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Tractorholic
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432 Posts
I am starting to dig into the MF16 that I bought last year. I am looking to take this one to my local tractor show in a few weeks. The tractor was hot-wired when it came to me. I put the charger on the battery, drained the bad gas from the tank, changed the oil and she runs and sounds good.


Next steps are to:
  • Replace gas line filter
  • Add fuel valve
  • Change transmission oil and replace filter
  • Bead-blast ignition switch, spark plug, spark plug cable, solenoid, and battery terminal cables.
  • Fix improper ignition wiring
  • Fix headlight wiring
  • Fix tail-lights and replace missing lens
  • Add high/low shifter knob to lever
  • Reconnect alternator leads to volage regulator
  • Lubricate zirc fittings and check wheel bearings
  • correct alignment - tow-out problem
  • put green slime in leaking tires
  • Cut-off the welded-on metal hook on the Front bumper
  • Wash and rub out paint.
  • Take new pictures
Any other suggestions to take a look at?
 

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Certified Wheel Horse Nut
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817 Posts
Looks and sounds great to me!
 
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Elf guardian
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7,712 Posts
If the steering is a bit sloppy, take a look at the front axle pivot. There is a hardened bushing in there, so
if it's loose, just replacing the bolt, and tightening it up, might be enough. Double nut it, so it stays tight.

Chances are, that the steering box needs attention too. There should be a zirc, inconveniently located on the back,
bottom of the box. You might also have to tighten the adjustment screw, on the side of the box.
 

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Tractorholic
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432 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
IamSherwood said:
If the steering is a bit sloppy, take a look at the front axle pivot. There is a hardened bushing in there, so
if it's loose, just replacing the bolt, and tightening it up, might be enough. Double nut it, so it stays tight.

Chances are, that the steering box needs attention too. There should be a zirc, inconveniently located on the back,
bottom of the box. You might also have to tighten the adjustment screw, on the side of the box.
Will, thank you for the good recommendations! I will review all of these.
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
Looks and runs pretty good to me also.
Reminds me that I need to get back to work on mine.

Good Stuff.
 

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Elf guardian
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7,712 Posts
There is also a couple of bronze bushings in the frame, for the vertical shaft on the steering arm.
I had to replace mine. A bit of a bear to get at, and get out. But made a huge difference.
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
There is also a couple of bronze bushings in the frame, for the vertical shaft on the steering arm.
I had to replace mine. A bit of a bear to get at, and get out. But made a huge difference.
Ditto on those bushings both the MF16 and the parts MF14 had lots of wear, play in them.
 

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Tractorholic
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432 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IamSherwood said:
There is also a couple of bronze bushings in the frame, for the vertical shaft on the steering arm.
I had to replace mine. A bit of a bear to get at, and get out. But made a huge difference.
I can take a look at them, assuming they do not need to be replaced, is it reasonable to grease them?
 

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Tractorholic
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1,564 Posts
That's a nice looking tractor Mark, should be great when you get all that done. I've never figured out why people neglect the little things until they pile up like that. Sounds like you'll be doing a good job.
 

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Registered
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215 Posts
you might also want to check out the pinch brake for the hydro lever, when they have sufficiant wear they can ramp up to full stroke all on there own and with a 700 lb plus GT serious carnage can follow
. I unfortunately discovered this quirk in high range with 26 inch tires and ill be darned if they arent some of the fastest gts made,on the same occasion i also discovered the loose steering parts mentioned by the other guys and a sudden need for fresh underwear
.
 

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Tractorholic
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432 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I see there is a zirc fitting inside the motor driveshaft U joint. Any ideas as to the best method for getting to this one?
 

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Elf guardian
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7,712 Posts
Yes, they're a bit tricky. No easy way around it. Shaft guard tin has to come off, to get at the back ujoint, and right side tin
by the hydra lever, to get at the front one. If memory serves me correct.
 
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