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Discussion Starter · #481 ·
Then I decided to push the tractor outside, put some fuel in the tank and see if it had any intentions of starting. I filled the fuel tank about half full and turned on the fuel valve fully expecting the carb to start leaking since I had not done anything to the carb but it surprised me and there were no leaks. After a couple of minutes I installed the negative cable, checked again for fuel leaks and applied the choke. Cranked the engine and on the second revolution it offered but would not stay running by itself - kept trying and after a few attempts of it offering and quitting I went and got the battery charger and hooked it up as the battery was beginning to lose power. I finally got it to run but only for about ten to fifteen second intervals and then it would quit which didn't surprise me - in the back of my mind I was thinking there was dirt in the carb from it sitting and it had been disturbed while being moved around and it was causing problems. I removed the main jet and let the gas flow for a second and reinstalled it and tried it again and it started and ran for about twenty seconds before it quit but seemed to be labouring and did not want to rev up much so I turned the fuel off and removed the plug in the bottom of the carb to drain the fuel - I expected to see dirty fuel but it looked clean. Reinstalled the drain plug, turned the fuel back on and tried starting it again but it still would only run for about twenty seconds and quit so after a few more attempts and tinkering a bit with the main jet adjustment I decided to pull the spark plug - it was black. I thought to myself bad spark plug (I learned many years ago that a spark plug can be bad right from the package) so I grabbed the old one and installed it. Cranked the engine and it started and ran for about ten seconds and quit and would not offer to start again. Grabbed the 12 volt test light and hooked it up to a ground and the negative side of the coil and just as I suspected the light was solid on as the engine was being cranked - I had lost spark. Verified that I had 12 volts to the module and then I tried the spare crank sensor I keep on hand but I still had no spark. It turns out the module was not working as I replaced it with a new one I keep on hand for the HEI setup in my Chevelle and I had spark again - the module I had picked for the tractor was a used one that I thought was good but apparently not. Tried starting the engine with the old plug and it now would stay running but it still would not rev up properly and seemed to be labouring as if the timing was off so I put the new spark plug back in and decided to check the timing with the timing light since the engine would now stay running - attached is a short video I made before I checked the timing. I had not checked the timing as the sensor was in the same position it was when the engine was taken apart as one of the mounting bracket holes is not adjustable - when I first installed the sensor years ago I made one hole slotted and adjusted the sensor position to set the timing and then drilled the second hole to secure it in the correct position. When I hooked up the timing light I could not see the timing mark in the window so I removed the fixed screw and began to move the sensor to advance the timing - I moved it about a quarter of an inch and then ran out of adjustment. I still could not see the timing mark with the timing light so I put a mark on the flywheel about 3/4" away from the timing mark on both sides with a piece of chalk - the advanced side was a single chalk mark and the retarded side was two chalk marks beside each other and tried the timing light again. I could see the two chalk marks with the light so I knew the timing was still late but at least now the engine would rev up when you opened up the throttle a bit - I made a second video of it starting and running after I advance the timing - did not want to leave it running very long with the timing still off. By this time it was getting late so I called it a day - so far the engine is still full of oil and do not see any leaks or hear any mysterious knocks or ticks. Hope to get the bracket modified tomorrow so I can get the timing set correctly and then I can tweak the hi speed jet a bit and let the engine run for a while with no load. I was surprised that the timing was off that much but in reflection the solid spacers I made to replace the three nut spacers that were used on the second pulley initially may have changed the position of the pulley in relation to the flywheel as they may not allow as much slop for the bolts.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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When I went to remove the crank sensor bracket I noticed that the screw holes were starting to strip out in the shroud so I figured I had better fix that problem as well. Removed the shroud off the engine, drilled out the holes to 3/16" so a 10-32 machine screw would go through them and then I made a support out of 1" x 3" x 1/8" flat steel that got drilled and threaded to accept two 10-32 machine screws. Set the piece on the inside of the shroud and put in two machine screws, tightened them up and tack welded the support in place with the mig welder. Burned off some paint so I cleaned up the area and then repainted it. I modified the crank sensor bracket by slotting the second hole and adding a bit of metal to the one side of the slots. Then I decided that I needed to move the sensor in relation to the bracket but my brain was not working properly so I first moved it the wrong way - finally got it right after a few hours of frustration and I can now set the timing to the correct spot ( I hope). I removed the sensor and finished welding the bracket and painted it - still can't get over how much I had to move the sensor to get the timing right as I know I had it timed properly when I installed the electronic ignition years ago - can't see the pulley shifting that much in relation to the flywheel - guess it will remain an unsolved mystery.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #485 ·
Put the crank sensor back in the bracket, installed it and then finally set the timing with my timing light. I also verified that the charging system voltage wasn't too high as my timing light also has a display that reads battery voltage - the ammeter was showing it charging about 7 amps with it running and the battery voltage varied from about 13.2 to 14.5 volts depending on how fast the engine was running. Pushed the tractor outside, added a bit more gas to the tank and started it up and let it run for about 75 minutes today - shut it off a few times to check the oil level and do a few checks after I adjusted the mixture screws - found out I do have an oil seepage when the engine is revved up a bit as it was dripping oil on the right side where the crankcase join is down onto the side cover for the frame tube. I verified that the oil was not coming from the gasket by wiping things off and checking to see where the oil was originating - seems to be coming out around the seal for the governor shaft. I did not have a new seal for the shaft when I put the engine back together as it was back ordered at the time but I do have one now so I may have to put it in if the seepage persists. So far no rattles or knocks - it does have a bit of a whistle when the engine is revved up but I think it had that before if memory serves me correctly and the oil level is still on the full mark. Attached are four videos - the first one is of the engine running, the second shows the crank sensor that triggers the module and also shows there are no wires going to the stud coming out of the points box (you can also see that the paint on the exhaust pipe is getting burnt off), the third is restarting the engine after it had been running for about an hour and shut off for about two minutes and the last video shows what the rear pulley looks like with the engine running - I think I am safe to put the belts on it.
 

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Mark J.
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Everything sounds and looks great!

When I was listening to the videos I did hear the whistle that you talked about. It reminds me of a throttle plate air leak. I was wondering if the carb throttle shaft is leaking air into the intake due to it being worn down or the mounting surface of the carb not sitting flush to the block due to warp edge?

Good luck on the rest of the build and I can't wait to see it with all of the decals on it and somebody driving it around!
 
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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Everything sounds and looks great!

When I was listening to the videos I did hear the whistle that you talked about. It reminds me of a throttle plate air leak. I was wondering if the carb throttle shaft is leaking air into the intake due to it being worn down or the mounting surface of the carb not sitting flush to the block due to warp edge?
Thanks for the kind words. I built up the throttle shaft and installed new bushings and packings for the shaft about two years before I quit running it so I doubt if it is leaking air there - will spray some ether around the intake and throttle shaft sometime after it has ran a bit more and see if I can find a leak.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #488 ·
Today I decided to finish wiring up the lights and to do that it was necessary to install the rear fender reflective decal and the headlamp decal so it is officially a "Husky" now. Got the rear decal a little high in relation to the lamp holes and the headlamp decal isn't my best decal installation job but they will do. Used a Grote 47052 clearance lamp as a sub for the original tail lamp - it comes with two sheet metal screws to mount it but I removed them, drilled the two holes out to 3/16" and used two 10-32 x 1" machine screws to mount it. Ran a wire back from the light switch underneath and then terminated it and a ground source with a two wire polarized plug - this will make the rear fender easy to remove if I have to sometime in the future. Then I installed two 4411 seal beams for headlamps - the parts manual calls for 4406 but I find the 4411's work fine for me and are less money to purchase new (yes I am cheap at times). Used six 10-32 x 1-1/2" machine screws through the front to attach the two headlamp retaining rings I made - not quite as pretty as the originals but should work fine. Once that was done the headlamps got wired to the electrical system and I made sure the lights worked and called it a day.
 

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Registered
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Dang, that thing looks sharp!!!!!
 
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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #491 ·
Got the idler pulleys installed and the PTO and drive belts installed today. Set the PTO about half way down on the slots and adjusted the guard I made for the pulley belts - the PTO belts don't drag when the engine is turned over - will have to see what happens when I start it up again. I found an old choke cable that used to be on my first 1050 when I got it - the knob is homemade and the O.D. of the cable where it mounts is only 3/8" but I think I can adapt it to work and since it has the knob threaded on I can make a new knob and thread it on if everything else works out. Picked up a spring at the hardware store that was about the right length for the drive belt tensioner arm but it was a little stiff so I made a short "C" link out of some 1/8" round stock and put it between the eye and the spring which I think will work.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #492 ·
Since I had the dash off as it makes removing the larger battery easier I decided to install the instruction decal that goes underneath the dash before I put the dash back on. I also got the PTO decal and the shifter / brake decal installed. I made up a bushing on the lathe out of some round stock that has a 3/8" hole in it and a short lip to fit in the dash hole which is about .580" - this will centre the choke cable in the dash hole and keep it from being sloppy. Taped up the wires where they run along the right side by the battery and put a clamp on them - I also taped up the wires that go from the coil to the module. The chrome paint that I painted the steering wheel button with back in the spring had gone flat so I sanded the button and gave it a couple of coats of silver metallic and after the paint had dried I installed the button back on the wheel and gave it a "Husky" decal - not quite straight but a 10 mile an hour it should look ok.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #493 ·
I removed the homemade knob, wrapped the choke cable in black tape to make it look a little nicer and match the colour of the throttle cable, slid the bushing I had painted silver metallic on to the cable and installed the choke cable that I found. Then I made a new knob for it in the lathe, threaded it so it would thread on to the cable and then gave it a splash of red paint and set it aside to dry. While the paint was drying I installed the patent decal, model and serial number decal and the two six speed decals.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #494 ·
Then the hood decals got installed and I decided that I might as well paint the red stripe on the hood. Got the tractor masked off, scuff sanded the hood for the stripe and splashed on some red paint. Once the paint had dried I unmasked things and took a few pictures. The choke knob was dry enough that I could handle it and thread it on to the choke cable.

Now where did I put that seat?
 

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I use heat shrink tubing over my choke/throttle cables! Takes a little time to shrink it down, but will protect them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
Dug out the seat I had made a new cover for about a year and a half ago and I remembered that I had only tied and taped the covers on so I removed them from the seat pan to do a more permanent job. I decided to use new 1-1/2" padding on the bottom and back since I had some and glued it and the seat covers to the bottom and back. I also installed door edge moulding around the outer edge of the seat pan to make it less likely to cut into the cover. Installed the bottom and back onto the seat pan and bolted the seat on the tractor.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #498 ·
Put the free wheeling pin in, and once I remembered to turn on the fuel valve (wondered why it started, ran for a minute and quit), I started the tractor and drove it out of the shop under its own power. Once it was outside I took some pictures of it out in the sunlight - hope you don't mind if I share them. Then I took the tractor for a bit of a drive to the road and back - when I got to the road I noticed something was dripping on the starter generator so I opened the hood and found out the dipstick had popped up and the underside of the hood got a bit of a coating of oil. Shut the engine off and checked the oil - it still showed full and it was a tad overfull when I put the oil in which may have caused the problem. Started it back up and drove it back to the shop and shut it off and cleaned up the oil spray. The transmission has some gear noise in hi range(about the same as my one 1050) and I still have a few bugs to iron out with the carb as it does not want to idle back down right away if it is revved up a bit (think they are governor / carb related) but at least it is back together and moves under its own power.
 

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