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Been busy the last couple of weeks expanding my heated working area. I decided to insulate and put a wood stove into my garage.My shop and garage are under the same roof.so really only had to do 3 walls. Due to insurance being sticky with wood stoves I had to drill the floor and install some bumper pipes in front of the stove.I finally finished the drywall today.The lower 4 feet is aspenite and the rest is all drywall. I've installed a contruction heater by the electrical panel to beable to heat the garage while I'am waiting for the OK from the insurance company to beable to use my wood stove. I had to take a bunch of pics and measurements and take them into the insurance company this morning., so just waiting on the OK from them. Now I can start taping and mudding the drywall.I would like to get it done plus the painting before it gets to cold. Sure will be nicer having more room to work on our vehicles and other stuff now without having to move stuff around all the time in and out of my small shop. This is my progress in the last couple weeks.
 

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Insurance companies can be a real PITA to work with on wood stoves. Seems they don't want to come out and tell you exactly what they want or require. Will give you some guide lines, then when you follow them they decide they want something else done. Propane prices are way down in this area so were are not going to burn much wood this winter in the fireplace. Will let the corn/pellet stove do most of the heating at about $3 a day. Your set up looks real good, concrete floor under and around the stove, strong protectors in front, plenty of wall clearance, insulated flue through the roof. Only question I would have is why the off set in the flue inside? Will have to take the flue apart to clean the lower portion. With wood you know that will have to be done every year. Just thinking from experience.
 
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Wow that does look great, With 10' walls you can have a lot of shelf space . And not putting drywall at the bottom will save from the ding and holes. the "aspenite" board, in my part of the world we call it wafer board. or ox board and that all its good for.But i can't believe you core drill the holes with a hand held drill . you did a great job , now in joy your new space. and don't be like me and let the wife in there "saying with all this space i can put this and this in there"

Patrick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How large was the original shop area?
Half is 10 x 24 a other half is 13 x 24

Only question I would have is why the off set in the flue inside? Will have to take the flue apart to clean the lower portion. With wood you know that will have to be done every year. Just thinking from experience.
I installed the chimney between the rafters so I had to install it between the next one from the wall to give me the required clearance. I also like to beable to just remove the clean out plug and run the brush down the chimney into a garbage bag to collect all the soot etc. Usually the stove pipe out the stove doesn't get built up with creosite.
 

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Thats the first time I seen "bumpers" required of course difference province different rules. They install those bumpers in front of our liquor stores as a detterent to smash and grabs.. I had to get my wood stove WETT certified a few years ago. No big deal other than the $200 I had to hand over for the certificate. Insurance co asked if stove and chimney were installed by a professional. I said yes...I consider myself a professional,,,just don't expand on the profession...

I can't tell from the picture but our stove had to be 18" off the ground, Underwriting demanded that.. My stove is a Pacific Energy zero clearance
 

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We have been burning dry wood in our fireplace for the last 15 years. Every year I run the brush straight down from the top to the damper, which is tight about the fire chamber. Out of 10' of flue I usually get about a 1/2 cup of black stuff. Every year I also have to clean the top of the burn chamber as it collects the soot and creosote. Chimney fires start at the bottom and burn up, not the other way around. Check with your fire dept and see what they say. Don't take my word for it. My opinion entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats the first time I seen "bumpers" required of course difference province different rules. They install those bumpers in front of our liquor stores as a detterent to smash and grabs.. I had to get my wood stove WETT certified a few years ago. No big deal other than the $200 I had to hand over for the certificate. Insurance co asked if stove and chimney were installed by a professional. I said yes...I consider myself a professional,,,just don't expand on the profession...

I can't tell from the picture but our stove had to be 18" off the ground, Underwriting demanded that.. My stove is a Pacific Energy zero clearance
I heard something about the 18" off the ground as well. I asked the person at the insurance company and was told that as long as I followed what was on the CSA label of the stove , I'd be OK. Anyway it is on a concrete floor so can't see why it would have to be 18" off the floor unless it was on a wooden floor in a house. Mine is 8" off the floor but if I have to raise it up another 10" then I'll make longer legs out of angle iron and bolt them onto the existing legs.Just have to wait and see if and what they demand me to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
We have been burning dry wood in our fireplace for the last 15 years. Every year I run the brush straight down from the top to the damper, which is tight about the fire chamber. Out of 10' of flue I usually get about a 1/2 cup of black stuff. Every year I also have to clean the top of the burn chamber as it collects the soot and creosote. Chimney fires start at the bottom and burn up, not the other way around. Check with your fire dept and see what they say. Don't take my word for it. My opinion entirely.
I've burnt wood in my house for 20 yrs and always cleaned the chimney monthly. Haven't burnt wood now since 06 when we installed geo thermal . Put the wood stove in the garage/shop to try and save a few $ on heating costs,not that the garage is going to be constanly heated only when I need more space and room to work on bigger stuff.
 

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I pondered a wood or pellet stove but had an old propane furnace that I hung from the ceiling.. Floor space is at a premium and frankly I'm getting to old to be messing with wood anymore.. It heats the shop up in about an hour and I usually only go through 100# a season.. I insulated the shop so good that any CO leak from any stove would become a hazard in short order. The nice thing about that is that once it"s warm it stays that way for quite a while in the winter. My CO alarm goes off whenever I start and run a car for 5 minutes!

Nice job on the install though! How about installing a Magic HEAT in the stove pipe? It would reclaim lost heat out the flue.. Just a thought..
 

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The reasoning I was given on raising the stove to 18" was because flammable fumes lay low. I don't write the rules...however my garage is fully insured against fires of any sort. When I built the garage I ran a circuit to rear of garage to operate gas furnace. We just like the wood stove...and in case of a winter Armageddon I have a alternate heat supply
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The reasoning I was given on raising the stove to 18" was because flammable fumes lay low. I don't write the rules...however my garage is fully insured against fires of any sort. When I built the garage I ran a circuit to rear of garage to operate gas furnace. We just like the wood stove...and in case of a winter Armageddon I have a alternate heat supply
well if that's the case then maybe I'll have to raise it up yet before I'am given the OK to use it.Hopefully they will get back to me in the next couple of day's. There calling for possible wet snow tonight so once it does snow we start cooling off pretty fast.
 

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well if that's the case then maybe I'll have to raise it up yet before I'am given the OK to use it.Hopefully they will get back to me in the next couple of day's. There calling for possible wet snow tonight so once it does snow we start cooling off pretty fast.
Better not anger your wife then!! :biting_nails:
 

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Several years ago when I was doing insurance inspections if a wood burning stove was on a combustable floor it had to be sitting on a fire proof material with air space between the material and the floor. We would recommend using brick turned on edge with the holes lined up to allow any heat build up to escape. Where your stove is on a concrete floor you should have no problem. Also any kind of heat re-claimer in the flue was a big no-no. Bug fire hazard. Lot of people use the OK. Lot of buildings went up in smoke due to them also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got a call from my insurance Broker on Monday late in the day. My stove is to close to the floor,I need to raise it up to at least 18". So I pull the stove pipes etc off,remove the fire bricks and the door. Then I took the stove into the shop and welded on some leg extensions. Put the stove back into its spot ,took a bunch of measurements and pics and took all the new pics etc; into the Broker. I still haven't heard back from them yet as to whether I can start using burning wood. In the meanwhile I'v gotten all the painting done and put started putting up some of the shelve's that I had. I was even able to clean everything off the floor of my shop and put it into the shelves today. I still have to bring in 2 pallets off stuff and try and find places for most of it.Some of course isn't going to be brought back into the garage.It sure is nice being able to be putting everything back together again. One thing for sure is that the weather has been holding up and today it was a fantastic day out.I was able to have all the doors open and let the shop and garage air out.Its helped lots as well in drying the paint etc: and getting rid of the humidity and smell in the garage. Hopefully tommoro I'll get everything back into place and then it'll be done.Of course I'll feel way better once I get the approval from the insurance company and can start burning wood.
 

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