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With the tractor running good now, I took the time to replace a few things and clean and service the tractor. I replaced the drive belts, muffler, choke cable, springs in the drag link,front wheel bushings, and changed out the engine and rear end oil. This tractor sat for a very long time, so the old grease was hardened up on and in everything. The springs in the adjustable drag link were broken, so the steering couldn't be adjusted properly. I found a spring in a jar in the shed and made two replacement springs out of it. I cleaned the old grease out of the rear hubs, all of the steering components, and from the clutch assembly. I changed out the engine oil with SAE 30w and put 85w-140w in the rear. Below is a picture of the correct drive belts. When installing the long belt from the clutch to the rear end, the engine has to be moved on the frame rails to get the correct tension on the belt. I had to move my engine ahead about 1/4" to get the correct tension. The short belt from the clutch to the engine is very simple to adjust,just loosen the bolt on the cast belt guard and move the linkage up or down until the clutch pedal snaps into the forward position. Too tight, and it will be too hard to snap the pedal back to neutral, too loose, and the belt will slip. It took me two tries to get it just right. The original kill switch didn't work, so I disassembled it, cleaned the contacts, and it works fine now. These little tractors are built very well and very easy to work on.
 

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From what I read, the man who designed the Beaver tractor had narrow paths on his property. It is a small machine, but heavy for it's size. There was a dual wheel option and front wheel weights could also be bought with the tractor. I'm on the hunt for a pair of those wheel weights. I took the tractor for a ride through the woods this afternoon, and front weights would really help out with steering traction. Here is one with the dual wheel option.
 

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