I'll keep an eye on your progress , Al
David Bradley Project!
I have been restoring a David Bradley walk-behind, and it has been a fun project. I have taken it a step further, and created a DIY show, The American Garage- and the first project is to restore the DB. Photo shoots have slowed down the progress on the actual restoration, because I have to wait on some tasks to do in front of the camera. But, we are having a ball doing it, and would love to share it with you. You can find it on the web at www.theamericangarage.net . We will be releasing the first episode hopefully very soon- check it out and let me know what you think. Here is a photo of all the parts after sandblasting and priming-
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Stephen
Stephen
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went and looked at your site. Didnt see anything in the way of a video other than an ad. You do relize that there are still a large number of guys that dont text, twitter, tweet or do the facebook thing?
That would be me:bigrofl:You do relize that there are still a large number of guys that dont text, twitter, tweet or do the facebook thing?
Great progress on the restoration! Should come out real nice! I've moved this to the "Walk Behind" forum.
David Bradley walk behinds are great beginner restoration projects, as I did one when I was 16 yrs old. The fun was not having all the original parts, but tracking them down. I needed an AU7 Continental engine, but ended up settling for a later model AU7B. However, I have strayed heavily from DB's in the last 5 years, but first tractor restorations are never forgotten, just scratched, oops LOL. And funny thing is this past year at a tractor show I stumbled upon a complete Continental engine with the DB style pulley on it. Upon further inspection I decided that it had to come home with me because it was a Continental AU7, perfect for a completed restoration, if and when I decide to put it on my first (only) DB restoration project. It's funny how stuff works out sometimes. Good luck on your restoration.
Of course! And I am glad that you guys that are busy in your garages and barns and fields are out there, and that you might have some good comments and insights. But, the main thrust is to get the Facebookers and Tweeters to get off their chairs and go build something. Those are the people I want to inspire. You are already inspired, and doing stuff. Bravo! But, I will use the social media to get others involved that are busy holding chairs down. And yes- we only have the commercial up right now. The first episode is due to launch December 1- and you are the first to hear it because the press release is not out yet. We need an audience to be there when we launch- kinda like movie previews? So, hold tight and we will have the first one up 12/1. We are still discussing the frequency of releases, but should have that ironed out by launch date. Okay, now I gotta get up and do something in the garage before this chair starts to infect me.....Lauber1 said:went and looked at your site. Didnt see anything in the way of a video other than an ad. You do relize that there are still a large number of guys that dont text, twitter, tweet or do the facebook thing?
SD
I dont beleive that we will see this gentleman here again, as he hasnt been here since Oct/11. In my opinon they looking to sell stuff to people more than doing projects. I have watched the four installments and was disapointed that they didnt know much about the tractor(s). I also have some problems with them cruising the net and using pictures of other peoples tractors, some of which are good friends of mine, as ad's for the project.
Not saying that a good DB restoring how to is not needed, but it may be better to have people involved that know something more about the tractors and the work needing to be done. I also noted that there were a least two gas cans sitting 5 or so feet away, while the "Pro" welder worked. I think a little more on safty needs to be addressed.
I'll continue to watch the series, if we get any more, and hopefully it will improve. I take my GT hobby pretty serious, and would like to see it promoted in the same way.
And Steve, if you reappear, dont be shy, plenty of folks here to help you out with problems and where to get parts for DB tractors.
Not saying that a good DB restoring how to is not needed, but it may be better to have people involved that know something more about the tractors and the work needing to be done. I also noted that there were a least two gas cans sitting 5 or so feet away, while the "Pro" welder worked. I think a little more on safty needs to be addressed.
I'll continue to watch the series, if we get any more, and hopefully it will improve. I take my GT hobby pretty serious, and would like to see it promoted in the same way.
And Steve, if you reappear, dont be shy, plenty of folks here to help you out with problems and where to get parts for DB tractors.
Well i still thought he did a GREAT job.Those videos aren't easy to do.
One thing I noticed is that he never pulled the hubs and checked the rachets. He also says its a 1952 model, but it has the spring clutch, and the motor mount is missing the metal strap were the drawbar goes. It also appeared in his takedown video, that the wheels were held on with nuts and bolts. All of these indicate to me it is a 917.5751 made between 1946-1949.
But in a later video, the hubs have studs and nuts, and the engine shroud is from a later model. In the takedown video the shroud was missing. I think he has at least 2 different tractors that he is working on.
But in a later video, the hubs have studs and nuts, and the engine shroud is from a later model. In the takedown video the shroud was missing. I think he has at least 2 different tractors that he is working on.
yes if you go back though the posts here you will find where there are 2 tractors, one being a 561 and the other being the 51 model. Not clear if he relizes that alot of the parts dont cross between the two. In the vid it appears that some pictures are of them tearing down one model, then the next are of another model.
For sure i wouldnt have tried to restore a tractor with a broken rear eye, to easy to come by good tractors. I sometime go though the parts to as many as 3 units so that i can have the perfect pieces, as i only want do this once. Now i relize that if you dont have 3 other tractors, then you might be somewhat limited, but still they made 1000's of them, most are still out there, and around this area there pretty cheap, compared to other makes.
For sure i wouldnt have tried to restore a tractor with a broken rear eye, to easy to come by good tractors. I sometime go though the parts to as many as 3 units so that i can have the perfect pieces, as i only want do this once. Now i relize that if you dont have 3 other tractors, then you might be somewhat limited, but still they made 1000's of them, most are still out there, and around this area there pretty cheap, compared to other makes.
I also noticed my 57560 has a small slot in the frame under the clutch that my 5756 doesn't have, and these are just one number apart.
got a picture of that slot????
I can take one. It's just like the one for throttle cable. I know some of the later models have it, but I didn't think this model was supposed to have one. I think it's for the AU8 motor that was for the 57561.
im thinking i know the slot your speaking of but wanted to confirm be photo. Both the 560 and 561 had the same handel bar setup, so it would have been easy for them to mix some up when making the bundle. The only reason for this slot would be to get the cable down to the engine. The briggs powered units cable came and went to a differnt area of the engine than the cont one did.
yes and if yours was a 561 the cable would come out this hole and up to the carb. Its hard to get the cable to come up out of there.
I do like the book says, I use a small hook and pull the cable though the hole.
Okay Guys-
My DB project is finally nearing completion- check out the videos at www.theamericangarage.net
I have a couple of questions, maybe you can help. First, the carburetor on my Briggs seems to be leaking- but let me explain: The governor linkage is disconnected (I will get to that in a second), and I am test running it. I pull the chord and it starts right up. Then, it won't get to full speed and then it dies. When it dies, gas drips out of the intake (the filter and pipe are removed) for a couple seconds. So, I am lead to believe that it is running too rich, and flooding out the longer it runs. I did get it to run about 30 seconds one time, but it died and I monkeyed with it only to discover that it was out of gas, but I messed up my needle valve settings by that time. My guess is that the float and float valve are working fine, because it would leak all the time if that was not doing its job. How do I set the 2 needle valves? Am I flooding it? It does start pretty easily, but won't stay running.
Now, as to why I have the governor unhooked- well truth be told, I swapped the engine to a newer model 3HP Briggs & Stratton, and I put the old carburetor on it. The gas tank would not fit under the hood, plus it was too small. The holes for the intake were 90 degrees off, so I made an adaptor- that went well. This way I get the look of the old intake and carb and the adjustments that the newer one does not have. So, now I am going to have to fabricate a new governor linkage. I need a simple diagram of what to hook to what. This engine has a pneumatic governor with the wind vane by the flywheel. Can someone help me with a simple diagram?
My DB project is finally nearing completion- check out the videos at www.theamericangarage.net
I have a couple of questions, maybe you can help. First, the carburetor on my Briggs seems to be leaking- but let me explain: The governor linkage is disconnected (I will get to that in a second), and I am test running it. I pull the chord and it starts right up. Then, it won't get to full speed and then it dies. When it dies, gas drips out of the intake (the filter and pipe are removed) for a couple seconds. So, I am lead to believe that it is running too rich, and flooding out the longer it runs. I did get it to run about 30 seconds one time, but it died and I monkeyed with it only to discover that it was out of gas, but I messed up my needle valve settings by that time. My guess is that the float and float valve are working fine, because it would leak all the time if that was not doing its job. How do I set the 2 needle valves? Am I flooding it? It does start pretty easily, but won't stay running.
Now, as to why I have the governor unhooked- well truth be told, I swapped the engine to a newer model 3HP Briggs & Stratton, and I put the old carburetor on it. The gas tank would not fit under the hood, plus it was too small. The holes for the intake were 90 degrees off, so I made an adaptor- that went well. This way I get the look of the old intake and carb and the adjustments that the newer one does not have. So, now I am going to have to fabricate a new governor linkage. I need a simple diagram of what to hook to what. This engine has a pneumatic governor with the wind vane by the flywheel. Can someone help me with a simple diagram?
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