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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking at installing my hydraulic lift on the 108 and saw the clutch disc needs replaced. I looked in the Service Manual and it didn't really say much about the disc, more on the spring and throwout bearing. Do you have to take the driveshaft out just to change the disc?
 

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No but I would be surprised if the driveshaft didn't need replaced anyway, they are always worn bad where the throw out bearing rides. To get the clutch apart you will need to remove the engine and lock the brake/clutch pedal down, once you do that you need to support the driveshaft with something, I usually use a jack stand. Once it's supported you can drive out the pin in the front plate and it will slide off the shaft along with the clutch disk. Since you will have it that far apart I suggest driving out the second pin and removing the throw out bearing to inspect the driveshaft, if you find you need a new one just send me a pm and I will get you the info for the guy that makes mine, his prices are very reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! It had a new clutch in it when I bought it, but that was about 1990! LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have had good luck with these clutches and the price is very reasonable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232307011369
Think that was what I was looking at! I figured it would be better to get the clutch fixed before I put the hydraulic lift on it. We used the Cub for about 2 years mowing several acres, then it was used very little after that. May need to get the Starter/generator rebuilt before long. I need to get it charging again. Messed with the regulator some, but it's a pain to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ordered the disc this morning. Should be here Sat.
 

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Thanks! It had a new clutch in it when I bought it, but that was about 1990! LOL.
Someone on the forum posted about a heavy duty throwout bearing that would work on these. I think it was a p/n for a later Cub and it had a grease fitting on it. I'm due for that job soon.
 

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I am trying to put this 1200 back together. The original clutch driver plate was tearing out in the center which was typical for those with their rubber mount donuts, when they got bad. My clutch disc was de-laminating and separating so it needed replacement anyhow/

I have a set of solid mounts, left over from a past project that I am gonna use on this machine. As long as the driver disc is shot anyways and needs replaced I am going with a solid one from an older machine. I got one from a guy I know that "pulls" competitively. I got a clutch from one that he is converting that had a brand new disc in it.
Last night I went to change out the disc and pressure plates and as it turns out the pressure plates are bent.... not sure if that is a result of his removal or my install. the inner pressure plate has a U shaped cutout instead of just a hole like the outer one. That U shaped slot was wallowed too, besides being bent.... the shaft looks in good shape and has a greaseable throwout.

I had a thread about getting in too deep on a machine, this is that unit.

The used driver plate that I was gonna use, has a bronze bushing in the middle that is "shot".... I can get that bushing for a whole $5, but since I gotta get another set of pressure plates, I'm gonna replace the drive hub along with it/

I hunted all over here and a CC forum both and couldn't see much in the way of pressure plates available, What I can find for drive hub/plates, wasn't impressive either. I found one on EPay from a place in Iowa that seemed like the best deal going....

I looked at this guy's site and found that he has brand new pressure plates as a set (billet and 1 piece) for a good deal. so I ordered that set and a drive plate from him for what most want for just the drive plate.... I thought about going with a heavier (blue) clutch spring, and a new throwout while I am at it, buuut

I want to get this thing together and get some time onto it and make sure the engine is gonna survive the rebuild process, make sure the trans is good and there are no "bugs" in the wiring that need worked out-- once it is all broken in and I know that everything else is gonna be alright with it then maybe I will look into those other clutch parts.....

I have 3 machines I am trying to get going at once, switch hitting to the next one as I get to a stopping point on which ever one I am working on that second..... and I have 2 others that I really want to get into soon...... right now I want everything functional and debugged, and then I will go thru and decide which one(s) to keep and which will go down the road....once everything works on each as it should.

on the throwout bearing there is ALOT available from mild to wild thanks to the puller crowd.
 

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Someone on the forum posted about a heavy duty throwout bearing that would work on these. I think it was a p/n for a later Cub and it had a grease fitting on it. I'm due for that job soon.
The throw out bearing you speak of looks like the one in the pic, I install them in all my Cubs. As you can see it's longer in the rear so what you have to do is measure the added length and drill a new hole for the pin that the spring rest against that much further back the driveshaft. This makes room for the longer bearing while keeping the same spring tension. To avoid having an extra hole in the shaft to weaken it I have the guy that makes my shafts skip that hole and I drill it myself.
 

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The throw out bearing you speak of looks like the one in the pic, I install them in all my Cubs. As you can see it's longer in the rear so what you have to do is measure the added length and drill a new hole for the pin that the spring rest against that much further back the driveshaft. This makes room for the longer bearing while keeping the same spring tension. To avoid having an extra hole in the shaft to weaken it I have the guy that makes my shafts skip that hole and I drill it myself.
So do you use a stock clutch disk and spring with that setup?
 

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Mark J.
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The throw out bearing you speak of looks like the one in the pic, I install them in all my Cubs. As you can see it's longer in the rear so what you have to do is measure the added length and drill a new hole for the pin that the spring rest against that much further back the driveshaft. This makes room for the longer bearing while keeping the same spring tension. To avoid having an extra hole in the shaft to weaken it I have the guy that makes my shafts skip that hole and I drill it myself.
Thanks for the information on the upgrade!

What is the part number for the throughout bearing and where do you buy them from?
 

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Thanks for the information on the upgrade!
What is the part number for the throughout bearing and where do you buy them from?
The part number is 703-0600. The great thing is that the bearing is replaceable, the bearing can be pressed off the housing and a new bearing installed and I can get bearings at a local place for about $8. Another advantage this mod has is that since it's so long it won't ride crooked and chew up the driveshaft which is a common issue with the stock bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The disc should be here today! I have a mower I am working on for a neighbor, parts for it should be here today and I can get it out of the way to work on the Cub. I'm going to take the deck lift off and pretty it up a bit while I'm working on it. I have an idea about making a grader blade for under there once the hydraulics are on and working.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the clutch and the other parts just now showed up. So I brought the Cub over and pulled the engine mount bolts. Taking the grille out helped move it forward enough to take it apart. But first, I removed the QA lift. This needs some TLC and makeup.

Wood Gas Metal Machine Building material
Wood Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior Bumper


Got the plate out without too much effort.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Wood Gas Machine
Bicycle part Rim Helmet Composite material Automotive wheel system


Bicycle part Rim Gas Font Circle


Went back together rather easily except for the front engine mount bolts! Why they put them above the front axle is beyond me! Anywho, works very good! Gonna need an .875" X .625" bushing before long.
 

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I have seen them bushings at Cub Cadet Classics (out of Ohio) for like $5... that guy charges $10 shipping no matter how much (or little) you buy from him. stock up on goodies and $10 becomes really reasonable.

I would check out a bearing supply house, like Motion Industries or even Mc Master Carr.... I always find "something else" that I need from them!! Every time I order from Mc Master, I ALWAYS have it the very next day! they have yet to fail me on that though I guess the closest branch is only like an hour from here though I have never been there.
 

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the place I got my pressure plates and drive hub from is called Zach Kerber Machine. they are out of Iowa/ I think far west end.

they were the only place I could find the pressure plates and he was 1/2 the price on the drive hub.... the pressure plates are solid 1 piece billet... overkill I know but for the price.... and not to have wallowed out grooves for the spiral pins having new parts, helps too.... should be here tomorrow, USPS tracking says they are at my "hub" post office right now.

on the driveshaft I mic'd it and had no wear where the shaft penetrates that bushing that you mention that you need, I never pulled the "back" spiral pin to check for shaft wear there, honestly just didn't think about it. again... trying to get it together and running and "broke in" for now and will tweak from there as needed.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll do some snooping around for that bushing.
 

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