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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I lost the spark on the 1477. It appears the stator under the flywheel has decided to call it quits. My meter shows it being completely open. I have a spare newer style unit saved from another motor that I will try. If for some reason this doesn't get me going, I will call up Overnight Solutions and buy one of his replacement set-ups. Still quite a bit more winter to deal with, I use this thing a lot pushing snow. About 2 hours today got me this far. A picture of the pulse fuel pump conversion I did a couple-three years ago to it. Kind of a job to get these babies apart.
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Oh dang! Just had my 1050 die yesterday while I was starting to plow a new garden plot. Still had gas in the tank but I didn't get a chance to bring it in to see what is wrong with it. Hopefully tomorrow. Crossing my fingers its an easy fix. Hope you get yours running soon. Sucks to have your tractor go down when you need it.
 

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Sorry to hear that your spark is missing - hope the other module setup gets you back up and running quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Found the lost sparks! I installed the spare stator and put enough back together for a test to see if it was going to work. Got nice snappy, blue sparks. Beautiful! About 3 hours and its pretty much back in one piece again. I mounted the solid-state module on the air-shroud, pretty much where I remember it being on the donor motor. So- I gave it a crank and it started right up and ran fine. I am going to isolate the ignition system from the rest of the tractors electrical system. Going to use a toggle switch to control the kill wire. I could wire the neg. post on the coil back to the key switch and the system would function exactly like before. The key switch provides a ground for the coil completing the circuit when in the run and start positions. I am going to eliminate any chance of 12vt.s getting back fed into the solid-state module and burning it out. I'm not sure if that might have happened and knocked out the unit I just replaced. I really don't think so but possibly. Have to tidy up a couple wires and install a kill switch yet. The white wire hanging over the stud on the air-cleaner elbow is the kill wire for this system. Yee-Haa! The hard, dirty part is done.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was pretty sure I had a toggle switch amongst my collection of stuff, of course I couldn't find it. So a trip to the store got me one. I'll find the other one after a while right where I stashed it. Sound familiar? Not wanting to bore a hole in the dash-plate or anywhere else I decided to use the hole that the snow-blower chute control support bolts to. I don't have a blower for this tractor, so no issue there. This ought to be a reasonable location for the kill switch, shouldn't be in the way of anything. I grounded the coil to a bolt holding the air-shroud and added a few zip-ties here and there to tidy things up a bit. And here's the stator unit that caused all the trouble.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wait, so that thing under the flywheel is just serving in place of the points? Weird.

Also did you put that cotter pin on the dipstick tube? The rubber stopper on the dipstick on my Wisconsin slides up and down a lot.
I believe that the cotter pin was one of my “fixes” back when I rebuilt the motor. Quick and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This whole debacle started when I went out to do a quick cleanup where some snow slid off the metal barn roof. Should have taken about 10 minutes. I ended up towing it back to the garage with the H14. And of course the blade was down when it died. Hooked the tow strap to the hitch and dragged it backwards. Didn't exactly pull easy. I'm glad it didn't poop out during the cleanup after the storm that left me about 9-10" of snow. This tractor and the H14 with blower on it both had a pretty good workout cleaning up that mess. Not sure when we will get another blast of snow, but I'm pretty sure I'll need it to plow with again before much longer. I'm rather pleased to have it back on duty. In a pinch I could install a battery, chains and a blade on the 1050 and get by, but it couldn't push nearly as much snow as this one will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So here we go again! This is round two of having this tractor give me grief just when I really needed to use it. A few days ago, I moved it from the garage to a stall in the barn. Needed to use the garage for a few projects. Yesterday I wanted to move my small utility trailer and also my tandem axle trailer. I could use my truck to do either, but using the Bolens is always easier, quicker. So, I went to start it up and it went CLUNK after running for a few seconds. Motor stopped immediately. Couldn't turn the motor by pulling on the starter/generator drive belt. I took a pair of large channel lock pliers and tried turning the driveshaft. There was a very brief crunching noise followed by a TINK and then the motor would turn freely. I removed the spark plug and turned the motor through several revolutions by turning the drive shaft by hand. There were no other odd noises. So, I tried spinning it over with the starter and it rolled through several cycles just great. I thought that's pretty odd what the H just happened. Then the lightbulb lit up. I put the wire back on the plug and laid it on the top of the head, switched on the ignition and cranked the motor over. Yep, just as I figured, no spark. Said a few bad words I can't print here and walked away for a few minutes. I am about 99 percent sure that a magnet fell out of its home in the flywheel and got lodged in someplace locking up the motor. That was the CLUNK noise I heard. I suspect it probably slammed up against the stator I just replaced. Not sure yet just a reasonable guess. I crunch noise I heard was probably the stator being finished off by the wedged magnet when I turned the drive shaft with the big pliers. Again, just a guess. I took the plow off, syphoned the gas-tank out and will have to tear back into it sometime in a few days, to see for sure exactly how bad its messed up.
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That sucks! Had that happen on a Kohler Command V-twin. Had to find another flywheel with good magnets in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I am expecting that might be my answer to this problem too. This was a rather inconvenient time to have an issue with my main "mover" tractor. Springtime is when I typically move trailers and the wood-splitter from their winter storage spots and this tractor is extremely useful/handy for the job. I'll get by alright, just one of those things. I'll get it apart sometime soonish and figure out a plan from there. Every time I have an issue with this Wisconsin motor I get the urge to repower it with a B&S , Kohler, Honda, Predator, V-twin of 16 to 20 hp. That would of course ruin the value and originality of the tractor in most people's eyes. But- if it were more dependable for ME, that's my line of thought. This pretty much burnt my toast the other day. Tractor had been starting and running great. It's quite possible I caused the problem myself. When I replaced the stator I used a crow-bar to put some pressure on the flywheel and used a lead hammer (similar to a dead-blow) to rap the end of the crankshaft and pop the flywheel loose. Just like shown in the Wisconsin manual. Done this on many motors over the years when a puller wasn't available or applicable. Maybe I loosened one of the magnets when I removed the flywheel? Whatever, just have to move on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
True, could also craft a home brewed electronic system of my own too. Drill, tap the flywheels outer edge and mount a pin or tab to trigger a sensor that would provide input to an ECU. Dunno. I'll get it apart and see what's up before I make any decisions.
 
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