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Neat post. I kinda know what you means about the coating on armatures and transformers.

Noel
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Got the roller chain fished out of the can of oil it has been sitting in since I removed it and let it drip for several minutes and then put it in a plastic bag to carry it over to the shop. Laid it out on top of the aw horse and checked to see all the links moved freely which they did. Attached a piece of mechanics wire to the links behind the ends and then flipped the snow caster up so that gravity was my friend and draped the chain over the drive gear.
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The snow caster was then flipped back down and the two wires were pulled on so the ends of the chain were positioned at the front of the driven gear and the wires got wrapped together so the chain stayed in place on the driven gear. The join link was then slid into the ends and the side plate and keeper were then installed with the split end of the keeper positioned to the trailing side when the rotor is rotated to throw snow as per the instructions. This makes the keeper less likely to get caught on some debris and accidentally unlocked.
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Rotated the rotor a few turns and the chain appears to be sitting close to centered on the gear teeth for the most part - there is a slight wobble to the driven gear so part of the chain appears to be off to one side as per the pictures. Then the rear cover guard got installed with the four bolts that hold it on. May have to tighten the chain a little bit - will see how things look after it is used once or twice this winter.
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Now the snow caster can go back to its home ready to be installed when winter gets closer - still have to install and wire the switch on the tractor but I am hoping to use it for the next few weeks with the wood chipper if my ambition holds out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Yes - it should be ready to go now for the most part - one of my friends keeps telling me that winter is supposed to show up early this year (been saying that for the last several years) - one of these years he will be correct - hope this isn't the one as I would be quite happy to have it sit in the shed all winter and cut grass (one can dream can't one??).
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Since the rain started last night and continued this morning I decided it might be a good day to tackle where and how I wanted to mount the switch to control the chute actuator. I knew that I wanted to mount it on the left side of the tractor but was not sure exactly where. Thought about making a clamp to go around the steering column but decided that making a bracket to bolt to the side of the dash support might be a better plan. Wanted the switch back away from and slightly below the dash area so it would be easy to contact with gloves on but not get bumped or banged getting on and off the tractor. Another desire was to have the back of the switch where the terminals are protected from snow and moisture - I am using a DPDT center off momentary on toggle switch and it will have a rubber boot to keep moisture out of the switch stem area.

Used a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" flat steel about 1-1/2" long and welded a piece of 1/2" x 2" x 1/8 to it - the piece of 3/4" got a pilot hole drilled in it that got enlarged to 1/4'" so that it can be bolted on to the side of the dash support. Since there is an instruction label decal directly below the dash the bracket needed to clear it and allow the switch some room between it and the switch. The hole at the side of the dash support should not cause any problems and it and the mounting bolt will be hidden from view when the hood is closed. Clamped the bracket to the side of the dash and then drilled a matching hole in the dahs support that also got enlarged to 1/4".
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Then I added a piece of 3/4" x 1/8" x 2-1/2" to the bracket to bring the mounting piece I planned to use for the switch back away from the decal. Things looked ok so I cut two pieces of 1/8" x 1-1/2" X 2" steel and drilled a hole in one to serve as a mounting hole for the switch stem. The 1/8" thick material might be overkill but should keep the bracket from bending or springing when the switch stem is moved or if snow and ice begin to accumulate on the bracket.
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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Got the two pieces tacked to the bracket and did a test fit of the switch. Things looked ok but I had to give the 3/4" extension piece a slight bend / twist to get the top of the bracket to look parallel with the decal. Once that was done I was happy so the plate pieces got welded to the bracket and one last test fit was done - the bracket should protect the switch and wiring from the elements and yet allow the switch to be easy to access with a gloved hand.
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The bracket got cleaned up and a few coats of paint were applied. Didn't figure the paint would dry quickly with all the moisture in the air so called it a day. Maybe tomorrow I can get the switch wired up if the rain continues. There is also enough room to mount a second switch outboard of the first if I ever need to - maybe someday I will be able to rotate the chute with an electric motor. The chipper works nicely as a place to hang the bracket to dry in between coats of paint.
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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
The rain continued today - so far we appear to have gotten about 4" accumulation so things are going to be wet for several days. Fortunately the paint dried and I added a piece of foam insulation and got the bracket bolted in place - used a 3/4" long bolt so the bolt can also be used as a ground point.
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Added the fuse holder and the ground wire that will supply current to the switch. The fuse holder is hooked to the live side of the headlamp switch which is powered only when the key is in the on position which should work fine. The wires got cut and eyes added so they could be attached to the switch terminals on one side. There are two jumper wires that connect the power and ground to the other side in a crossed position so the current gets reversed when the switch is moved the opposite way.
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The wires that will run from the two middle terminals to the actuator got eye terminals added and attached to the switch terminals.
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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
The wires that run to the front of the tractor got taped together as did the power wires where they run from the switch to under the hood area. The wiring connector that came with the actuator got connected to the two feed wires and for now the wiring and connector will sit inside the bottom of the hood. Used a tie strap that is attached loosely to the side hood bracket I use for the Honda repowered engine to keep the wires in place - the wires can be slid through the tie strap if I wish to remove the switch for the summer season. Since I have a mirror mounted on the tractor I ran the wires underneath the bracket where they go to the switch which was installed in the bracket.
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Added a 5 amp fuse to the fuse holder to protect the circuit in case something causes magic smoke to try and escape and also installed the rubber boot on the toggle part of the switch to hopefully keep moisture on the outside.
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I may have to shorten the wiring a little bit if it is too long at the front but will have to check and fine tune that when I get the snow caster mounted later this fall - for now I am hoping the project is done until I see what sort of problems I have created with my modifications once the white stuff shows up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
I finally finished attaching the snow caster back on the 1050 yesterday and tried out the actuator using the switch that I mounted on the tractor. I plugged in the connector to the wiring on the tractor which, as I suspected the wiring is a little bit long so I used a few wraps of tape to hold the two sections of wire together for now as it will form a strain relief of sorts so the snow is not pulling on the connector when it cakes up on the wires. I imagine that eventually the connectors will get replaced with a two wire polarized trailer connector that is more weatherproof but will see how this works out for now.

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Here is a link to a short video of the top section of the chute moving with the linear actuator. No magic smoke was released in the making of this video but I found that a small section of the snow liner plastic had deformed slightly with the cold and rubbed on a bolt head which you can hear about the middle of the second movement down. I trimmed the bit of plastic with a utility knife so it no longer rubs and in normal use I doubt that the upper section will get that low.

 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
According to some of the weather forecasts you might get to try it out soon.
Got to try it out this morning in wet sloppy snow that was about 5" deep - definitely not ideal conditions - been a strange day as there has been several flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder starting early this morning and just had some more pass about 20 minutes ago. The snowcaster and the chute worked ok but the snow moisture condition and temperature was such that the snow caster was pushing the snow in front of it in some spots rather than the snow feeding in nicely and exiting out the chute. One problem I did have was that after about 5 minutes of use the left hand mounting pin decided to leave home which made lifting the snowcaster impossible - not sure if the retaining clip broke or popped out but did mumble a few choice words trying to stick another pin back in the hole so I reattach the left side and lift the snow caster and get it back to the shop for a more permanent repair. The pins need to be about 2" long between the edge of the head and where the R clip pushes into the hole and all I had was a short 1" one in the tool box so once I finally got it back in the hole I moved the snow caster and tractor back in the shop and went on the hunt for a longer pin. Stole one from the mower deck which was still too short but it was long enough that I could install the R clip between the U and the inner edge of the front axle tab to get going again. Once I got things cleaned up around the shop and house I parked the snow caster and turned a new pin out on the metal lathe and then got it installed with a new R clip - will see how long it stays put. Went out after lunch and looked for about 15 minutes where the original had fallen out but did not find the original pin so I am thinking it is probably gone - might show up in the spring. Will have to make a couple more spares to have on hand just in case I have the same thing happen again. Sorry, but no pictures. The good thing was that the snowcaster kept blowing the snow as long as I could feed it into it and there was no sign of the chute icing up or the opening plugging with the wet crap. The chute was staying in position where I moved it to with the hand crank which was also good and being able to move the upper part of the chute from the seat was also nice as it made working around the buildings nicer to direct the snow where I wanted it.
 

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Got to try it out this morning in wet sloppy snow that was about 5" deep - definitely not ideal conditions - been a strange day as there has been several flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder starting early this morning and just had some more pass about 20 minutes ago. The snowcaster and the chute worked ok but the snow moisture condition and temperature was such that the snow caster was pushing the snow in front of it in some spots rather than the snow feeding in nicely and exiting out the chute. One problem I did have was that after about 5 minutes of use the left hand mounting pin decided to leave home which made lifting the snowcaster impossible - not sure if the retaining clip broke or popped out but did mumble a few choice words trying to stick another pin back in the hole so I reattach the left side and lift the snow caster and get it back to the shop for a more permanent repair. The pins need to be about 2" long between the edge of the head and where the R clip pushes into the hole and all I had was a short 1" one in the tool box so once I finally got it back in the hole I moved the snow caster and tractor back in the shop and went on the hunt for a longer pin. Stole one from the mower deck which was still too short but it was long enough that I could install the R clip between the U and the inner edge of the front axle tab to get going again. Once I got things cleaned up around the shop and house I parked the snow caster and turned a new pin out on the metal lathe and then got it installed with a new R clip - will see how long it stays put. Went out after lunch and looked for about 15 minutes where the original had fallen out but did not find the original pin so I am thinking it is probably gone - might show up in the spring. Will have to make a couple more spares to have on hand just in case I have the same thing happen again. Sorry, but no pictures. The good thing was that the snowcaster kept blowing the snow as long as I could feed it into it and there was no sign of the chute icing up or the opening plugging with the wet crap. The chute was staying in position where I moved it to with the hand crank which was also good and being able to move the upper part of the chute from the seat was also nice as it made working around the buildings nicer to direct the snow where I wanted it.
It's too bad that you lost the pin! I sure hope you don't end up "finding it" when it goes through the blower. I shouldn't mention things like that! Sorry!! But that's about what would happen to me. Do you have any sort of strong magnet you could try to get ahold of it with? Hope for a thaw and maybe you'll find it in the gravel. Good to hear that your modifications to the chute worked out. It's always satisfying to see your labors give good results.
 

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I made a couple of pins from grade 5 bolts. Used ones that had long enough shank between the head and where the threads ended. Sawed off the threaded part, drilled a hole for the spring clip and ground a taper on the end. Other than having a hex head they look pretty much like any other attachment mounting pin. Of course if you don't have any suitable bolts on hand you would have to go buy them. Which leaves the question, would a new pin cost more or a new bolt? Might be cheaper to just buy a new pin? Could weld a washer for a head on a short piece of round stock. I have done that trick too, quick and easy. Just thoughts. It sounds like you already have the problem solved though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 · (Edited)
I made a couple of pins from grade 5 bolts. Used ones that had long enough shank between the head and where the threads ended. Sawed off the threaded part, drilled a hole for the spring clip and ground a taper on the end. Other than having a hex head they look pretty much like any other attachment mounting pin. Of course if you don't have any suitable bolts on hand you would have to go buy them. Which leaves the question, would a new pin cost more or a new bolt? Might be cheaper to just buy a new pin? Could weld a washer for a head on a short piece of round stock. I have done that trick too, quick and easy. Just thoughts. It sounds like you already have the problem solved though.
5/8" bolts would work fine and I may pick up a couple at the hardware store next time I am in town to have on hand. If the pin comes out again I also have some 5/8" round stock that I can cut and put a 1/8" hole at both ends and use two cotter pins - might take a few minutes longer to remove a cotter pin but more secure than an R clip - will see what happens. Since I have the PTO adjusted to the top of its travel for now with the new belts I installed when I was using the chipper I noticed that the PTO coupler I use was rubbing just a hair on the front axle area when the blower and tractor were on an extreme angle if the blower or rear end of the tractor was riding up on the snow that was packed down - yestedays snow was great for making snowmen (or snowwomen). This morning I removed the coupler and exchanged it with a factory one as they are slightly smaller in diameter on the yokes. The one I have been using was a mix match that I picked up from an old Bolens place many years ago so I would have a second one. It had a splined yoke that was badly worn and the other rectangular slip joint was off of something else as the chap had put a step style U joint to match the different yoke widths. Will see how the factory one works out as it is used as well (picked it up on the 1053 deal but seems to be in good shape and took grease in the fitting. I also added a grease fitting on it where the shaft slides so I can lubricate it easier without removing it.
 

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I figured that you probably had the situation resolved. I guess it's a common thing to have a few glitches here and there when you use older equipment like we do. Would brand- new from the dealer equipment be any better? Maybe, maybe not. Your addition of the grease nipple on the U-joint shaft connection was a great idea, Bolens should have built them like that right from the factory. My 3 cents anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
I guess it's a common thing to have a few glitches here and there when you use older equipment like we do. Would brand- new from the dealer equipment be any better? Maybe, maybe not.
I doubt if the new equipment would be much better if as good as bushings have replace bearing in a lot of cases and the new stuff is not built nearly as heavy - just my opinion.

Round two went much better today as the temperature was colder at 24°F so the snow fed into the snow caster and exited out the chute. The R clips did their job so the hitch pins stayed in place and the used slip joint coupler worked fine without any vibrations or noise. Being able to move the top part of the cute up or down from the seat is definitely handy when dealing with a 20 mph wind out of the West as I can control the exit angle of the snow so the wind does not swirl it back on me much. One thing I did notice is that the new U shaped top chute section I made appears to allow the snow to exit better as the snow stays flatter at the top edge rather than exiting in a half circle pattern with the round top of the chute - might just be my imagination. Did find a few stones out at the road again where the plow wing picked them up and mixed them in with the snow - don't know what gravel they used on the shoulders last year but it sure has not packed down very well like the old stuff from years past did. Looks like I will have to touch up the auger in the spring again but for now things seem to be working ok.
 
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