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Hangin' with the cool kids
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a little project I am considering to be driven off the PTO shaft of my LGT Ford. Trouble is, the shaft turns in the wrong direction. I am considering using a belt in a figure 8 configuration with some sort of guide in the middle to keep the belt separated. I am sure the belt wont last as long as normal.
The pulleys will be about a foot apart.

Any thoughts on this?
 

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I have seen something similar on brush cutting mowers (Bachtold for instance) that run the belt like you suggest so I guess it would be possible/ and so many mule drives that run belts around a 90* corner but I'd be thinking where I could come up woth some kind of gearbox setup to reverse direction, that would seem a bit less cumbersome than what you are suggesting.
 

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If you've got room to double back over a mule drive at either end that's probably your best bet.

Another thing you could do:

Your belts will be 1/2 turned where they cross at the center. You could place a pair of idler pulleys, each side of center, to deflect the belt a bit where it crosses itself.
 

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A lot of the older farm equipment used crossed belts that way. Usually the pulleys were further apart. You won't be out much if it don't work but don't use a coged belt.
 
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Hangin' with the cool kids
Ontario, Canada
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A lot of the older farm equipment used crossed belts that way. Usually the pulleys were further apart. You won't be out much if it don't work but don't use a coged belt.
Why not?....then it could make engine sounds like when I used to put playing cards in my bike spokes....... :D

Actually, what I want to do is mount the auger section of a walk behind snow blower to the rear of my tractor. That way I will have a blade on the front and blower on the back for when I need to move the snowbanks back.
Just an idea I am toying with
 

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DR. Bolens
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They key is to run the belts so they dont touch at the center, with the top of the line Kevlar belts I dont see why you couldnt make it work , here's some crossed belts on my Bolens deck
 

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Hangin' with the cool kids
Ontario, Canada
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
They key is to run the belts so they dont touch at the center, with the top of the line Kevlar belts I dont see why you couldnt make it work , here's some crossed belts on my Bolens deck
Trouble with mine is that the 2 pulleys would be on the same plane, not at 90 degrees

Was thinking about the chain idea too......will see when I start to piece this together
 

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Electric Tractors
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I did it on a little lawn tractor that I converted to electric, a fig 8, the belt does rub on itself, so far it hasn't failed after a few yrs of occasional use. BUT not much power is going through it, a snow blower is gonna use a lot more power. ???
 

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Tractorholic
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Get your self a blower like something off a craftsman and run it under the machine off the mule like it was pointing out the front , but out the back, no changes needed it will work as it should. You just need to fit it is all.
 

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Look at the picture Bolens1000 posted. Now imagine the pulley on the deck isn't the destination - but an idler. With another half turn beyond it going to your driven pulley you'd be in business. Problem is your drive and driven pulley are so close together that idler would have to be a very small diameter or the belt angles would be too steep.

Now instead of one center idler imagine two - one above the other. The belt runs out over one and back over the other. Now you can move their shafts away from the belt until the belt almost touches as it passes itself. You've created an almost 0 diameter center idler. You're also going to want to angle them a bit so the belt runs straight through them. That's the idea I was trying to propose.

I threw together a sketch - hope it helps clear up what I'm saying. Those idlers just push the belt a little bit - so it passes itself. In fact, you might only need one to do the job, put it on the slack side.
 

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the homeless tractor hoarder
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Chopperhead's post [#7] has the best option. You can run chain or belt. if you run belt wrap the belt farther around the driven pulley than his diagram shows to get more friction. Also with that setup you can make adjustment to the idler to tighten your belt as needed where-as the standard figure 8 setup with guides may not allow for belt adjustment.

Good Luck

P.S. I still like Ray's idea better... move south, far south! :wave:
 

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If you do the chain drive you need 2 idlers, to have the chain contact more of the driven sprocket.

Drive sprocket around 1 idler to front side of driven around 2nd idler back around drive sprocket
If you do the chain drive you need 2 idlers, to have the chain contact more of the driven sprocket.

Drive sprocket around 1 idler to front side of driven around 2nd idler back around drive sprocket
I agree to ensure better wrap around the driven sprocket, a larger idler is required. which may demand a second idler. It depends on the actual installation.
 

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Old, but not dead -- yet!
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Chopperhead's post [#7] has the best option. You can run chain or belt. if you run belt wrap the belt farther around the driven pulley than his diagram shows to get more friction. Also with that setup you can make adjustment to the idler to tighten your belt as needed where-as the standard figure 8 setup with guides may not allow for belt adjustment.

Good Luck

P.S. I still like Ray's idea better... move south, far south! :wave:
I disagree with the use of a belt as you describe, as the back (flat side) of the belt will have to be against a flat driven pulley.

To transfer the torque needed to run a blower, the "vee" of the belt should ride in a "vee" pulley.
 
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