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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was within half an hour of finishing cutting grass Saturday afternoon when the tractor seemed to loose power and stalled. Did a quick restart after I disengaged the PTO and tried to engage the PTO again and the engine started to die again. Drove back to the shop and parked it for the night and did a quick check and the deck blades seemed to turn freely so I removed the PTO yoke from the PTO and found that the PTO had seized up at the rear needle bearing. This surprised me as I grease the PTO faithfully every time I use the tractor as I have had the ball bearing at the front fail because of lack of grease. I borrowed the PTO off my other 1050 yesterday and finished cutting the grass and today decided to pull the seized PTO apart and see how much damage I had done. As you can see by the pictures the rear needle bearing got very hot and seized to the shaft as well as the end of the PTO where the seal would press in is pretty much worn away. I should have been keeping a closer eye on this and will definitely do so in the future. I am assuming what happened is the snap ring on the PTO shaft inside broke (as I found it in about three pieces mixed in with what was left of the grease) and allowed the shaft to move ahead causing the pulley to wear the end of the PTO housing generating heat to the point where the grease boiled away and the needle bearing seized up. The first job was to slit the bearing cage with a die grinder using a worn 3" cut off wheel (it was closer to 2" which let me get in close to the bearing with the pulley where it is as it was welded to the shaft by a previous owner) and pry the cage apart with a large screwdriver and remove what was left of the needles which were melted into the PTO shaft.

Thought I would post this and the way I am using to repair it as it may help someone else in a similar situation.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The first thing I did was remove the remains of the needles from the shaft with a 36 grit roloc disk using my angle die grinder. I tried to only remove what was sticking up above the surface. Then I mounted the shaft in the lathe to see if it was bent by the heat and it ran good and true so I polished the shaft where the bearing and seal run using some 120 grit emery cloth. It came up pretty good (in my opinion) so I put a little oil on the shaft and increased the speed of the lathe and gave it another polish. It still has a few marks in it but nothing that should tear up the new needle bearing.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Then I turned my attention to the worn end of the PTO housing. I could have just left it and pressed the bearing and seal further into the housing but I decided I would try and replace what had been worn away so that the seal and bearing would sit in their proper spots and there would be a new surface to wear in case this ever happens again. I got a 3/4" steel flat washer and a four inch piece of 1" cold rolled that fit nicely inside the bore of the PTO where the bearing goes. I bored the inside of the washer out so the cold rolled would just fit through it and then I turned the outside down to about 1.250" so it would sit in the well that was worn in the housing ( the washer is about the same thickness as the seal so the seal should press into it and the bearing will press into the original housing part). Then I slid the cold rolled into the washer and into the PTO housing which centred the washer and then I mig welded the washer to the housing (the vise grips were on the cold rolled so it did not slide all the way through). I had to tap the cold rolled to get it out once everything cooled back down and then I ground the weld down at the end with a 36 grit roloc disc on the angle die grinder. I then took a file and some emery cloth and polished the inside of the washer so that the cold rolled would just slide in by hand - once I had a nice hand fit I gave the housing a quick squirt of paint and found two new snap rings for the PTO shaft from my snap ring stash. I will have to order a new seal and bearings tomorrow from the auto parts store (maybe a new outer snap ring that retains the front bearing as well) and hopefully once they show up I can put it back together.
 

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Nice job. It sure is great to have the tools and knowledge. 80 years ago most gas stations had a lathe and a milling machine to repair parts. You got alot more service in those days. Good Luck, Rick
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the two bearings and a seal today - the SKF / CR (Napa) part numbers I got were B1212 for the needle bearing, 7410 for the seal and 6203-FFA for the front ball bearing. The ball bearing comes with two seals so it is necessary to remove one of the seals to allow grease to get into it - this is easily done with a small pick or flat screwdriver. I pressed the needle bearing and seal into the housing, made sure the needles turned inside the bearing after I installed it, greased the needle bearing and seal, installed the shaft and put the inner snap ring on the shaft, put the ball bearing in place and locked it in place and set the steel dust shield I made many years ago to replace the nylon disc in place and installed the outer snap ring on the shaft. Then I turned the shaft over by hand and checked the rear of the shaft for side way movement - everything feels good and smooth. Then I had to remove the snap rings and front bearing as it dawned on me that I forgot to put the belt shield on the housing -OOPS. Put the inner snap ring back on and put the front bearing in place and stopped for the night as I ordered a new snap ring that holds the front bearing in place - it should be here in a day or two.
 

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First off that is one heck of a failure. Second, I am amazed at your work on this. I never had one apart and did not know how they were put together. This is a great post and a ton of good info. Thank you for posting all the pictures and info on your repair, nice work as usual Chevy.
 
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A Little Off Plumb
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8,019 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First off that is one heck of a failure. Second, I am amazed at your work on this. I never had one apart and did not know how they were put together. This is a great post and a ton of good info. Thank you for posting all the pictures and info on your repair, nice work as usual Chevy.
Thanks for the kind words - this one has had the pulley welded to the shaft -- a repair that someone did before I got the tractor - I assume the splines probably got worn over the years and the shaft started turning inside the pulley. The original set up had the pulley splined the same as the PTO yoke is and it was held in place with two snap rings. The pulley welded onto the shaft does make taking it apart and putting it back together a little trickier but it can be done and it still functions ok.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got the new snap ring for the PTO housing that retains the front bearing and installed it tonight - sorry no pictures as I forgot to take the camera with me (the housing bore is 1.750" and the industry standard part # is 5000-175). Filled the housing full of grease - took about 40 pumps with the hand grease gun. Removed the PTO I borrowed off the other tractor and installed the repaired one - will have to test it this weekend if it does not rain.
 
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