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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got this a few miles away, the guys was asking $1000 and I offered him $75 and he countered with $100. Other than a Bolens ride a matic that I am restoring I am a total noob at these garden tractors.

Where can I find the serial tag?

It doesn't have a key - what do I need to do to start it? It needs a battery so I thought of just jumping from my car - would that work or do I need a battery in it to run?

Where can I find the manual?

Thanks!
 

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The serial tag should be on the rear end, lower left. Might be behind a hitch part. I would stick some kind of battery in there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you very much! I picked it up last night and am quite pleased. Good to know on what those are selling for too. I thought the belt was missing to but it has just been taken off the pulley. I hope to get a battery semi soon and try to fire it up.

I haven't pushed a hydro before but when I moved it it was a little hard to move and I could heard a slight "hum" from the tranny like something was moving in there. Is that normal? I dropped the release lever but wasn't sure if I should have done something else to move it.

It needs a battery hooked to the positive terminal of the coil to run.Looks like it's missing the starter belt.

You better get this tractor.The narrow frame headlight panels are selling for more than $100.
 

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Hydro leaver might need adjusted.Sounds like it wasn't in neutral.Might want to pull the fender pan and look at the relief valves on the top of the pump.There is a thin metal tab on the end of the release leaver.They snap off on alot of the old cubs.

Later models were equipped with automatic relief valves.But they are all a bit hard to push unless the pump is worn.Sounds like you got a good one.Looks pretty clean other than the oil and dirt around the the breather on the carb side.Could just be a leaking breather seal or it could be blow-by.Hope she runs as good for you.
 

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There should be a hydro release lever on the right side of the tunnel to make pushing the tractor much easier. Remember DO NOT pull or push these tractors fast or any real distance.

The 125 is a real nice narrow frame tractor, will serve you well.

Nice set of wheel weights and optional lights. Does it still have the taillight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sadly no tail light. I hope the transmission is good. When I move the release lever it seems like it doesn't do anything, it just moves like a loose lever - is that normal?

I ordered a key and will get a battery next week and see what I can do with getting it running. Watch for more questions then!
 

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Sadly no tail light. I hope the transmission is good. When I move the release lever it seems like it doesn't do anything, it just moves like a loose lever - is that normal?

I ordered a key and will get a battery next week and see what I can do with getting it running. Watch for more questions then!
That lever has a little tin "paddle" on it on the inside of the tunnel. It just pushes down on the top of the relief valves and pushes in a pin on each one to release it for pushing. When the paddle hits the valves the release lever should stop. As far as pushing, like has been said already those tractors do not push easy even with the release lever pushed. My 107 is a bear to push most of the time and it is basically the same as your 125. Different Hp and hood and fenders but the same otherwise under the skin.

Here is what it looks like under the tunnel cover. The paddle is #8 in the breakdown with the lever being #9

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/125-cub-cadet-garden-tractor/transmission-case-differential-hydro-drive-rel-parts/
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That lever has a little tin "paddle" on it on the inside of the tunnel. It just pushes down on the top of the relief valves and pushes in a pin on each one to release it for pushing. When the paddle hits the valves the release lever should stop. As far as pushing, like has been said already those tractors do not push easy even with the release lever pushed. My 107 is a bear to push most of the time and it is basically the same as your 125. Different Hp and hood and fenders but the same otherwise under the skin.

Here is what it looks like under the tunnel cover. The paddle is #8 in the breakdown with the lever being #9

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/125-cub-cadet-garden-tractor/transmission-case-differential-hydro-drive-rel-parts/
Thank you! When I push the lever down it feels that it just hits the valves - should I push harder? There is not fridge ion or resistance when I push down. I feel that either the valves are already stuck down or I can't push them any further.
 

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Should there be any resistance on the FNR lever if it is not running? I plan to get a battery and try to get it going this week. Please watch for questions as I am sure I will have some.
Yes, it stays in place by a friction washer down in the steering tower. It has a nut on it that can be loosened or tightened to adjust what the tension is on it.
 

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Thank you! When I push the lever down it feels that it just hits the valves - should I push harder? There is not fridge ion or resistance when I push down. I feel that either the valves are already stuck down or I can't push them any further.
I wouldn't force anything. It should not push down real hard to activate them. You should feel when the flapper hits and then it should move a little bit more after that and stop. About the only way to know if they're moving is to look at them when you move the lever.
 

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I wouldn't force anything. It should not push down real hard to activate them. You should feel when the flapper hits and then it should move a little bit more after that and stop. About the only way to know if they're moving is to look at them when you move the lever.
Thank you. Do the valves go up only when the engine is running and pumping?

Also here is a pic of the wiring - is the red wire on the left my negative? And the white going into the harness the positive? I believe it is according to the diagrams but don't wanna try it the wrong way.
 

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Thank you. Can do the calves go up only when the engine is running and pumping?

Also here is a pic of the wiring - is the red wire on the left my negative? And the white going into the harness the positive? I believe it is according to the diagrams but don't wanna try it the wrong way.
Sometimes the valves will stay stuck down until the engine is started and the pressure pops them back up.

As for the cables, the red is the positive and the white is the negative. If you follow the white down to the engine it should have a large ring terminal attached to the rear bolt on the cast generator mounting bracket. From there it goes up the front side of the harness and should have a smaller ring terminal that is grounded under the voltage regulator bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I connected it and turned the key and nothing. When I push in on the break is is clickety almost like notches - not smooth.

When I push the lighter button the starter spins and I get puffs of air from the exhaust. Any initial thoughts on nothing when I turn the key or what I should do?
 

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