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Bolens (Pole) Barn find

3K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  Bruce Dorsi 
#1 ·
Bought some land in the Shenandoah Valley a year or so ago. I knew there was an old pole barn buried in brambles and vines in the back of an old hay field. I finally worked my way back to it and cleared enough vegetation to go through the contents.

Found this Bolens Huski with a Briggs and Stratton NPR6. I plan to get the engine running first, then see if I can get the rusted tractor mechanicals working. Does anyone have copies of or links to the older manuals, and can anyone give me more details on my machine? I was told it is probably a 12A but there is no model number on it that I can find. Not sure if there is a database somewhere that can give me the year it was made based off of the serial number in the pic.

Thanks!
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Nice find you got there, Found this link to Briggs & Stratton engine identification Briggs Mfg. Date List (A -- PC)
If i'm reading it right, I beleive your engine (NPR6) means model NP , R is for "Gear Reduction" 6 for "6:1 gear reduction ratio". like I said hopefully i'm reading this right , but if you scroll down and find the NP series engine listing , it says that "The serial number shown under the Month and Year is the last serial number built in that month" if that is so and the engine is original ..... it is saying the engine was built between FEB. & MARCH of 1948. not sure what Bolens model you have but maybe this will help narrow down the year and model it may be. Out of curiosity ....looks like in your one photo , it looks like a tractor or something like it hiding under that tarp, what is hiding under there ?
 
#3 ·
Welcome to the forum! Good save! It looks very much like one I have. Look back on the frame behind the motor for a smaller tag with the model no. on it. Are the tires any good? Exact same style on mine, but they were cracked so bad I couldn't save them. That Briggs motor shouldn't be terribly hard to get going again. Does it turn over or set up? Either way, put some oil, ATF, diesel fuel, etc. down the spark plug hole and get the valves, rings lubed up. You probably knew that already. Just sayin'.
 
#7 ·
Haven't played with anything yet, will drag it out to a storage unit where I have some tools, hopefully this weekend, weather permitting. The left tire has a serious flat spot, the other doesn't seem too bad. The both turn so there's hope. Looking at the amount of oil seeping I assume the engine will also turn. Fingers crossed!
 
#4 ·
Hello, and welcome to GTT. ....Lots of Bolens owners and info to be found here.

Thanks for the nice, clear, pics you posted. (y) ...Most people take pics from 100 feet away and expect someone to pick up details.(n)

Yes, the NPR6 is a Briggs & Stratton engine. ...Your Serial # 822469 indicates it was manufactured in March, 1948. ....If that is the original engine for that tractor, the tractor would have been built 1 or 2 months later.

I am 99% certain the tractor is a 12A. ...It appears to be in good condition considering it's 74 years old! (I was born June, '48.)

I just updated the dead link here: Power HO model 12A
 
#11 ·
You should be able to unsolder the spark plug wire from the lug on the coil and replace just the wire. I've done it many times on older B&S motors. You might find that the coil still has plenty of spark still in it. That's a maybe. Being stored inside and dry helps with that possibility. Just for grins, try cleaning and gaping the points, you might have a spark. Reasonably good chance that the condenser has gone flat by now though. Your local NAPA should be able to get you points,condensers, oil seals. Also check with Bolens Parts & Supplies listed here on the forum. Brian has lots of parts for older Bolens equipment. Lacking that, check on eBay.
 
#13 ·
OK, so I couldn't wait for the weekend. Pulled the tractor out, took off the attachment and pulled the engine so I could work on a bench. Oil bath container had a few bugs but cleaned up nicely, filter element looks practically new?
 

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#22 · (Edited)
If you didn't notice, there is a notch in the tab attached to the cover, to hook onto the filler opening to hold the spring-loaded cap open. ....You do not have to hold it open with your fingers.

Some years, Bolens included a "tool" to make filling oil easier.

Edit: I should mention the correct oil level is to the TOP of the filler opening. ...With the base level, excess oil should spill out.
 

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#16 ·
Pulled the spark plug. It looked ok, but a lot of carbon inside the cylinder head and top of piston. Engine turns freely (you can see the piston changing positions) but no compression so I'm going to have to go into the head anyways once I get everything cleaned off.
 

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#21 ·
Could be an old Willard (Willard Electric) - just a guess.

If you are trying to figure out a spark plug number for the NPR6 engine - according to the Briggs Antique Handbook the NPR6 is considered a base model N engine and the Champion number recommended for it is a J8 and the Autolite number shown is A7F. The J8 is now a J8C or 841 Champion.
https://www.gardentractortalk.com/d...briggs-1919-to-1981-antique-engine-manual.pdf

As with any plug application compare the reach of the plug with the clearance in the combustion area to make sure the piston will not hit the electrode. If you get the engine running check the color of the spark plug once it has been ran for about 10 - 15 minutes. Should be a nice tan color if the mixture is set close and the heat range is correct. Black indicates a rich mixture and or the plug heat range is too cold. White indicates a lean mixture and or the the plug heat range is too hot. If the plug comes out white do not continue to use the plug - go down a heat range or two colder and check the color after installing the colder plug. Continuing to run the engine with a "too hot" spark plug can damage the engine internally and may cause the top of the piston and other components to melt.
 
#30 ·
Got the head, intake and valve cover off. Exhaust valve will need a lot of work - intake valve is a bit better (and the seat is nice and shiny) but the intake valve spring compresses a LOT easier than the exhaust spring... not sure if that is a bug or a feature yet.
 

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