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Inspired by 29chev's idea of fixing the drive collar tab using JB weld I decided to have a go at it sooner than later since I found out a few days ago the 1050 drive collar I installed on my 850 is actually for a bigger driveshaft (duh!).

I went to the hardware store and picked up a round 3/4 wood stock and metal JB weld.

I cut the wood stock to proper length and inserted it through the drive pin hole, cut out a thick enough piece of cardboard to use as backfill in order to have somewhat of a slot for the locking pin and massaged the JB weld as best as I could to reshape it as a locking tab.

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Let it cure for a couple of hours and gently cut the excess JB weld and cardboard using a small metal saw, I then drilled out the wood stock from the pin hole.

Once the wood stock was out I just needed to refinish the material so filed it down using a hand file and reformed the pin slot using the saw. And finally 400 grit sandpaper to polish it off.

Result are pretty nice, just need to see how it holds up!

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A Little Off Plumb
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Nice repair - very nice work. It is amazing how well JB weld bonds to things - let it cure for a day and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If that works, I've got 5 to do. Thanks, Rick
I hear you, if this works I'm going to have 4 spares for the 1050's!

For those with access to a MIG it's probably still the more preferred way to fix it but takes more time, JB weld is easy to file and cut.

Total time spent on this repair is less than an hour if you exclude the curing time (which is said to be one hour), so you could repair the drive collar without having to remove it.
 

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I hear you, if this works I'm going to have 4 spares for the 1050's!

For those with access to a MIG it's probably still the more preferred way to fix it but takes more time, JB weld is easy to file and cut.

Total time spent on this repair is less than an hour if you exclude the curing time (which is said to be one hour), so you could repair the drive collar without having to remove it.
I have a good old MIG but, I'd be afraid to try that. Good Luck, Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finally got a bit more time to finish this project. I worked a bit more on shaping the ear to make it look more like an original, primed and painted it.
I installed it on the tractor and drove around and everything seems to hold up good. Time will tell.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444512103.527043.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444512117.461544.jpg
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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For those others doing this, and if this doesn't hold, there's enough metal where they break off to allow drilling a 3/32" or so hole into the center of the broken area to drive in a steel pin which will give the JB a lot more strength. One pin on each side would really give it more rigidity. Your job on this one really looks nice!
 

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I tried it after the original suggestion... mine broke off when I tried to remove the cardboard. I'll try it again with the steel pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You need to have a perfectly clean surface for the JB weld to bond properly, I had my hub soaking in alcohol and cleaned with a toothbrush - I then wire brushed it to take any residue film off.

I like the idea of pining it, I was also thinking of having a metal facing to the JB weld using a cutup 3/4" washer.

May try these ideas on the next hub I fix.
 
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