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Discussion Starter · #521 ·
Did a bit more to the spacer today. Got the tops lowered and curved the front edges back so they tuck under the seat at the top. Did a test fit and it still looked ok and the seat still cleared at the rear so I added a few more braces and two more holes in the top to allow one more inch of adjustment. Then I added some cross pieces to tie the two spacers together and gave them a splash of paint.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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So tomorrow we find out if the tranny repair works without the noise?????????????

The suspense is killing me. :rolling: :rolling:

I suspect like all the other repairs that you've done, it will work just fine .
I may get it back together and running tomorrow - waiting for the correct tensioner spring (and some other springs) for the drive belts which I ordered from Bolens 1000 - been showing in Chicago Distribution Centre (USPS) since last Friday and no new updates - was hoping it would show up so I could put it in.

You have to remember the cluster gear I welded the teeth on and ground was a repair I made and it may not have been my best work. :( :( :(
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #524 ·
Got the seat bracket mounted and the seat back on. Still no new update on the tensioner spring so I removed the short link I had added and reinstalled the tensioner spring and it appears to have the drive belts tensioned nicely. Put the rest of the tractor back together, reinstalled the free wheeling pin and backed it out of the shop and took it for about a half hour joy ride around the yard and out to the road a few times. I am happy to report that in Hi range the transmission is now almost as quiet as my first 1050 - still has a little bit of a whine in the Hi range gears but not nearly as bad as it was - the only gear now you really hear a whine in is reverse Hi range which appears to be normal as my first 1050 has a whine when in reverse Hi range as well. Now I just have to get the governor working a little bit better and I will be done - I have a new governor and carb return spring (as well as the tensioner spring) ordered from Bolens 1000 which I hope will show up this week.
 

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Woo buddy, that last picture looks just like one out of a vintage brochure or advertisement!! You have a lot to be proud of there and I'll bet the maiden voyage sure brought a smile to your face. :)
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Got the new carb return and governor springs in the mail yesterday from Bolens Parts And Supplies and installed on the engine today. I found a length of mechanics wire with a hook formed on one end worked well to hook the springs onto the breather tube and into the holes in the governor arm. If you are planning on replacing the springs or adjusting the rod I would strongly recommend you do it with the engine cold as it is very easy to get burnt working around the exhaust pipe (ask me how I know). Took some measurements before I installed them so that if someone is wondering if they have the correct size springs they can match what they have against the sizes in the pictures. About a week ago I started to play with the adjustment on the governor spring rod as the engine acted as if it had no governor and would not maintain a steady rpm when revved up. I checked the operation of the governor arm itself by revving the engine up and found that after about a half second delay the governor arm would try to close the throttle up - this told me the governor was working internally but appeared to be slow to react for some reason. Armed with this information I started to increase tension on the old spring by turning the adjusting screw a few turns at a time to see what affect this would have - after I adjusted the rod about 10 turns I noticed that the engine was starting to act like it had a governor. I used a piece of mechanics wire through the hole where the spring hooks which gave me enough leverage to turn the screw without having to remove the pivot. I think several years ago some idiot (me) thought that loosening the tension on governor spring would make the engine respond better (which it didn't). As I was working on adjusting the governor spring the return spring broke so I jury rigged a return spring using a couple of short light duty springs from my spring assortment. I decided it would be prudent to get the correct return spring and at the same time I figured an new governor spring might be a good idea as well as the one end of the original governor spring appeared to have been bent to form a new hook - I assume at some point in time the end of it had broken (probably years of heat from the exhaust had made it brittle). I tried to order them from a Wisconsin parts supplier in Ontario here in Canada but was told they were NLA so I checked with Bolens 1000 and he had them in stock. I may still have the tension on the governor spring a little on the tight side but the engine appears to hold a very steady RPM once it is at 3/4 to full throttle - tested it by going up a steep incline in second gear hi range. I have not been able to find much information as to what the correct amount of tension should be on the governor spring - right now with the throttle cable pushed all the way in the throttle is held about 1/3 open with the engine shut off. Thought I would post the pictures as it may help someone who is trying to figure out the amount of thread that should be on each side of the pivot the rod swivels on. If someone knows what the correct amount of tension should be perhaps they could post the information. I have also attached a cleaned up pdf version of the information in the Wisconsin Service Manual that discusses the operation and adjustment of the governor arm.
 

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Removed the left axle nut as well and removed the left hub. The locking nut and wave washers are missing but I got parts of a 1050 transmission when I got this tractor and I think the nut is still on it. The left part of the axle appears to have hot spots where the hub turns - perhaps someone ran it with low fluid level and it stopped getting lubricated there?? Then I called it a day and put a piece of cardboard over the top to keep dirt out and rolled it off out of the way. Will have to start working on cleaning things up and ordering some parts.
Hi stew, I constantly keep looking over your posts for help on my restoration- in this post you removed the left hub, mine is very tight. Does it pull of with a puller? Or how did you remove it, you can pm me or message here. Thanks sam
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #529 ·
in this post you removed the left hub, mine is very tight. Does it pull of with a puller? Or how did you remove it, you can pm me or message here. Thanks sam
The left hub should turn freely on the axle if the differential lock cone and bushing set up are not causing it to bind. Once the axle nut and the cone, sleeve and axle keys were removed on mine the hub slid off the axle shaft on mine. If you refer to the posts # 8 and #11 by Bruce Dorsi in this thread he offers some suggestions on removing the hub.

https://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/71074-tube-frame-diff-side-bearing-replace/

I would not recommend using a puller to remove the hub as the hub is cast and as a result fragile if excess pressure is placed on it by using a puller or hitting it. Hope this helps.
 
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