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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked this up...it was close and priced reasonable. I have an extra 10hp Wisconsin so I thought it may be a good project for the future? Too busy with yard work so it will sit and wait. Even got an extra hood for a later tube frame that may go on one of the others since it looks in good shape.
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Looks fixable. Quite common to see those round hoods repaired where they were welded to the grille panel. Must have been a weak spot for them. Had to weld and braze both of mine. Not sure why the towers are usually bent. Must be to reach in while changing a belt? Instead of removing the battery? Those vents can be a bear to straighten out. Never could figure out why someone would need to pry them out of shape so badly. Hook a bungee cord to hold the battery down? Anyway- looks like there is plenty there to work with. Would make a nice winter project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looked complete minus the engine. The hood isn't too bad, it's crooked as they had some attachment linkage type thing bolted to the frame on one side. The sheet metal for the battery is the worst from what I can see. The axel end play is real bad and could be some of the reason there is much oil on the transaxle. Gonna be awhile before I have time to do much with it but I guess you have to get them when they are available. Haven't seen many tube frames for sale around here lately. The few I have seen for sale are more than I want to pay.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Been doing a little investigating. I don't see any thing too bad. Inside of the transmission looks good. Hub needs new bronze bearings.

I went to change the front tires with a set I have that holds air. These were off a 1050 and the wheels have a different off set. The set that came on the 1000 have a deep offset, those are on the top in the pic. Are those correct wheels? I tried to look at pictures on the internet but it's hard to tell.
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My guess is that the deep offset ones are not for the 1000. Mine came to me with ones like you have from the 1050. Not that makes it so, but that's my 3 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It makes no difference to me really. They fit the axel well and seems like they were made for it.

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Looking at this thread I believe that the deeper recessed front wheels are correct for a Bolens 1000

https://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/51665-time-to-refresh-the-bolens-1000/

The part number shown for the front wheel for a Bolens model 1000 is 1715864 and according to the information that LPBolens put together a few years back the 1715864 wheel was only listed for the Bolens model 900 and 1000.

The 1050 used the 1715789 which fits a lot more models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was thinking they were correct also? Everything else seems original and unmolested. Both types fit the axle properly, so it was hard to be sure?

Is one type better than the other? The deep recess has a better appearance imo.

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I was thinking they were correct also? Everything else seems original and unmolested. Both types fit the axle properly, so it was hard to be sure?

Is one type better than the other? The deep recess has a better appearance imo.

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Looking at the wheel the more offset wheel would probably increase the tire width (or stance) of the tractor at the front allowing for a bit more stability but also changing where the front wheels would track in relation to the rear. This might be important for garden work to not squish plant rows as well as items like a snow caster where the tire width might be very close to the width of the snow caster. Not sure if one is better than the other - the deeper offset may have been thought necessary when Bolens first introduced the 900 and 1000 series but may have been considered less versatile as newer and higher hp versions of the tubeframes were introduced. The deeper offset would probably provide more clearance between the steering arms and the tire which may have been a concern if tire chains were to be used on the front wheels - just speculations on my part.
 

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Interesting! Well, like I said, just because mine had the 1050 style wheels on it didn’t make it so. Lots of tubeframe parts have been swapped back and forth between tractors over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That was what I was thinking I would do. They are both the same size tires. I already think I like the deep offset better, it made the tires look wider.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Looks like you freshened up some of the paint. Ought to make you a nice tractor.
A little bit. Just the frame parts, power wash, rust reformer and brown rattle can. Welded up some damage on sheet metal. Just fitting things to see where I am at. Replaced some things that needed it

I put metal rear fender pan on, might use that as the fiberglass doesn't seem as durable.

I planned to save this for another project in the future but every time I go on the garage I can't help but fiddle with it.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just a follow up on this. Not for the purist but it will do for me. Seems to be running good. I wasn't going to bother with decals but it seemed so naked after I painted it. It's not perfect as I do plan on using it. Replaced the clutch and I think it will be ready for the snow caster in the future. I needed tires and found an add for these 6-12s and some 7.5-12s and I like the skinny tires in the snow. Thanks for everyone's help! Now to get the snow caster up to speed.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks good to me! A set of the round fenders like the 800s had would set it off nice. IMHO
Dave...I agree some round fenders would be great. I have the fiberglass and a normal steel like off a 1050. I just didn't have a seat for those at the moment. But the round fenders with the skinny tires would be perfect. Hopefully I find some eventually.

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