[jdcrawler]

With the steering box mounted in place, I can now figure out just how the steering arm will fit.
Here I'm turning down the area of the pinion shaft for the arm to fit onto it.

The excess part of the shaft is cut off and the arm it mounted onto it.

The drag link need to be extended about 7 inches. I've cut off the one end and have turned down a piece of 5/8 threaded rod to fit into it.

The threaded rod is brazed and I'm going to drill and tap one end of the piece of 7/8 diameter steel rod to screw onto it.

the other end of the 7/8 steel rod is drilled out to fit over the drag link. This is welded onto it and then it is primed.
NOTE .. the curve in the drag link.

The drag link is mounted in place to complete the steering.

This is why there is a curve in the drag link. It allows the wheels to be turned to the right a little more.

If I had built this tractor myself, I certainly wouldn't have used this style of steering.
I would have had a pitman arm extending straight out about 6 inches from the front of the tractor.
Then I would have mounted a bell-crank with 6 inch arms on the front corner of the frame with one arm pointing forward and the other arm pointing out to the side.
The drag link from the steering box would have attached to the arm on the bell-crank sticking out to the side.
Another drag link would go from the forward arm on the bell-crank to the steering arm in the center.
This would allow the front wheels to be able to turn even farther then they are able to now without having to have a bend in the drag link.

However, the tractor was built with these extra long pitman arms on the front and on the steering box with just the one drag link. It is noticeably a part of the original design so I want to keep it if I can.

 

[jdcrawler]

The mount for the pivot shaft for the brake and clutch pedals is bolted to the underside of the frame.

I'm using model-A pedals and they had to be straightened out to fit the tractor.
The stock model-A pedals are on the left and the modified pedals are on the right.

Here's how the look on the tractor.

On a side note. ........
Remember the Simplex Servi-Cycle that I built to put up for sale ?
Here it is all packed up and ready to be shipped out to Seattle Washington tomorrow.

 

[jdcrawler]

I have been hunting for a buggy seat for the tractor about two months now.
Any that I could afford their asking price have been so far away that the shipping cost was outrages.
The ones that were close enough for me to go pick up have all been priced too high to start with.

This one just showed up on ebay today with the asking price that I can afford and it is located only about 60 miles from where my daughter lives in Ohio.
She just bought it for me and will bring it with her the next time she comes down for a visit.

 

[jdcrawler]

I pressed in new bushings in both pedals.

This is the outside lever for the cross shaft on the clutch linkage.

It fits into the pivot bracket that is mounted thru the frame.

A short linkage rod connects it to the clutch pedal.

I did not have a piece of round stock large enough for what I need to make the hub for the lever on the inside of the cross shaft. So I turned down two pieces of pipe so they fit inside each other. Then I fit them over a piece of 1 inch bar stock.
I drilled a hole down thru the pieces and pressed a pin into it with the outside of the pin braised on both ends.
The center is drilled out and reamed to fit onto the cross shaft.

The lever is pressed onto the hub and welded in place.

this is positioned on the crass shaft and a spot of weld holds everything together. Then I drilled and tapped a 5/16-18 threaded hole so half of it is on the crass shaft and the other half is on the hub.
With a set screw threaded into the hole, it is just like a key to keep the hub from rotating around the cross shaft and the threads keep it from sliding along the shaft.

The cross shaft is mounted back in place and a square head set screw is tightened down into the 5/16 threaded hole.

The linkage arm is then made up to go from the inside lever up to the clutch throw-out arm.
This is the position of the pedal with the clutch engaged.

And with the clutch arm pulled all the way back as far as it will go.
The clutch pedal will only have to move about two thirds of this distance for the clutch to work.