Garden Tractor Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
1967 Craftsman 856C & 857C
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody,

I am looking for a way if possible to get rust pits/spots out/off of 2 of my engine parts in the pictures but mainly the first and 2nd pictures before I primer and paint them in the spring. I tried sanding them down already with some 80 grit sandpaper but that didn't seem to work. I was thinking bondo or fiberglass would do it but i'm not thinking so now because it might not hold up good and maybe catch fire or somethin' in that "nature". I asked my stepdad and he says there is no real way besides bondo but it's not wanna gonna stay on with a hot engine, so technically the same thing.

What does everyone recommend if anything, or should I just live with it?

Thanks in advance!
Wood Art Circle Rectangle Auto part
Snout Art Circle Metal Font
Wood Helmet Gas Auto part Metal
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
54,818 Posts
Use some good filler/primer. May have to sand, respray, sand, respray several times. Eventually it will fill those pits!
 

·
Tractorholic
Joined
·
8,404 Posts
Years ago there was a product called Nitro Stain that was kind of like a thick primer in a tube , I’m sure Kenny used it lol , you would prime your part then spread it over the surface with a plastic or rubber squeege , then sand smooth , they still make it but from what I’ve read it’s not to be used under the newer paints and primers. Here’s a newer version from 3 M https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067521/
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
54,818 Posts
Years ago there was a product called Nitro Stain that was kind of like a thick primer in a tube , I’m sure Kenny used it lol , you would prime your part then spread it over the surface with a plastic or rubber squeege , then sand smooth , they still make it but from what I’ve read it’s not to be used under the newer paints and primers. Here’s a newer version from 3 M https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067521/
I have used the spot putty before.
 

·
Fixer of Broken junk
Joined
·
4,881 Posts
Put the paint on thick, let it dry and sand the high spots down then shoot another coat or 2 on it. It won't be "perfect" but it will be better than it was.

You can do the same thing with Epoxy Primer. Put on a thick coat, let it dry and sand the high spots down then shoot another coat on it. Epoxy Primer is amazing for making pitted metal look good because you can build it up pretty thick. Just make sure that it's 100% dry before painting over Epoxy Primer. Let it dry for 24 hours. It can discolor paint, and warp and ripple your top coat of paint like cottage cheese.

I had to re-strip and repaint the hood on my 582 Cub because I got in a bit of a hurry. The primer must have just been dry on the surface. After 1 good coat of paint it started to ripple and look like cottage cheese.

I have problems with Oil Based implement paint Lifting after a couple of years if I use Epoxy Primer. I never use primer if I'm using Oil Based Tractor and Implement paint. It seems to be more durable and stick alot better without primer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
JB Weld works well on small parts.
I literally just watched a rehab of a 1950's kids metal toy truck that was all rusted, that was filled with JB Weld. Looked good in the end, but I had never seen that before. I would use Glazing Putty as it is much softer and easier to sand to a flat surface.
 

·
Registered
1967 Craftsman 856C & 857C
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you everyone for their responses and advice. Right now the plan is to fully sandblast the parts again, sand them, then put this stuff below I got from my local AutoZone on, then sand them again, then repeat the process of sanding then primering. Hopefully my trick here will do it, if it doesn't I will be using the primer anyway for my engine when I paint it but I will try some of these other ideas......
Fluid Wood Liquid Flooring Drink
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top