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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am planning to build a close in design replica of the Hydro-Speed Scraper Blade unit that can be mid mounted underneath a Bolens Tubeframe tractor and planning on having it fit my 1053. Think I have figured out a way to create the blade and give it a similar shape to the curve that was on the original unit and I have found pictures with dimensions for the rear U of the framework that mounts underneath the tractor and attaches to the rear lugs on the rear differential.
Since I would like to make my unit very similar to the mount that was used originally I am wondering if someone that has a factory unit would be kind enough to take some measurements of the front part of the U that the scraper blade attaches to - worse case scenario I can guess but will probably guess wrong. I have attached a drawing of the U frame marked out with the dimensions I would like there is a jpeg of the drawing and a pdf that can be downloaded and printed off that the sizes can be marked on. If someone could take the time to do that and then either take a picture of the drawing with the dimensions filled in or scan it and upload it here it would be very helpful - thank you in advance.
Front U Scraper Frame Dimensions Needed .jpg

Here is a link to the thread on the site that shows the scraper blade unit mounted underneath a tubeframe.
Thanks to LPbolens (another grader blade thread)
 

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I’ll dig out my mid-mount blade and get you some pics and measurements. If it’s the same brand blade, not sure. At work now-so this will be late afternoon/evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ll dig out my mid-mount blade and get you some pics and measurements. If it’s the same brand blade, not sure. At work now-so this will be late afternoon/evening.
Thanks Dave - appreciate the help - not urgent.
 

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Here's the one I have. If this looks like a Hydro-Speed I can help with some dims. The blade itself measures 41 1/2" wide. I got this several years ago and I suspected there was several pieces of important linkage, etc. missing. I fabricated the mount you see bolted to the front frame that the blade mounts to. The shorter one I believe was to be used if the blade was mounted to push from the front axle or mounted as a rear mount blade. I remember getting some measurements from someone which helped me fab the mount seen in the pics. I added extra plates to it where the mounting pins attach it to the rear axle. Thought it would be less strain on the pins and less wear to the holes in the lugs of the rear axle. I also designed my own version of a dual lift linkage and cross-shaft that bolts to the bottom of the support tunnel of the tractor. Had this mounted under my 1054 and did some driveway work with it. There's more to the story, but first off, does this look like what you are going to build? I did a thread about this a few years back over on the MTF site, I suppose it could be found if one was to do a search.
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A Little Off Plumb
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here's the one I have. If this looks like a Hydro-Speed I can help with some dims. The blade itself measures 41 1/2" wide. I got this several years ago and I suspected there was several pieces of important linkage, etc. missing. I fabricated the mount you see bolted to the front frame that the blade mounts to. The shorter one I believe was to be used if the blade was mounted to push from the front axle or mounted as a rear mount blade. I remember getting some measurements from someone which helped me fab the mount seen in the pics. I added extra plates to it where the mounting pins attach it to the rear axle. Thought it would be less strain on the pins and less wear to the holes in the lugs of the rear axle. I also designed my own version of a dual lift linkage and cross-shaft that bolts to the bottom of the support tunnel of the tractor. Had this mounted under my 1054 and did some driveway work with it. There's more to the story, but first off, does this look like what you are going to build? I did a thread about this a few years back over on the MTF site, I suppose it could be found if one was to do a search.
Yes that is the one that I am going to try and replicate - the blade may not have an identical curve but hoping to make the mount that the blade pivots on (and the part that bolts onto it and attaches to the rear axle lugs) as close to the original as I can. This thread shows the dimensions for the rear part of the bracket that attaches to the rear axle lugs and the bracket that mounts to the front axle lugs - Bolens Tube Frame Mid Mount Grader Blade post #35.
What I am needing is the measurements for the front part of the framework that the blade attaches to and pivots on - if you can provide them it would be very helpful as that way I could get the dimensions correct and also use the correct thickness and width of material for the framework pieces. Guessing at 3/8" x 2" for the framework material but not sure?

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dave was kind enough to send me some drawings he did via a PM so here they are in case anyone else is interested in the sizes. Looks like the main framework was made from 1-1/2" x 3/8" flat steel which I will have to get on order. The plate that the blade pivots on was 3/8" x 5" plate - I think I have some 1/2" x 6" flat steel left over from when I built my sheet metal press so I may substitute that for the 5" plate as I am not trying to make an exact replica of the original unit.
Top View.jpg
Rear View.jpg
Side View.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the steel to make the framework on order this morning. Decided to start making the two plates that attach to the blade and the framework - figured that 1/2" thick should be close enough to the 3/8" that was used on the original units since I had it left over from another project. Dug out the piece of 1/2" x 6" flat steel and set it up in the chop saw to create four pieces 6" x 5" - had to flip the steel over to finish the cuts each time.
1 Ready To Cut Half Inch X Six Flat Steel.jpg
2 Time to Flip Steel.jpg
3 Flat Steel Flipped To Finish Cut.jpg
4 Piece Six Inches X Five Inches.jpg
5 Four Pieces Cut.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A couple of the cuts were off just a smidge from flipping the steel to finish the cut but close enough for me - smoothed them up with the sander. Got the edges of two pieces sanded to create a V and clamped them to a piece of U channel and tack welded them on both sides.
6 A Couple Of Cuts Off Just A Smidge.jpg
7 Edges Sanded To Create A V.jpg
8 Clamped To Tack Two Pieces Together.jpg
9 Tack Welded On Both Sides.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Things looked good so I clamped the two pieces to the U channel with the vise grips and added a couple of C clamps and made three passes with the Mig to fill in and built up the weld joining the two pieces together. Sanded the weld and let things cool for about 15 minutes and then flipped the piece over, clamped it again and filled in the other side with the Mig, sanded and again let it cool.
10 First Pass With MIG Welder.jpg
11 AfterThird Pass With MIG.jpg
12 Weld Sanded And Left To Cool.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After things cooled I checked the piece with the straight edge to see how much the heat from welding had distorted things - there is a slight curve in the newly formed plate that I will try and remove with my little press. Still have to join the other two pieces together to form the second plate but I now have the one plate pretty much done - will have to trim the length by about an inch as right now it measures 12" x 5".
13 Checking Distortion From Heat After Welding And Sanding.jpg
14 Checking Distortion From Heat After Welding And Sanding.jpg
15 Plate Twelve Inches X Five Inches Half Inch Thick.jpg
16.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the kind words Dave.
Took the dimensions from your drawings and added them to the drawing that I did in the first post - think I got them all correct
10 Front U Scraper Frame Dimensions Final.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Without your version I couldn't have made mine - thought it might be helpful if someone else wants to make the front part of the framework.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the two other pieces welded together to form the second plate - it distorted about the same so I treated each of the plates to a little pressure in my 10 ton press. The plates are not perfectly flat but very close so I moved on to making them the correct length. Cut the plate that will mount to the bottom of the frame at 11" which should allow it to overlap the frame by 1/8" on either edge allowing a 1/4" area that I can weld the plate to the frame (I hope). Made the plate that will attach to the blade 11-1/2" wide which is the same width as the outside of the frame. (Trying an experiment by leaving my pictures full size and attaching them as thumbnails - let me know if this is as good or better than inserting the images full size.)

1 Second Plate Welded.jpg 2 After A Trip To The Press.jpg 3 Plate For Frame Cut At Eleven Inches.jpg 4 Plate For Blade Cut At Eleven And One Half Inches.jpg

Marked out the hole locations for the center bolt and the pin holes in the frame plate as per Dave's drawing. After studying the blade pictures in other threads I noticed that the plate that attaches to the blade appears to be stepped forward a bit so I made the center hole in the blade plate 2-1/8" in from the edge to provide a 1/4" step. As you can see in the pictures it actually measures 9/32" which I will live with - slipped with the center punch a little bit. Drilled 1/8" pilot holes and then enlarged the center holes to 3/8" to allow me to bolt the two plates together and drill the two straight pin hole locations by clamping the two plates together.

5 Holes Marked Out On Plate For Frame.jpg 6 Centre Hole Marked On Plate For Blade.jpg 7 Pilot Holes Drilled.jpg 8 Center Holes Drilled To Three Eighths.jpg 9 Blade Plate Sits Nine Thirty Seconds Ahead Of Frame Plate.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did some studying of the blade in other threads and decided to make the rear pin angle holes 1" in from the blade plate edge so I clamped the plates together and drilled pilot holes for the pins and then I split the difference for the location of the middle pin angle holes. They are not perfectly spaced but should work ok allowing enough material around each hole to keep wear to a minimum. Drilled all the pilot holes for the pins out to 3/8".

10 Rear Angle Hole Marked One Inch Ahead Of Rear Edge.jpg 11 Middle ANgle Hole Marked About Half Way Between Rear Hole And Straight.jpg 12 Pilot Holes Drilled.jpg 13 Holes Enlarged To Three Eights.jpg

Bolted the two plates back together and then used another 3/8" bolt to try pinning the two plates at straight as well as the angle locations and the bolt dropped in freely. This is as far as I will go with the two plates until I get the steel to make the blade and frame work pieces. Then I can tack things together and see how it all fits underneath a tractor and also how the holes work out for the angling of the blade. Think I am close but may have to weld in and relocate the two rear holes in case the blade swings to far and hits the rear wheels at the outer edge of the blade when it is fully angled.

14 Straight Hole Pinned.jpg 15 First Angle Hole Pinned.jpg 16 Second Angle Hole Pinned.jpg 17 Pinned Other Way.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The two lengths of 1-1/2" X 3/8" flat steel showed up early so I picked them up yesterday - the place was kind enough to cut them into 5 foot lengths so they would fit in the car trunk. Took some time this morning and cut the pieces that will form the front frame - went with the hacksaw as it is more cost effective per cut and wastes less metal than the chop saw. Cut four pieces 41-1/2" long that will be used to form the 6" high blade. Thinking that the original blade may have been 1/2" thick but figured that the 3/8" should be lots strong and costs a bit less than 1/2". Bent a couple of pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" flat steel and clamped two of the lengths together to see if they would give enough roll to create a curved blade. Looks not too bad but may give them a little bit more of a bend - not sure.
1 Pieces Cut For Front Frame.jpg 2 Four Pieces 41.5 Inches Long  Cut To Make Blade.jpg 3 Two Pieces Of Flat Steel Bent And Clamped To Create Curve In Blade.jpg
 

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Yes, the blade is indeed 1/2" thick. It appears to have been machined or possibly ground to a bevel on the backside of both surfaces along the length. Possibly hardened a bit too? Just a guess on that. I didn't look real close but presume that the blade can be unbolted from the frame and flipped over so that both surfaces can be used. Just like the cutting edge bar that fits on the snow,dirt blade. Are you going to run a couple beads of hard surface weld along the edges of your blade? I surmise you have a stick welder too? The welding rods are a bit spendy but it does make a noticeable difference on a wear surface. I wonder if a cutting edge/ wear plate from a township snowplow or grader would be anywhere close in size to one of these blades? Just a thought. Unless you are doing a lot of really hard digging in dirt/gravel your 3/8" plate should serve you for quite a while. IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the input - appreciate the thoughts and concerns. Good to know the original was 1/2" thick - looking at the pictures I have found it appears the blade is welded directly to the pivot plate and the bracing - may have been bolted on for some other applications. I am thinking that I will sand the bottom edge with a flap wheel to create a sharp cutting edge and try it - I can't see the 3/8" wearing all that quickly since I won't be breaking any speed or distance records with the tractor. Worst case if it does start to wear I can get a piece of 1/2" x 1-1/2" flat steel and use it as a new cutting edge and bolt it to the bottom of the 3/8" blade..
 
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