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After changing out my fluids, and getting this old girl awake again she started leaving good size spots on the floor, so I decided to fix it and document it along the way. No need to remove axe, or tires. Had I not taken photos, I would have had this completed in 30 minutes.

Let's start out with the things you will need.
1. a clean catch container,unless your fluid needs replacing
2. An 1 1/4" wrench
3. A screwdriver or punch for driving cotter pins out
4. Hammer
5. Pocket knife or pick of some sort to get the seals off
6. (2) 7/16 x 5/8 O-rings, China freight, or any hardware store
7. Some clean rags
8. Adequate lighting
9. Brake or carb cleaner (optional)

After getting everything you need, crawl under the tractor with some rags, maybe a screwdiver too and start cleaning everything off. Scrape off big chunks with the screwdriver, and use spray cleaner as needed. Don't forget to wipe off the top of the nut, and linkage too!!

Next, remove the cotter pins from both ends of position rod, and remove rod.
Carefully place catch container under rear axle.
Now use your 1 1/4" wrench to break nut loose. Unscrew nut slowly as fluid will start to ooze out. (Clocking nut, and pin is non essential as the other side of pin is universal in direction with bull gear). Now get ready to re-position catch container once nut is totally loose as the oil can come out quite rapidly.
Once nut, and pin are removed, gently separate pin from nut by gently pushing pin through nut from exterior side to interior side of nut. Take a small knife and gently pry up seal closest to interior side, and roll off. Take new seal, coat with oil, and gently roll on. Repeat same step with other seal. (in this order, new, and old seals will roll over other seal) Now coat inside of nut with light film of oil as well as the new seals on pin. Be sure to inspect for any dirt or debris, or damaged parts. Repair or replace as needed.

Finally we can re-assemble.
First, push pin into nut, then gently screw nut in hand tight only!!!!
Next attach short end of rod into its correct location first, then longer part of the rod into pawl pin. Then re-install any washers, and both cotter pins.
Next snug the 1 1/4" nut, and clean surrounding area.
Finally, refill fluid to full mark, replace fill cap, and run engine for 5-10 minutes while checking for leaks. Turn off engine, and re-check fluid level, and add as needed.

Cheers
 

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That quad ring isn't as important to me as is the overall diameter of any particular seal. Plus the materials used today are far superior compared to 40 some years ago.

Correct no sealing washer, it wasn't there lol . The nut surface is machined, but I don't recall looking at the housing, so can't say for sure on that. I did not see any problems there, however, not to say there won't ever be, but if it gives troubles down the road, I can toss a washer in it. It didn't take that long to fix besides, it didn't leak there before I took it apart!!
 

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Thanks had you not pointed that out, I would have missed the fact it was missing. Oh well, it's back to the way I got!:)
Too busy trying to get it done, clean my hands, take a pictures so on and so forth :)
 

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May take a look at this thread on the Bolens forum here: "LF Parking Pawl Leak DIY" by accidentalchild some debate on use of a o-ring over the oem " quad ring". Also didn't see the sealing washer Part # 1719 869 on your assembly
here is the link that WrenchinOnIt was referring to: http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/45766-lf-parking-pawl-leak-diy/

I notice that the tip on your parking pawl is totally worn away. If you look in the above link post #3 http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/45766-lf-parking-pawl-leak-diy/?p=580758 you'll notice there is a tip at the end of parking pawl. In his third picture you'll see where it engages in the bull gear. I'm guessing your tractors park feature either doesn't engage or only very slightly.

Some have welded on the end to build it up and grind it back down. Or you can contact user ClassicBolens and he can get you a new parking pawl. He also has the seals and missing washer for the threaded nut.

You took the time to pull it all apart, might as well (re)do it right.
 

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If you need a new parking pawl let me know,I have 1 brand new Factory one left
here is the link that WrenchinOnIt was referring to: http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/45766-lf-parking-pawl-leak-diy/

I notice that the tip on your parking pawl is totally worn away. If you look in the above link post #3 http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/45766-lf-parking-pawl-leak-diy/?p=580758 you'll notice there is a tip at the end of parking pawl. In his third picture you'll see where it engages in the bull gear. I'm guessing your tractors park feature either doesn't engage or only very slightly.

Some have welded on the end to build it up and grind it back down. Or you can contact user ClassicBolens and he can get you a new parking pawl. He also has the seals and missing washer for the threaded nut.

You took the time to pull it all apart, might as well (re)do it right.
Thank you, yep will do. Never had a 12 completely apart, so I had no idea. Thank you for pointing this out! My concern at the time was my garage floor.
 

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If you need a new parking pawl let me know,I have 1 brand new Factory one left
Thank you, yes, I am interested. Please pm me with the info on it, and ill reply tomorrow. I had a day that sucked, and just don't really want to deal with it today. (lazy people at work, and a blind boss sux)

Good news is garage floor is dry, and the bottom is still clean since working on it, so that's a plus!! .. Lol
 
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You can just put two o rings in it I have done it for years and none of mine have left a drop after I resealed them. The parking pawl are simple to fix Just tig or mig weld a bead on the tip of it and grind the point back on it. I have done it many times over the years.
 
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You can just put two o rings in it I have done it for years and none of mine have left a drop after I resealed them. The parking pawl are simple to fix Just tig or mig weld a bead on the tip of it and grind the point back on it. I have done it many times over the years.
Thank you for the advice! :)

I may or may not got that route depends on what the cost of the new one is? I guess I may as well get a new sealing washer as well, so looks like I'll be pulling apart to fix it correctly. :)
 

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New one should be coming hopefully in a couple of days once I seal the deal with BlackjackJake, and I'll have most the parts to "FIX" this thing correctly minus the quad washer. Then I plan to take measurements of the new part, and ill weld up the old one for a spare.

Does anyone have the dimensions of the washer that goes behind the nut, and the material it's made from ie; steel, plastic, neoprene, concrete, lead, unobtainium..lol Thank you!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You know even though this is a little off topic, I must say I am very appreciative of all the help I have gotten on this! Suggestions, things I've missed, part's, and knowledge from you folks has been a big help, and I thank each, and every one of you!! The 1455 thanks you too;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Feel free to PM me if you need the quad ring and sealing washer. I have them both available. The sealing washer is steel.
Thank you for the offer;)
BlackjackJake is sending me the parts I need in order to get the job done. Cheers
 

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Got some presents in the mail today, and I will put them in sometime in the morning. Yes, I'll include pics lol, so be on the lookout!!! :)
 

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I just got done redoing the parking pawl with the correct parts installed. This time, even with pictures it only took 20 minutes. I have included some side by side pics as well as some pics of the pawl size incase your like me, and have an extra one to weld up.
The first picture is the old one with washer installed.

This should hopefully once and for all quash any confusion, keep my garage dry, and maybe be of some help to future Bolens folks looking to take on this entry level endeavor.

Even though I have done this once already, I would again like to thank everyone for their support, interest, kindness, and patience with this rather long thread, but again maybe someday someone may use the info posted here for their project!!

Thanks again BlackJackJake for the parts, works great, went together easy as pie, and should now outlast me!!! Cheers:)
 

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