[tweidman]

This is the earliest picture I could find of my 1855a that I bought back in 2010. It was a partially dismantled roller, that was missing an engine and a few other important parts. I started a re-power post about it back then and worked hard toward stuffing a 26hp water cooled Kohler into this machine. However, between difficulties fitting all of that stuff under the hood and a move to a new house, this project got put on, the almost permanent, back burner.

I got fairly far along before I realized that I wasn't going to be able to make the Kohler work under the hood and keep everything cool like I thought. I then did a partial restoration on a MF1020 and moved to a new house and property that needed a ton of work. I did drag the tractor into my new shop a couple of years ago, but I wasn't sure where to begin.

By this time, I had fabricate a steel dash started to install power steering and sourced a ton of parts.

 

[jason silliker]

Good to see you're back at it Todd!!!!

 

[Mark 149 J.]

Nice looking tractor and shop!

 

[tweidman]

Earlier this year I was looking at Marketplace and stumbled across another 1855. It was used hard and a little chopped up, but it did run and drive and had a newer 20hp Onan under the hood. The owner said low hours and it runs nice. Unfortunately the old owner did not switch the exhaust over and just cut holes in the hood to vent the exhaust and heat. This machine originally had the vac and pac option, but the box was missing. The deck seems beyond salvageable, but I was able to negotiate a deal for it.

 

[tweidman]

After evaluating this newer 1855, I knew my original 1855a was the tractor I wanted to restore. I plan on using my new acquisition as a parts machine, only using the newer Onan 20hp engine, some front PTO parts and few other odds and ends that I need to make one good tractor. I had a heck of a time removing the blower from the rear PTO on the new purchase.
So, I decided to take my original tractor completely apart to see if I need any unforseen parts. I started with the rear PTO, then I removed the Kohler engine, radiator and radiator plumbing.

 

[TUDOR]

Inspect the rear bearing on the PTO shaft and the front bearing on the drive shaft. Both of those bearings wore grooves in the shafts of my MF1655.

If the deck on the newer tractor is going scrap, take it apart and check the condition of the cogged pulleys. A few years ago, they were no longer available and used ones in good condition were going for $100 for the singles on ebay. The double pulleys were even more since they can be also used in place of the singles.

 

[tweidman]

I found my original post for this build from way back, sadly all of the linked pictures have either broken of the old server is no longer in use.
(20) MF/snapper 1855 will one day be my MF2655 custom | Garden Tractor Forums (gardentractortalk.com)

 

[tweidman]

Hey Bob (TUDOR), my drive shaft and bearings are still in good shape on the tractor I am restoring, not sure about the parts machine? I was thinking about replacing the driveshaft bearings, they do seem really dry and they don't have a place to lube them. Were you able to find replacement bearings?
Also, I know all about the deck parts and how rare they are. The spindles are all locked up on that deck and I haven't pulled the covers off to inspect the pulleys. I planned on using the deck gear box and swapping it onto another deck to put on the three point, but that is for a project way down the road.

 

[TUDOR]

Hi Todd. Those spherical self aligning bearings are quite common and usually available at any place that sells bearings. Try TSC or NAPA. I forget he number offhand and don't have my bearing catalogues handy.

The bearing comes with an eccentric locking ring that needs a spanner to tighten the inner ring to, or loosen it from, the shaft. A hammer and center punch will work if you don't have the spanner. If the inner ring is not tight to the shaft, it will spin on the shaft and wear a groove that makes the shaft rattle.

Or, you can take off the flange holding the bearing in place and push some lube in through the small lubrication holes in the outer ring with a needle greaser as is used for some U-joints.

 

[tweidman]

Hi Todd. Those spherical self aligning bearings are quite common and usually available at any place that sells bearings. Try TSC or NAPA. I forget he number offhand and don't have my bearing catalogues handy.

The bearing comes with an eccentric locking ring that needs a spanner to tighten the inner ring to, or loosen it from, the shaft. A hammer and center punch will work if you don't have the spanner. If the inner ring is not tight to the shaft, it will spin on the shaft and wear a groove that makes the shaft rattle.

Or, you can take off the flange holding the bearing in place and push some lube in through the small lubrication holes in the outer ring with a needle greaser as is used for some U-joints.

Thanks for the information. I will try find them at TSC next time I am over there. I have one of those grease guns too, I will also try greasing them.

 

[tweidman]

I removed the steering tower and driveshaft assemblies. I also made some progress in removing some dents in the hood (no pics). I really wanted to get all of this stuff powder coated, but I am having a really hard time getting the hood straight enough to powder coat.

 

[TUDOR]

Something to keep in mind is that when powder coat chips, the metal will rust under the nearby powder coat creating a bubble that will eventually flake off. Painting over the chips will always look like a poor patch job.

 

[tweidman]

Something to keep in mind is that when powder coat chips, the metal will rust under the nearby powder coat creating a bubble that will eventually flake off. Painting over the chips will always look like a poor patch job.

I have powder coated things before and never had an issue with chipping. I just had all the parts and deck coated on my big commercial finish mower last year and it has held up great.
The company I use is able to do a primer coat before the finish color, which is a step other companies seem to skip. Unless I can get this hood straight, I may have to use some plastic body filler and then paint it.

 

[tweidman]

I fitted up the three point arms for the first time. I dont believe I have ever checked them before. They were off the tractor when I bought it. Then I went to disassemble everything so that I could get some of the pieces coated. The threaded adjustable parts did not want to move. I got one side to come apart but the other broke. It looks like someone had already welded on this stuff before me. I replaced the threaded portion that broke and welded everything back together.
Since I had enough threaded rod, I ended up doing both sides. (Not pictured.)

 

[IHCubCadet147]

I have powder coated things before and never had an issue with chipping. I just had all the parts and deck coated on my big commercial finish mower last year and it has held up great.
The company I use is able to do a primer coat before the finish color, which is a step other companies seem to skip. Unless I can get this hood straight, I may have to use some plastic body filler and then paint it.

Have you heard of “lab metal”? It is a filler that can be powder coated over. I have never used it, but did some research and it seems like good stuff.

Alvin Products

Alvin Products is a manufacturer of one part high temperature epoxy and adhesives used by industry since 1950.

www.alvinproducts.com

 

[tweidman]

Have you heard of “lab metal”? It is a filler that can be powder coated over. I have never used it, but did some research and it seems like good stuff.

Alvin Products

Alvin Products is a manufacturer of one part high temperature epoxy and adhesives used by industry since 1950.

www.alvinproducts.com

No, I havent. I'll look into it. Thanks.

 

[DL-North]

Following with interest.
I have a Snapper 1855 to get running (it ran when I got it - poorly) and add a 3 pt to it, plan to have a blade on ft and maybe back - just to play with.

 

[tweidman]

I was doing some digging on my old hard drive and I found the picture from when I went to go pick up this tractor years ago.

 

[tweidman]

I dont use this tool very often, but it comes in really handy when you need it. The one axle housing had a broken three point mount. I welded it to repair the existing housing. I then found a new axle housing and decided to replace it.

 

[tweidman]

I now have just about everything stripped off the frame. I pressure washed the frame and the transaxle. I also cleaned up the brake and got it functioning well and then reinstalled it. I noticed on my parts machine that someone removed the outside brake pad completely. Weird.