build. I wish I had your patience.

 

[mike912e]

Here are three pics of the new I.D. plate with the engraving done . It might be hard to read as the plate is new and there's no dirt in the letter/number grooves . The engraver replicated the size and font quite well . Added two more pics of the plate on the Cub's engine shroud .

Woops ! I realized that I had installed the wrong plate on this Cub ; K241. I have since installed the correct one on the old "72" ; K161. The engraver used an extra plate to sample the size and font and I grabbed it by mistake .

 

[lrhredjb]

I purchased the correct thickness aluminum sheet, sheared the plates to the correct size ( same as the original I.D.plate ) . Jigged the hole punch to put the correct size and location hole in each corner then filed the notch in the bottom edge . That was the easy part ! Next I contacted a local silkscreen printer and had them produce an exact reproduction of the printing on the plate . Then they printed it onto the aluminum plate and now all I have left to do is procure the correct size metal stamp set and transfer the serial number and spec numbers over to the new plate . I saved the original three-eared fasteners that were on it originally but am considering using 1/8" pop rivets instead . I'm also making sure that the throttle and choke cables don't come anywhere near the new plate . And yes, I did make extra plates if anyone's interested . It just takes time and patience and lots of money !

Nice job on the tag. I'm always amazed how well some people can replicate things. BTW a good source for tag stock is a IN state license plate. For several years now they have been made from flat aluminum stock that is real close to the thickness of tags. The back side of the plate is mill finish so no prep work needed. The new tag can be attached using drive screws which is a kind of rivet with a steep pitch thread on the shank.It is simply driven into a hole. Commonly used to fasten tags on electric motors and machines. McMaster Carr catalog would list them. You are raising the bar for restorations awfully high you know. :bounce:

Larry

 

[LilysDad]

It's your time and money, do you think it's going too far?

 

[mike912e]

Thanks for your comments, everyone .

This fall I will start restoring my 124 Cadet and based on my experience with my first one ( CC 72 ) I hope it turns out even better . I guess all this attention to detail comes from working in the aircraft building business for thirty years . It has to be done correctly !

Hope to see some of you at the Dover show next month .

Mike