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Tractorholic
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I heard that the early 4 wheel tractors used the same diff. as the walkbehinds . If thats the case I think it's a spring loaded clutch so if the linkage or throwout bearing has any problem it woundn't relesase , now thats only if they are the same , sorry I couldn't be of more help , hope someone will be better able to
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, it gives me a startng point to look at once I get my tires back on and the tractor back to my garage. I know the suburban looks to be a simple machine but ive never work on small tractors so im a little lost.
 

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DB restorer
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I seen it and did a little pm with the poster. The only thing it can be is the clutch is stuck together. Real easy to test. There are two big pulleys on the right side of the tranny case. If you cant turn the outer one with out the inner one moving, then the clutch is still engaged. Possible reasons would be the disc is rusted to the back of the outer pully, the linkage to the clutch collar is bound up, the ball lock bearing isn't releasing. Fairly easy to fix. Remove the tin cover, remove the belts to the clutch and reverser, remove the set screws from the center of the outer pullys hub, then turn the outer pully off the nut in its center. That nut is held on the input shaft by a roll pin, covered by the threaded part of the outer pully. The outer pully is what does the driving of the shaft, the inside pully is the one with the clutch disc riveted to it. When you push the lever forwards the inner pully slides out towards the outer one, the ball lock bearings go over center, and the pressure hold the two pullys tight. Reverse has nothing to do with going forwards, as that part of the system is an over running pully and belt located to the rear of the main two pullys.
 

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I had this same problem when I got my first DB Suburban. The problem turned out to be the "clutch throwout plate" as the manual calls it. (accessible from below the tractor.) It's the part that slides backwards when the shift lever is moved foward.If the two square blocks that it slides on are not parallel, then it can bind; causing it to stick in forward. If one of the nuts is loose that it can cock a bit and bind too. If this is your tractor's problem then it's an easy fix. Since it was working when it happened, this would be one guess as to what went wrong, Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
my suburban is barn fresh still, idk if its worth restoring or if I should just leave it as is. Works great until this problem happened and is all orginal and is completely complete. But after seeing your picture got me thinking retoring it.
 

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I really had to paint up mine Ryan since it was slathered with a heavy coat of yellow rustoleum. And it seemed as though every moving part on it was severely worn. Like it never got any oiling or maintenance. It was truly in need of a good going over. I like the look of a worn original paint job but in this case, it had to be done.

The clutch/reverse system on these tractors can be humbling even to a well seasoned mechanic. They took me quite some time to fully understand. It's the type of system where all parts have to be in near perfect balance for the tractor to perform as designed. If you run into more trouble don't get discouraged. A lot of people have given up once they get into the clutches in these things.

Good Luck with it, Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The guy who had my tractor bought it new and actually took good care of it and was kept in a shed its whole life. So its still has most of its original paint and all parts. If I can get it running soon I gonna use it for a hay ride for my son, niece's and nefews. Any chance you're taking a trip to missouri anytime soon, haha. But thank you for the good advice.
 
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