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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I decided to work on a late model G10 that was given to me several years back. I had it running and driving soon thereafter but it had multiple issues and being a 3-speed with no locking differential I didn't feel like investing much money into it. Fast forward to the present and I've come to the realization that I've got too much junk. I hate scrapping things that are fixable so I figured I could get this one going and (maybe) send it down the road.

The main issue was the cracked front axle cradle/support. I've disassembled a few true parts machines over the years and I happened to have an extra one on hand. It's an older one that hasn't been 'lightened'.
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I didn't like the look of the front axle pivot pin so I fashioned a new one out of some old 5/8" round stock. Not too bad considering I used an angle grinder and cordless drill. Shameless plug in the last shot for my Maxim 728 snow thrower. Weighs more than a tube frame for sure.
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I noticed the front axle pivot bore wasn't drilled for a grease fitting, another cost cutting measure. I addressed that as well. I had started to counterbore it with a larger drill bit to match my other machines but I soon decided against it. Maybe someday when I fix the drill press...
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Another big issue is with the exhaust port on the motor. It appears that the original exhaust pipe loosened up, rattled around and enlarged/elongated the pipe threads. There's also a ring around the flange that would prevent a good seal. Thankfully the flange bolt threads are okay, so I'm thinking I may be able to file it down flat. If so I have a bolt-on pipe flange that I can use. After looking at the pictures I noticed a hole inside the exhaust port. I'm not sure if it exits the side of the block or not.
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If all else fails, I have a similar Briggs 11hp that I could try. I'm going to have to take parts from it regardless as this tractor didn't come with a blower housing and I 'borrowed' the carburetor for another project. Alternatively I've also been toying with the idea of putting a small 5hp Briggs on it and relegating it to light duty jobs. With fuel prices going the way they are that might not be a bad idea.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Agreed, it would likely be my best looking tractor after a power wash. It also has the tightest steering of any tube frame I've had. I don't think it was used much before the cradle broke and it was put out to pasture.

It's going to need a new ignition switch and wiring. That should be a very simple job with one of these tractors, especially if I eliminate the safety switches. But I may consider adding lights. I noticed one axle seal leaking and a nice dent on the driveshaft brake drum. I've never worked on one of these 3-speed tractors but I figure this is a good one to practice on before finally getting to the 600.

Didn't you have a 5hp on one of your tractors for a while? I'm guessing you only used it to test things out.
 

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Yes I did briefly put a 5 hp. B&S on this 1254 that I am puttering with now. And yes it was to verify that the transmission worked and/or wasn’t noisy. My version was 2 scraps of 2x4 bolted to the frame and the motor bolted to them. I used carriage bolts because that’s what I found in my hardware stash. The original drive belts even worked. I never actually tried to work it, I just drove it around a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I decided to go with the 11hp Briggs. It's complete and doesn't appear to have much run time. It also has the "Oil Gard" system and a 10 amp stator with a regulator so I won't have to deal with the original dual circuit setup. It's a slightly better motor than the original, having a replaceable sleeve bearing on the PTO end versus a plain bearing. Thankfully it was stored with a drained fuel system so the only thing I really had to do was change the fuel lines and clean up after Fluffy before I had it running. I'll be changing the exhaust and air cleaner setups at a later time.
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I also upgraded the rear wheels to lug nuts after freeing up the freewheel pin. The lugs could probably be a little longer but the price was right.
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I freed up the PTO linkage and replaced a few roll pins. The parking brake lever is next. Actually the entire brake system needs attention. I ordered a new driveshaft brake drum but I'm not sure what to do about the broken torsion spring on the brake rod assembly yet.
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I think I'm making her uglier. If I get the motor pulley swapped over I may be able to try her out a bit tomorrow.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Freed up that parking brake lever, installed the motor pulley, filled her up with new oil and drove her around a bit. She definitely looks promising. The muffler even came out with no fuss. I was planning to change out the air cleaner to the original one so the hood would fit but the mounting rod threads are different. I might make a new rod or just Helicoil it, not sure yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still no pictures for today. I managed to get the stock air cleaner setup installed. The rod that came with the motor was longer, so I simply added more threads then cut it to length. I also found that the dipstick the motor came with won't work with the tractor's heat shield. It sits too high. I swapped the original over only to find that apparently Bolens ground the cylinder head for clearance. The head of the dipstick won't sit in the tube otherwise. I started grinding on the new motor with a Dremel but I ran out of time. It still needs a bit more work.

I don't have any good hood hinges around and this tractor needs one. Does anyone have any good suggestions?
 

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It seems quite common on the tube frame tractors for the hinge and or the bottom of the hood where the hinge bolts to it to be bent, stress cracked. People unbolt the hood support strap from the motor while working on whatever and the hood tilts way too far forward. I have heated, hammered, straightened, welded on all of my tube tractors hoods and hinges. I can look through my collection of "stuff" and see if I have a decent extra hinge. I might. I'll get back to you later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yep, it's common issue for sure. That's why I don't have any extras lying around. Actually this tractor came with a good hinge but I stole it to use on a 1556 I fixed up. Honestly I never thought I'd be getting this G10 going again. I was thinking about checking to see what the box stores had but I'm afraid they'd be too flimsy.
 
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