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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, long time no see haha, i picked up a g10 in trade yesterday and the wiring looks hacked up, im looking for a good diagram of the wire hookups, it has the Tecumseh 10hp motor with solid state ignition, also the rear does not want to roll constantly in neutral, it will roll and then lock up and then roll again, any help is greatly appreciated! thanks guys
 

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There is a wiring diagram in the G10 parts manual, which you can download here:
http://gardentractor...olens-1055-g10/

It isn't supposed to roll in neutral. There is a worm gear that drives the differential which keeps it from rolling.

You need to remove the "Free Wheeling Pin" to allow it to roll. It's on the right axle. It can be pretty hard to remove it if it hasn't been moved for a long time. Try moving it first, then try soaking it with a good penetrating oil like PBblaster. As a last resort, you can remove the right wheel, and 'thump' it. Just be careful to not hit it too hard and deform it, or you won't be able to get it back in.

That's discussed on Pg 13 of the G9, G10, G12, G14 Owners Manual which you can download here:
http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/1748-bolens-g9g10g12-g14-ownersoperators-manual/

Here's a better pic of where it's located:
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:34969]
 
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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you both for your help, both worked! now its been awhile since ive messed with garden tractors, but im sure smoking out of the carb isnt normal any ideas?
 

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I see that the rear axle end-play adjustment is described on page 25 of the Owner's Manual, which Old Buzzard linked to above.
 

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The rear-axle end play more-than-likely needs to be adjusted. .....I think the procedure is described in the Service Manual linked here:

http://gardentractor...frame-552875-1/

Failure to properly adjust the end-play will cause major/expensive damage to the transaxle, if the adjustment is ignored too long.
I was reading through the manual to try and see what you were talking about. Is the axle end-play adjustment what they refer to as "worm wheel centering" in the service manual? It is kind of hard to follow in the manual and it is in reference to final assembly of the transaxle if you tore it all apart to rebuild it or something. How would you go about just adjusting the end play in the rear axle without taking it all apart, or is that what you have to do? I'm just thinking about it since I already have my transaxle drained and partially disassembled already, I should probably check the end play at least on mine before I put it back together. Although if it is off a bit, IDK how I would fix that as I don't have any extra shims I could put in there to get rid of any excessive end play anyways...
 

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How would you go about just adjusting the end play in the rear axle without taking it all apart, or is that what you have to do? No. I'm just thinking about it since I already have my transaxle drained and partially disassembled already, I should probably check the end play at least on mine before I put it back together. Correct! Although if it is off a bit, IDK how I would fix that as I don't have any extra shims I could put in there to get rid of any excessive end play anyways...No shims needed.
The adjustment is very easy to do. .....Follow the directions on the yellow page in this link:

http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/2739-bolens-rear-axle-end-play-adjustment/
 
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Be careful trying to get the freewheel pin out of the axle. I bought a huskey 1000 that the PO busted off the cast ear while trying to get the pin out. I didnt notice that until I got it home. Not sure if brazing would hold. he put a hose clamp on it and it would come out every once in a while. Kind of a PITA to find in the snow. Thats the first thing I look at when buying a Bolens
 

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Not sure if brazing would hold.
That's exactly what I did with mine. I took it down to Govel Welding in Albany and he brazed up the broken ear (thankfully I had the broken part to fix it since I just broke it). It certainly cost me a pretty penny, but I don't have the equipment to weld or braze it myself. (Cost me about $80, but I had to bring him the whole tractor because of what was broken on it and he had to drive it over his pit to try and get in there.) So far it has held fine, but it only happened this summer. He also got the pin out for me and lubed it up so it slides in and out nice and easy. Hopefully it will last for a long time, especially since it's not really a part that get stressed a lot if you're not beating it up with a prybar or anything!

In any event, I'd definitely suggest you get yours brazed back on so you don't lose the pin in the snow. It should hold pretty well.
 
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In any event, I'd definitely suggest you get yours brazed back on so you don't lose the pin in the snow. It should hold pretty well.
I sold mine for scrap 10 years after retiring it. repowered with a kohler twin and the steering went out. still have the original engine (smoker) and the busted part in a parts bucket somewhere
 
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