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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week I had asked about how the shaft that the rocker arm for the varridrive attached. Well, it did not appear to be threaded and did not press out, it appears that it was a solid machined piece. Well, mine broke off where the shaft was milled down smaller.



The problem is, even if I took the entire tractor apart, there is very little room to work in there to remove the welded on boss. Even if I did get it off, exact placement would be tricky. Because it was welded on, there was some distortion on the outside of the dash tower. By using this as an approximate spot to drill the holes, I drilled out the old shaft the best I could to a hole that was a size or two under the old shaft. I did not get the hole perfectly centered, but I should have plenty of adjustment to get it right.



Now armed with my new hole, I used my Dremel tool to grind the boss smooth and flat because there was still a small lip left of the broken shaft.



Next it was off to the trusty 100 year old lathe to make a new part! I reproduced the shaft to match, but with a press fit stud that went through the hole I drilled. I did have to grind a custom bit to make that square slot the Massey style clip uses.







Given a nice tight fit, the only thing needed was to make that stud and hole invisible! I mean, I can't just leave it like that, right? So out comes the mig welder and the stud and hole is plug welded nice and deep. A minute or two with the grinder brings the dash tower back into original shape! I will be painting the dash tower with my side steps and weight box in the next week or two, so it did break at the perfect time!



So there you have it, from start to finish... how to make a broken stud look like it was never broken! You all do like these over photographed and described repair jobs, right? :D
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
I remember you asking about this last week, I wasn't sure what you were talking about but now it's clear, that's a pretty good fix, good stuff. What do they say pic worth 1000 words.
 

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Tractorholic
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111 Posts
[ so it did break at the perfect time!

well you must have all the luck then, because for me it couldnt be at a worse place or time when things SNAFU on me hahaha

another good job on a not so easy repair
 

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Tractorholic
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111 Posts
your photos are GREAT a small detail I usually forget to get,

,I have my 14 down to the frame and drive train all is done but the column and the stuff below it, my buddy is coming over this week sometime with a puller so I can get the steering wheel and the rest off the frame

I have only 3 pics from when I was helping someone with there tiller and didnt really plan on taking this as far as I am , this fast -my 70 skylark was easier to get/find parts for than this massey is and it needs to be ready to rototill and cut my grass by spring
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys... It's just second nature for me to have a camera in hand seeing as how I have one in my hand all day for work.

PS, for pulling the wheel, if you have a large bearing separator and a 3-jaw puller, this works the best. Place the bearing separator on upside down with the flat side against the bottom of the wheel. Use the 3-jaw puller to pull up from the bearing separator. This will stop the puller from damaging the wheel hub.
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
That's a great job.
 

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Premium Member
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1,616 Posts
Very nice work,I like the pics it shows what the problem was and how you did the fix.Good thinking and very nice explanation.Larry
 

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Premium Member
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15,923 Posts
I remember you asking about the problem in the other thread and didn't quite picture it other then knowing it is tight as all get out in there. You did a great job on the fix and now it is as good or better then original :thumbs:
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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32,409 Posts
NUTNDUN said:
I remember you asking about the problem in the other thread and didn't quite picture it other then knowing it is tight as all get out in there. You did a great job on the fix and now it is as good or better then original :thumbs:
I didn't quite know what he was speaking of either until this thread. Only had the MF10 w/vari-drive a short time & never had to do anything to it.
 

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Connoisseur of Rusty Junk
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5,623 Posts
Thanks for the detailed pics and the explanation! Great repair job!
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
olcowhand said:
I didn't quite know what he was speaking of either until this thread.
:ditto:
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mjodrey said:
Sooo.... what y'all are trying to say, is that the first post really just sucked, right? :mecry:

:bigrofl:
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Classic reply!
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
FirefyterEmt said:
Sooo.... what y'all are trying to say, is that the first post really just sucked, right? :mecry:

:bigrofl:
Not at all,just wasn't sure what you meant.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Well, now this job is 100% finished! Tonight I took the time to dig into the adjustment of the varri-drive again. I don't know if anyone has followed the book exactly and get it to adjust just right, but I never can. I followed the rather vague instructions and it seemed to slip taking off in 1st, so I fine tuned it while moving and all seems well now.

One thing I did dig into this time was adjusting the rear pulley. I read that you add or remove shims to do this so I never messed with it. I read that when you take out the shims, you should place them on the outside of the pulley for "storage"... Well, another look and I found that there were no shims between the pulley at all and I had maybe 6 or 8 bolted outside of the pulley. My idler pulley was also way too high (The rear pulley needed some shims so the belt would ride lower in the groove)
I had always had a problem getting the adjustment just right so the brakes worked, the gears did not grind (due to the belt still moving) and so it was easy to put on the parking brake. I always had the park feature way too hard to engage. Well, it was all due to the shims in the rear pulley. I now have a rather easy parking brake that locks the wheels tight. Although I did notice that the shaft the varri-drive runs on is a bit stiff so some lube or removal and cleaning in order. This may be what makes it hard for me to adjust the system by the book, I can not get that "free play" spot because of the drag.

So anyway, when in park, the idler pulley should be just below the frame, and at least a 1/4"above the bottom. Mine was above the frame! It is super easy to add the shims, there is just 4 bolts to remove and all the shims and the outer half of the pulley comes off. I added 4 shims and put the idler right in the middle of the frame.
 
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