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· Mark J.
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I decided to make a 3 point hitch for my Cub 1811. The GT already has part of a hitch but it needed lower arm pins. center link, lower lift arms and upper lift links. I will be needing the hitch to us some implements for some landscaping I will be working on this summer.

The first thing I needed were some plans. Kenney P. was able to help me out by finding a set of plans. I next thing I did was try to find a business that had some of the Cat 0 parts that I needed to fab the parts. I found a place called Johnny Products that I was able to buy 4 ball ends and a center link. That cost me $68. I bought some bottom arm pins at local supply company for $13 for two.

Here's what I have so far.

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Here are the plan that Kenny found

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I still need to buy some steel. I don't have a torch to help me bend the 1/2" steel. I do have a hydraulic press but I don't know how easy it will be to bend two 45 degree bends into this steel. I could always use 1/4" steel. Make two identical arms and weld them together to make a 1/2 thick arm. If you have any suggestion please feel free to share them with me.
 

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· Super Moderator
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Somewhere on here, I have a thread where I made some lower arms that are on Alice. They are 5/8" thick. I used the turkey fryer burner to heat the bars. I'll see if I can find it today. The 20 ton press did a fine job bending them.
 

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One thing I did to help on where to bend the arms was to use the cut-off wheel of the angle grinder to score a line for the center of the bend. Just needs to be deep enough you can see it when the parts get hot. Mark the one bend, flip the part and mark the other bend. Then heat and bend away. I can get a degree measurement for those angles if you want it.

Looks like 151°. I used a 2" hole saw to cut the ends for the ball to be welded in. Put it in the drill press and squirted used motor oil to lube it. Rather messy, but works.
 

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I bend thick steel like KennyP but I don't heat the steel. Use a thin cut-off wheel to cut about halfway through the steel. Bend it. Then fill in the resulting "vee" with a few passes from your mig welder. If you want to get fancy, dress it with a grinder and a file. Obviously you cut the groove on the side opposite from the bend direction. It works great and you don't have to work with red hot steel or deal with the spring effect of cold steel.
 

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I built this for my press for bending heavy gauge steel, works wonderfully well and you can be pretty precise with it.
It's what I used to bend the three point arms for my White.
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I bought the balls and top link. Then hauled the tractor to my guy in a welding and machine shop. Little over an hour later put the tractor back on the trailer with a completed 3 point. Paid him $150 and we were both happy. That was for steel, machining the top lift pins, pins, R clips and the whole ball of wax. He did the arm bending on a 200T press, 3" off set. Did one and hit it right the first time. Did the second and it matched up perfectly. Probably took him 5 min to do both arms. Can't mess around doing it myself for that. Have the torch, 2 welders and 20 T press too but would take a couple days to do what he did in an hour. Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread
 

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· Mark J.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One thing I did to help on where to bend the arms was to use the cut-off wheel of the angle grinder to score a line for the center of the bend. Just needs to be deep enough you can see it when the parts get hot. Mark the one bend, flip the part and mark the other bend. Then heat and bend away. I can get a degree measurement for those angles if you want it.

Looks like 151°. I used a 2" hole saw to cut the ends for the ball to be welded in. Put it in the drill press and squirted used motor oil to lube it. Rather messy, but works.
Thanks for the link to that thread! That is a great idea! I have the turkey fryer so all I would need to do is make the punch to bend it.

I bend thick steel like KennyP but I don't heat the steel. Use a thin cut-off wheel to cut about halfway through the steel. Bend it. Then fill in the resulting "vee" with a few passes from your mig welder. If you want to get fancy, dress it with a grinder and a file. Obviously you cut the groove on the side opposite from the bend direction. It works great and you don't have to work with red hot steel or deal with the spring effect of cold steel.
That's another great idea! I might have to try both ways and see which one works the best!

There are a bunch of kits like this available that can be used in whole or rob parts as needed. There are dozens of different ones.

http://www.agrisupply.com/3-point-linkage-kit/p/101445/

101445.jpg
That is a good price for what you get. The only question I have is is this a Cat 0 or a Cat 1 type?

I bought the balls and top link. Then hauled the tractor to my guy in a welding and machine shop. Little over an hour later put the tractor back on the trailer with a completed 3 point. Paid him $150 and we were both happy. That was for steel, machining the top lift pins, pins, R clips and the whole ball of wax. He did the arm bending on a 200T press, 3" off set. Did one and hit it right the first time. Did the second and it matched up perfectly. Probably took him 5 min to do both arms. Can't mess around doing it myself for that. Have the torch, 2 welders and 20 T press too but would take a couple days to do what he did in an hour.
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I think I want to try and make them just to say I did. :D
 

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Thanks for the link to that thread! That is a great idea! I have the turkey fryer so all I would need to do is make the punch to bend it.

That's another great idea! I might have to try both ways and see which one works the best!

That is a good price for what you get. The only question I have is is this a Cat 0 or a Cat 1 type?

I think I want to try and make them just to say I did. :D
I can appreciate that with no problem. I agree, what cat. are they? Could be kind of light stuff for that price. Chinese for sure.
 

· Mark J.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just spent the last 2 hours searching for Cat 0 vertical lifting arm links. Here is what I found out.

1. Not a lot of businesses carry much of anything in Cat 0.

2. Shipping is a small fortune for the vertical lifting arms that I did find.

3. Extreme motor works seems to have the best price and shipping for the Cub Cat 0 3 point hitch components.

In other words , I just wasted a lot of time for nothing. Kenny said that Extreme had the best prices for what I needed. I just hoped I could find something at a better price point.
 
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I did a lot of research for this stuff. Just hard to find Cat 0.
 
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· Mark J.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's for sure!
 

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You can buy Cat 0 arms at Xtreme Motorworks just in case anyone else is looking. A set of arms runs $90 on their site. you get close to that in just buying the ball sockets and steel. I made a few sets of arms before I found them. Now I don't bother.
 

· Mark J.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Extreme does sell what I need and at a fairly resonable price. I will end up buying the lift links from them but I still want to try and make the arms.
 

· Mark J.
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Just bought the lift arms for my 3 point. Bought them from EMW. I'm going to my friends shop tomorrow to make the lower arms. I'll take pictures throughout the process to show what we did.
 

· Mark J.
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We finished making the lower arms for the 3 point. I went by Pacific Steel and bought two pieces of 2x1/2x24 flat stock for a total of $11.92. I took them over to my friends house because he has a O/A torch and 220 Lincoln welder. The first thing we did was lay out were the bends needed to be. The first bend was at 4" but we put it at 4.5" so we had extra metal for the centering bit on the 2" hole saw. We also used a centering punch to mark were the bend was going to be so that it would be visible when we got it red hot.

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I think the angle of the bend was about 28 degrees. I just used an angle finder tool and laid it on the blue prints that Kenny found for me.

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The second bend was 9" from the first bend.

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Once all the bends were made we used the hole saw to make a half circle for the 2" weld-on balls. The total length from each center point of each weld-on ball was 18".

The pic shows why I added the 1/2 extra to the 4". I didn't have to worry about this at the other end because I had extra metal.

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We finished it off by welding on the balls.

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I finished drilling 2 holes for the lift arms at home and painting them black.

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My friend Gerry is about 73 years old. He's a former navy nuke engineer and continued his civilian life designing nuclear fuel rod containers for nuclear plants. He loves anything with an engine and always wants to make it go faster. He has a 22 foot aluminum jet boat he bought in 1990 that has a 460 Ford. He could not leave that alone and did a whole bunch of machining and go fast parts including Edelbrock heads to make it even faster on the water. He also has a MF12 (see pic 4) with several attachments that he's had sense the 1970's. Without his help it would have taken me a lot longer to complete.

By the way, I was at his house for 5 hours. 3 of them were for working on the arms the rest was Gerry and me talking. If he didn't live 30 minutes away we'd be spending more time working on things and probably getting in trouble as well.
 

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