Diesel or Gas?

1133 Views 26 Replies 12 Participants Last post by mtoney, 14 d ago

Frugal_Tinkerer

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

So, I've done some looking around for an engine for a possible engine swap this summer. I'm looking to put a bigger engine in like a 129 or something similar. If I can get one with a mechanically locked up engine so I can just drop in another engine. I had two main ideas for the engines. A horizontal shaft B&S 402707 (or similar engine) or a Yanmar 2V-78 (or similar engine). What do you think? I know half the battle is even finding one of these engines, but that aside what would be a better swap? I know it seems outlandish to swap a biggity riggity diesel into a GT that looks like it sat in a scrap heap for 12 years, but I feel like it would almost make some sense. I dunno, I just want the opinion of someone other than my optimistic self.

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Georgia317

· #21 · 2 mo ago

FrankIII said:
I've never had a diesel, but I'll be honest, that would sure be an interesting swap. Will a Briggs opposed fit in between the frame rails of a 129?

If I were you, I might keep an eye out for an existing diesel GT. I know Cub Cadet and JD made them. Is that Yanmar engine you pictured vertical shaft? I see something sticking out the underside.

EDIT: I think a repower in an old Cub is a great idea. I know everybody is like "The Kohler K-series is the best engine ever!" but I can't see why.

Well, you certainly never visit the John Deere sites. The mention of a Kohler K series will bring a chain of negative responses pages long. Especially the series one version. I personally have no issues with them other than they being very old technology. Same with the Onans we deal with and all others of that era for that matter.

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FrankIII

· #22 · 2 mo ago

Georgia317 said:
Well, you certainly never visit the John Deere sites. The mention of a Kohler K series will bring a chain of negative responses pages long. Especially the series one version. I personally have no issues with them other than they being very old technology. Same with the Onans we deal with and all others of that era for that matter.

I was not talking about the KT twins. And I know that with any engine series, sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you get a bad one.

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Frugal_Tinkerer

Discussion Starter · #23 · 2 mo ago

boatmoter said:
isn't there some type of additive you can use to stop the fuel from going bad? Im sure if you had a little summer fuel in the tank you could drive until it needed a refill

It's called either used 5w-20 or generic ATF. I mean you could buy the name brand stuff but all it needs is some oily mixture to help keep it ripe.

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Ambush

· #24 · 2 mo ago

Frugal_Tinkerer said:
It's called either used 5w-20 or generic ATF. I mean you could buy the name brand stuff but all it needs is some oily mixture to help keep it ripe.

I live in northern BC, the land of cold and diesels. We switch to winter diesel around October for industrial and personal vehicles. In a pinch, guys will add some kerosene. You want to keep the diesel from gelling. Not sure what adding oil or atf would accomplish?

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Frugal_Tinkerer

Discussion Starter · #25 · 2 mo ago

Ambush said:
I live in northern BC, the land of cold and diesels. We switch to winter diesel around October for industrial and personal vehicles. In a pinch, guys will add some kerosene. You want to keep the diesel from gelling. Not sure what adding oil or atf would accomplish?

Oil and ATF don't gel or at least not at the same temp as diesel. It's also good to lube up the older fuel pumps from the inside, because they were designed for high sulfur diesel, which has a much higher lubricating quality. It's also just a good idea to add ATF to any type of fuel, as it lubes, cleans, and seals the inside of fuel system components. I've actually cured a self-propelled mower that had E85 run through it and been parked with ATF. It truly works magic, which is why it's the no. 1 ingredient in Marvel Mystery Oil.

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mtoney

· #26 · 14 d ago

Another option for a small liquid cooled diesel is one of the older Kubota G3200/G4200 tractors. Its common the deck is rusted beyond repair and the rear 3pt hitch is one of the rarest parts on them to find. But the little 2 cylinder diesel is a gem and fits well into the narrow frame cubs. You can salvage the whole thing out of the other tractor, radiator and all. The hardest part is setting the front PTO back up to be functional and line up properly to the mule drive. I have also put an air cooled diesel into a Wheelhorse, they are a much easier repower being a "side winder" belt drive vs a shaft drive in a cub. A wide frame or 82 series is the easiest to do custom repowers as there is so much more room to work with. And of coarse, the 82 series were the first model series to have a factory diesel, the 782D/882 using a 15hp Kubota D600 three cylinder diesel. These diesels shake, so you Must use rubber engine mounts to keep it from shaking and cracking frames or the dash console. Just look at the dash console on a 149 or 169 to see the effects of the shaking. Hence the quiet line that followed with an attempt to isolate the engine vibration from the tractor/operator. Good luck with the swap! I have a 782d if you need pics for ideas on how to mount things.

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mtoney

· #27 · 14 d ago

Once you mow with a diesel powered GT, you wont want to go back to a gasser. They sip fuel compared to a gasser that guzzles it every time you mow the yard. For factory built diesels, you have Cub Cadet 782d, 882, 1512, 1752. John Deere 330, 332, 430, 455. Ford LGT 14d, Kubota G3200, 4200, 5200, 6200, 1800, 1900, 1900aws. Simplicity 7790/Allis Chalmers 920. There are a few more but those are the easiest ones to find. The Kubota and Ford are the hardest to find the rear 3pt hitch and implements for, along with mower decks being the worst for rust issue. The Cubs, Deeres and Simplicity/Allis are the easiest to find parts, attachments and so forth. Cub used Kubota diesels, Deere used Yanmar and Simplicity/Allis used an air cooled Lombardini 2 cylinder.

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