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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I traded a buddy a mower deck the other day for a Bolens 1053 with a deck and blade. He said it runs very poor. Original Wisconsin engine, decent paint, seat, tires, ect. These tube frames seem to be a well built machine. Never owned a Bolens before. I'm a CASE guy both on the farm and in the garden. In trying to resurrect this thing I am going to replace all the wiring as it's cobbled and shot, plus the usual fluid changes, grease, ect. Is there anything special to know about? I have downloaded the manuals from here to read over. The mower has the shaft on it, and a deck wash fitting. So far the only thing that has me confused is if you push the tractor it will roll a few feet, then the RH wheel locks up, bump it backwards and it rolls again. It looks like the lock pin is out, differential lock cup do-dad is turned out, but it won't free wheel for more than a few feet. Also, I got a bag of transmission parts with it, but the end cap in the bag is white and my trans is red/brown. Help?
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
That's a pretty good looking 1053. I believe the trans in the 1053 is supposed to be white.I have a 1053,and it has the white one.
 

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DR. Bolens
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19,060 Posts
Are you sure your free wheeling pin is pulled all the way out?

The transmissions were painted white on the 1053's. , It sounds like the paint is off on yours as you are probably down to the cast iron...
 

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Old, but not dead -- yet!
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You've got a good tractor there!

I believe the rear-axle end play in your transaxle needs to be adjusted. .....The correct procedure is posted at this link:

Bolens Rear-Axle End Play Adjustment - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

The Wisconsin engines are very good engines. .....If it is running poorly, the most common problems were ignition or a burnt exhaust valve. ......It is definitely worth repairing & keeping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well as soon as I finish the repairs/rewiring of the Allis Chalmers B-112 I will bring the 1053 in the garage and strip it down. I pulled the spark plug out and you can read the letters on top of the intake valve so it must be fairly clean in there. It hasn't ran for a while and I see mice have invaded the blower housing so that will need a cleaning too. The wiring is a zoo of splices and tape. I cleaned the gas tank the other day and I imagine there is crap in the carburetor as the tank was nasty. The more I turn it over with the starter the more the compression seems to build. I may put a tiller on it for spring garden work if I can get it going without much work. I will have to recheck the rear end color. someone spray bombed the tractor as the starter has a ton of over spray on it as well as some of the decals. I looked in the parts bag and there is a 3 bolt cap, shift rails and forks and some gears. The trans seems to shift into all the gears and nothing in the bag looks bad so? :confuse: A guy at work had a 1050 with blower, blade, tiller, and weights for sale for $650, anybody want the tractor and blade? We are over by Delavan, WI.
 

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So today it got dragged into the shop. Free wheeled for 5-8'the then lock up. Got the light out the free wheel pin is all the way out. I also noticed quite a gap on the axle in between the thrust washer and pin carrier. Evicted mickey to. Also noticed that if you push it in reverse and push it makes a clicking noise out of the wheel.
 

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DR. Bolens
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1031d said:
So today it got dragged into the shop. Free wheeled for 5-8'the then lock up. Got the light out the free wheel pin is all the way out. I also noticed quite a gap on the axle in between the thrust washer and pin carrier. Evicted mickey to. Also noticed that if you push it in reverse and push it makes a clicking noise out of the wheel.
You definietly need to adjust the rear axle end play...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, downloaded the manual, anything I should keep an eye out for while I'm in there? I also ordered a gasket and seal kit from tube frames because this thing is already marking it's territory.
 
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