I tried both sides of the coil and nothing. When I push the button the engine cranks. I've tried multiple combos of pushing the button and turning the key and nothing different. Just engine cranking, no spark.

Well with the key on and a test light on the coil wire from the switch with no light you got no juice. So at this point you have a bad switch or a broken or bad wire from the switch to the coil. What I would do to see if you can get any fire is to run a jumper wire from the battery to the switch side of the coil and then see if you get spark. You should at that point if the feed to the coil is the only problem. If that works and you get it to fire and there is no other foreseeable problems then at that point I would figure out if the switch is bad or not and get a new one if it is and also get a new wiring harness as well.

 

I think I have sad news, when I took the plug out today and looked into the cylinder the piston didn't move at all when I powered the starter. Does it have any hope other than a rebuild?

I am thinking of selling it anyhow since I found a 1964 JD 110 that I've been wanting and got it so the Cub will definitely go to the back burner.

Also, how much would these wheel weights be worth? I was going to sell them anyhow but now that the engine needs more help than I expected I'd rather sell them.

 

Not a good sign when the piston doesn't move! Nice weights!

 

Turn the engine over by hand and see if the piston moves, if it doesn't you can get your money back and then some by parting it out. Sounds like you may have the green fever anyway.

 

Well I ended up selling it and made $200 so not a bad deal and I would say I do have a bit of green fever lol. The 110 runs nice and being new at this that will help me a lot. Thanks for all the replies and help!

 

I'm back in the 125 game!

I found another 125 for a good price and in much better condition. It runs great and came with a mower deck. I wasnt gonna get it but having the mow deck and being how nice it was I couldn't pass it up. It wasn't used much and was stored in a shed so minimal rust. I can see how these things just "follow you" home. Anyway I want to push snow with this one so am a little bummed I sold the other one as I could've used the wheel weights and even for parts but oh well.

The steering needs attention - should I just weld this back on or better to get a new piece? It also needs a grill and I'd love headlights (I really am kicking myself for selling the other one for the lights and weights).

Since this one is running do you recommend any maintenance off the bat? Change motor and transmission fluids?

 

Well that plate is NLA so you several options.

1. Ditch those parts and get good used ones.

2. Cut the weld on that bolt head and then get yourself a new grade 5 bolt with the same un-threaded shank length and weld it in in place of that one. Then cut the threads off to make them the same length as the factory one.

Either way get rid of that bolt that was being used as a cam follower stud and replace it with the correct tapered one. It is still available but REALLY pricey.

3. Replace the whole steering column with a different one. There's one on epay right now listed for a 106 with a decent price. It would be the exact same one you need.

As for maintenance, pull the rear cover off the transmission and drain the fluid out of it and get the front end up on blocks or something and rinse the case out to remove all the junk in the bottom. Get a new OEM hydrostatic filter (MTD# 923-3014) on it, a new rear cover gasket and refill with CaseIH Hytran. The engine couldn't hurt to have a fresh oil change. Some good Sae 30 and it should be good. Maybe check the spark plug, air filter and pull the sediment bowl off the fuel tank and clean it out as well.

Good luck, it looks pretty good.

 

From talking with the owner he replaced the cam follower with the bolt but it never lined up so he left it. Not sure what cause the need to replace it in the first place.

I think I'll pull the whole steering setup out and inspect everything and clean it up while I'm at it.

I'm leaning toward option number 2. Any special suggestions on cutting that weld? And just to make sure all I need it the number 5 bolt and a cam follower?

 

From talking with the owner he replaced the cam follower with the bolt but it never lined up so he left it. Not sure what cause the need to replace it in the first place.

I think I'll pull the whole steering setup out and inspect everything and clean it up while I'm at it.

I'm leaning toward option number 2. Any special suggestions on cutting that weld? And just to make sure all I need it the number 5 bolt and a cam follower?

A good cut off wheel followed by a grinding wheel should take that bolt off of there. Just be cautious that you dont take material out of the plate as that could make the new bolt sit in there crooked. A grade 5 bolt the right size ( I believe that it is fine thread too) and the cam follower stud and its lock nut should be the only parts needed.

 

Ive sen those cam followers on Feebay, price varies widely.

 

Do any of you know the length of that grade 5 bolt or the section without threads? I don't have it and want to stop by the hardware store on the way home

 

Do any of your know the correct rear cover gasket number or where to find it?

 

Do any of your know the correct rear cover gasket number or where to find it?

It's in the manual here! Part # IH-350837-R2

 

It's in the manual here! Part # IH-350837-R2

Thanks I had the other 125 manuals but couldn't find the parts one

 

Okay I cut the old bolt out, it was pretty bad. It looked like it had been poorly welded a few times before but I got the plate pretty straight and cut a new grade 5 bolt down and will weld tomorrow. Do I need to run a bead around the whole thing or will 3 spot welds do? I don't want to risk warping or thinning the plate any more.

Also I am missing the metal gasket retainer and gasket thing (sorry for lack of knowing what they are) can I get them for a decent price somewhere or an alternative?

 

What kind of grease is best for lubing the steering box? I cleaned it all up and should have the last few parts soon.

Also, the tank was leaking so I drained it and took it off. The petcock area had had some solder repair to it and it looked like it was just leaking through the threads. Would Teflon tape work to seal the threads? I plan to dry the exterior and fill it up to see exactly where the leak is.

 

Well I wrapped the petcock with Teflon and put a little gas in and left it while at work and it leaked. I may just go with a plastic tank for now to get me by.

When I got the 125 the steering was taken apart. I got it back together but am wondering how tight/loose do I want the cam follower? Should there be much friction against the worm gear?

 

I got the steering installed, new tank and fuel line with filter and shutoff, new air filter. I need to get a new ignition as I currently just use a flathead screwdriver and the switch moves in the hole so I have to reach behind and hold it. Anyway, I gave it my first drive tonight and loved it, snow and cold and all! The neighbors may not have since it was like 11:00. I was surprised at how little traction it had without weights or chains.

 

Looking good. Get some weights and chains on there and it will push snow with ease. Without chains or weights on turf tires they are pretty helpless in snow.

 

Thanks. I changed the oil today and afterward it revved higher than before when I throttle up. Is that normal? It wasn't bad just had noticeably more power than before.